Grand Prix GT

yes

the brake caliper has to fit into the wheel

a smaller wheel may fit the lugs but wont go over the disk and caliper (or drum)

the nut that holds the wiper arm on came loose. just needs tightened.

Consult a generic torque specification chart based on the size and grade of the of the bolts (top of bolt will have that info on it).

MY WIFE SAYS 17 GALLONS,AND IF SHE SAYS THAT IT'S TRUE!

I had this problem on a 1989 Dodge Caravan. My local mechanic said Chrysler was having a problem with the grounding of the windshield wiper motors. He installed a grounding wire from the body of the motor to the frame of the car and solved the problem. I have no idea whether your problem is like that, but it bears looking into.

Paxton superchargers probably makes something for this.

fast.

You can't its part of the stereo. If you remove the radio then you remove the theft detterent. If you mean how do I reset the theft detterent then you will need the reset code. Consult the owners manual or go to a GM dealer.

Make sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid Make sure brake is fully released--pull on pas if it foot type or push down on handle type Remove wires from switch either under foot pad or under handle

Turn the key to "run"

pump the accelerate pedal 3 times within 5 seconds

wait 5 seconds

light should flash - meaning it is resetting the opil light

cycle the key off then on, you're good to go

Possible bad trnsmission filter. Replace filter. HAve you checked the fluid level? or added the wrong fluid?

Below the alternator - driver's side.

generally, most passenger cars tire pressure is @ 32 psi. So 32 psi.

It's behind the big bracket with the water lines running through it and behind all the belts. Pulling the alternator will give you room to work. BE CAREFUL pulling the bracket off! It breaks easily. It's behind the big bracket with the water lines running through it and behind all the belts. Pulling the alternator will give you room to work. BE CAREFUL pulling the bracket off! It breaks easily.

Hey, I have a 1998 Grand Prix GTP this is my experience:

1. Its not as easy as many make out.

2. Prep work will save your A**.

3. Addco makes a nice kit for around $160 US on Summit Racing.

Tools needed - Wrenches 15mm, 13MM, 18MM. Sockets : 15MM shallow, 18MM deep, Hammer, Wire brush, Grease.

Jack the car up and put it on jack stands, this can be a little difficult if you live in the rust belt like I do, where the pinch strip is almost rotted away. Then put the jack under the front support for safety. Pull both front wheels 3/4 " to get plastic lug covers off, and 3/4" (or 19MM) to get the lugs off. now take your wire brush and clean the tie rod bolts throughly, until they are shiney clean and use the 18mm to back the nuts off, if they start to spin, put it back on and clean some more. If no matter what you do the ball joint spins in the tie rod, cut the ball joint off of it (I used a angle grinder with a wheel) and break the jam nut loose then count the threads to keep your alignment straight. If you get it off with out cutting the end its much easier. If you managed to get the joints off - if they are original they should lift right off - maybe a few taps of the hammer and they come right up, if they have grease fittings you may need a pickle fork to separate the joint from the spindle.

Now if you got the kit I suggested it comes with links, so you can cut the old ones off, just because its a pain to try and pull them apart once they've been on as long as the car's been in service. Again Cut off wheel, sawzall maybe, torch only if you really know what you're doing because its close to the CV joint and ABS wires. If you don't have acces to any of this stuff you can try and break the bolt free and it might snap or just spin off. It's 13MM (might be 14, I did mine yesterday)- cutting it off is deffinately the way to go. You can use the hammer to pop the bolt back through the hole in the lower a frame, it takes a little work to get it to pop out because the rubber bushings weld themselves to the bolt.

Now you can get to the fun part, getting the sway bar hold down bolts out. They are 15 MM, you can use the shallow socker for three out of four bolts. All but the drivers side rear bolt. These will fight all the way out so a little PB blaster penetrating oil helps. but it is slow going. The last one, is a real problem - I used a 15mm box end up side down so it I could work it back and forth and it took 10 minutes but I got it out without dropping the sub frame. If you can get the hold downs off the bar it will make removal easier but if you slowly and gently snake it by you can get it out. no need to remove brake calipers or rotors or anything else.

Installation is the oposite of removal with a few tips:

Clean the hold down bolts with a wire brush until they shine, then coat them with antisieze. Then clean the subframe where the hold downs mount with break clean, finally thread the bolts back in the holes to make sure they thread in clean. This helps with cross threading problems that are common on these jobs.

Grease all of the bushings inside and out before installing them. it will eliminate squeaks. Push the bar in first and then put the hold downs on when it is in the car. it makes life so much easier.

Now that you have your hold downs in place thread the bolts down- you have to force the bracket down over the bushing to get enough so you can get some threads on the bolts. Before you put a wrench on it make sure you get at least a couple of threads into it. use the wrench for more feel, if it binds up at all stop and go back to make sure everything is right. When you have all four bolts caught stop and go onto the links.

Each link should have the bolt head on the bottom and then go like this: I greased each poly bushing with all purpose grease while putting it together and then wiped off the excess when I was done.

Bolt--Washer with cup facing up - Rubber bushing with flat side down---Lower A frame---Bushing Flat side UP----Washer with cup side DOWN----Metal bushing---Washer with Cup Up----Bushing with Flat side down----Sway bar-----Bushing flat side UP-----Washer with cup DOWN---Lock nut.

Both sides are like this, and then once you have them together go back and tighten up the hold downs. Go back and forth on each bolt in the hold down to tighten them evenly all the way down. Then tighten the links until you can just turn the bushings by hand. If you greased them, it will be difficult - but use a paper towel and you'll be able to feel it. Do not over tighten these until they buldge out, it can wreck the bar.

Once you have everything back together and tight, go back and check it all again. Then put the wheels back on it and take it for a test ride, it should feel great. Mine does. The OEM bar I pulled off was fine for a daily driver but was cracked clean through on both sides, Its hollow tubing that is crushed down and welded. the Addco bar is solid steel and 2mm thicker. I should never have to change it again. I'm saving for the rear bar next.

open the fuse panel to expose the fuses. If there is a location guide or chart of fuses, remove the one labeled "drl." If there is no chart, look in the owners manual, it is listed with a diagram. I have found this to be the easiest way on a 97 model. On a 97 there is two fuses that control drl, one is a shared fuse and one is only drl. Make sure you pull the one that is strictly drl if yours has it.

Maybe occassional problems with the fuel pump at start up.

It hasn't got one.

You can find them at your local Pontiac dealers. They are really cheap.

Buy a car with a bigger motor

where is the antenna located on a 1999 pontiac grand prx gt

This is a common problem with GM vehicles of this time. More than likely your ignition cylinder lock is bad. The problem being that, technically you need to be able to turn the key to remove the lock from the ignition swithc. Pickup a service manual for $20.00 from the autoparts store, it will explain the removal and installation. Auto Zone, should have the parts in stock, look at the ignition cylinder lock and the switch and see how they go together, it will give you an idea of how to remove the cylinder without damaging the ignition switch, since the normal method wont work here. Here is a way around removing the lock if the key will not turn, I used it on a 99 Grand AM, it may work for the Grand Prix, not sure. If you just drill out the semi-rectangular shaped area behind the retainer pin you can break the lever style spring on the lock cylinder and the retainer pin will come out allowing you to remove the lock cylinder(make sure to leave the area immediately (approximately ¼") behind the retainer pin so you can reinstall the new lock cylinder). Once you are done you will need to reprogram the passlock system. Google for Passlock 2 reprogran, reset, etc. Good Luck!

NO! They didn't supercharge them until 97' GTP.

The top engine offering that year was the 3.4 DOHC engine. It produced 200 hp with an automatic and 210 hp when paired with the 5-Speed manual.

Actually your somewhat right... yes no such thing as a 94 gtp..gtp started in 97 but in 1994 its has a 3.1 SOHC v6 producing 160hp @ 5200RPM and 185lb torque @ 4000RPM on both coupe and sedan. Also in 1997 the grand prix was NOT available in a 3.4 DOHC ( no gtp is a DOHC ) it was available in a 3.1 naturally aspirated v6 160hp @ 5200RPM in the SE. The GT coupe is another option and that is a 3.8l v6 SOHC producing 195hp @ 5200RPM 230lb torque @ 4000RPM. Then the GTP again 3.8l SOHC v6 with Gen lll M90 supercharger stock 3.8 pully. boost stock is 6psi. 240hp @ 5200RPM and 280lb torque @ 3600RPM. and one final thing all grand prixs from the early 90's up to 2003...THERE WAS NEVER AN OPTIONAL 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Closest the grand prix ever has been was paddle shifters on the 2004-2006 gtp comp g models.

Also i own a 1999 GTP dyno'd 298 WHP @ 6150RPM 346lb torque @ 4400RPM...

1/4 time--- 13.2 street tires 93 octane pump fuel 11psi (roughly $2000-$3000) to get a GTP to really perform but the GTP is a very impressive car..Nobody will believe its abilities...buy 1...work on it...prove em all wrong ;)

No the guy at the top was right they did make gtp in 94, the gtp had the 3.4 and you could get a 5 speed manual, but to answer the question no the 94's were not super charged, that didnt start till they put the 3800's in them in 97, but there are no manual 3800 powered cars, but do your research there are plenty of pre-97 gtp's and very few but some pre-97 5-speed cars

k44pgWhat color is the smoke, is it blue or is it white. If it's blue it's burning oil , if it's white, the mufflers have water in them from condin sation. Simple fix just drill small holes in the bottom of the mufflers. What is happening, the mufflers get hot , boil the water inside, result smoke. I know this because ,I own a 1990 turbo, and it happened to me. Hope this helps you out. Wal170 @ aol.com