Grand Prix GT

every 25,000 miles or every five oil changes which ever comes first.

The Name

generally you back up the spring loaded tensioner enough to remove the belt --then just put on a new belt but and there is a big but there are several GM 3.8 engines ---one of which requires the removal of the front motor mount which means the engine has to be supported while you are changing the belt---be aware there is always a diagram of the belt routing under the hood someware

Make sure the nut that holds the bearing in place is properly adjusted.When you tighten it the wheel should spin free but you should no be able to wiggle it.

Remove wheel Loosen flexible brake line Remove mounting bolts (2) usually either TORX or ALLEN Slide out Remove and Plug brake line Be sure to use NEW copper gaskets upon installation

Your power steering fluid may be low. The tank is near the battery. your belt may need changed they go bad around 60 to 70 thousand miles or it could just need tightend

every 75,000 miles or every 60,000 miles if your driving is considered "severe service."

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology.

Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

Is there a (!)(P) with words BRAKE above them on dash? Not abs...is your brake fluid low...also theres a shift lock switch next to the shifter pull off plastic cap apply brake while incerting something to ingage it then shift from park....it should be looked at but some of the grand prixs have issues with even the ignition swith...check all your fuses...especially break lights get a fluids flush and change....has your horn..randomly honked at you while driving? And are you passed due on a system check up? The computers do system things to warm you before the big problem

Motor Toon Grand Prix happened in 1994.

65L

Find the thermostat housing. There should be an air bleeding screw located on the top side of the housing. As you add water to the radiator open the screw until water runs without the sign of air bubbles.

5w30

5w30

It's a job where you'll find a lot of sharp edges if your vehicle is similar to the 98 Grand Prix I replaced the fan on. First, check both of the fuses. There's a separate fuse for high speed that turned out to be blown in my vehicle (now I have a spare fan :-)). Since I'm not working in the same model year, all I can be is general about how to do it but ... First disconnect the battery cable (move the front seats all the way back before this step if they're electric) and have a light handy. If the fan isn't mounted in the engine well (again, I did this on a Grand Prix three years older than yours and don't know for sure) ... Remove the trim/sound insulation panels from above the footwells and, I suspect, the glove compartment also. You should be able to see the fan motor once you get under the dash (on your back with your rear on support just outside the passenger side of the car and your head and shoulders in the footwell). I don't recall exactly but the motor flange is held on with hex screws, either 7 or 8 mm. There are three or four of them, once they're out and you have the wiring off, the fan should be loose enough that you can remove it. In my case, the assembly was tricky to get in and out of the housing due to plenty of wiring etc. in the same area. Note also that the fan isn't mounted horizontally but is tipped towards the firewall and down. This may make it hard to spot the motor when you start looking for it. The screws are easier to remove if you have a 1/4" drive socket with a u-joint and extensions that'll let you keep your hands away from sharp edges and wiring retainers. That's all I'm going to say other than to mention that Haines Manuals are worth the investment if you're going to keep the car long enough to use a set of tires :-). If the fan is in the engine well, the steps are similar but you can get at it standing up but will have other things (wiring harness) in the way. Check both fuses first. One may be under the hood.

4 by 10 pioneer makes a some 4 by 10 if you wanted to buy some better than stock speakers

Where is the ac drain tube for 2004 grand prix

It is under the vacuum brake booster on the drivers side. Gm manual calls for

removal of the booster to ease access. Alot of work for a 5 dollar part.

1.3 hours a side for labor. price for parts. 1.0 hours for alignment.

Yes

It will have R134a...which you can buy without a license at any parts store. At the very least buy a recharge hose with a gauge so you can tell when you've got the right amount in it. It would be a good idea to check the system for leaks before putting a bunch of freon in it only to have it leak right back out.

* I take it you mean you hear some sort of hissing sound, and it may or may not be when you first turn your car on you get the noise. It might be your radiator plug that has a leak in it. But it could also be the exaust system and/or catalytic converter is plugged.

If it's neither of those though, you might want to check your tire just in case.

You need to purchase a Haynes Manual so you can see what to do to keep from breaking something.jd

Usually against the passenger firewall

in the rocker arm cover

Remove the old filter. Apply a coat of oil to the gasket of the new filter. Screw the filter on and tighten it 3/4 turn after it makes contact with the mounting surface. Caution: (Tighten it 3/4 turn, no more, no less!) I recommend you use an AC/Delco filter, which is an excellent filter and is the OEM filter on your Pontiac.

your key has a chip that keeps it running in order to install button start it needs to bypass this so its deffinitly an ignition problem your key has a chip that keeps it running in order to install button start it needs to bypass this so its deffinitly an ignition problem