Honda Accord DX

In some vehicles the fan does stay on for alittle bit after the engine has been shut down... if it stays on for along time and wont go off then it might be the fan relay. does the fan eventually switch off by itself?if it does the fan is working corectly.it stays on till the temp is pulled back down to the temp setting.if it does not eventually shut off by it self, you need to have the fan thermostat checked

USALLY it's because the Transmission cooler that's located inside the RADIATOR HAS DEVELOPED A LEAK.The COOLING system & TRANSMISSION need 2 b FLUSHED after the RADIATOR is REPLACED -- OR BYPASS the RADIATOR TRANS cooler & put on an EXTERNAL cooler INFRONT of the existing Radiator.

It sounds like the head gasket is leaking.

I just had the same problem. It started with noticing just a thin layer of light brown foam when I removed the radiator cap. There was no foam or anything else wrong with the engine oil or trans fluid. My mechanic took a quick look at it and said to just keep an eye on it. I checked it every week with no change noticed, then sort of forgot about it for a month. When it started to shift a little rougher than usual, I checked the trans fluid again. This time the fluid was a nasty color of rusty brown and very opaque. Apparently it is not that uncommon to get a leak between the radiator coolant and either the engine oil or the trans fluid. Just speaking from my own experience, I believe it is more common to have the engine oil leak (bad head gasket or cracked head) in which case there will be obvious white/brown foam in the engine (on the oil cap) when it is checked. The trans fluid is under higher pressure than the radiator coolant so most of the flow is from the trans to the radiator, but as the system cools down, it can (and does) flow the other way. It just takes a little longer to notice the problem. Since radiator fluid can destroy an automatic transmission and trans fluid can destroy the seals in the radiator system it is very important to figure out what�s going on as quickly as possible...and NOT �just keep an eye on it�....won�t be going back to that shop. My van (a 94 Pontiac Transport) is in the shop now getting a new radiator (has two internal trans coolers inside of the radiator), and when that�s done I�m driving it directly to have all the trans fluid flushed. With any luck, it will start to shift smoother ...if not, it will have been a VERY expensive lesson. Hope this helps.

On the Mazda B3000 1994 there are four screws. Two Phillips screws on the outside glass and two Phillips inside on the panel. Loosen these four screws and the entire assembly will come out.

1) Is the body in good shape? (No rust, etc) 2) Do you like the car? 3) Has it been reliable? (It's a Honda, so it must have been) If yes, then replace the engine (but then I'm a car nut). If you don't want to put that much money into the car by rebuilding the motor, you can always get a motor from the junkyard.

Well somone correct me if im wrong you need a new tranny. Considering you have to skip to 1st you mise well get a manual.

NOTE:To gain access to the alternator it may be necessary to disconect the left drive shaft from the steering knuckle * Disconnect the negative battery cable.Raise vehicle support it securely on jackstands and remove the left driveaxle from the steering knuckle * Detach the wire harness from the alternator * Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and pivot bolt nut then detach the drivebelt * Remove the adjusting and pivot bolts and separate the alternator from the engine.If necessary remove the upper and lower mount brackets * Installation is reverse of removal

I assume you are speaking of your CHECK ENGINE Light. Since you are driving a 1989 GM - it could be a bunch of things. Try this. Disconnect BOTH battery Cables. Touch them together for 10 seconds. Reconnent the cables to the battery. This can sometimes reset the computer. But, you'll have to reprogram the time and favorites on your Radio, etc... If, after doing this, the light comes back on. You'll need to take it to a servicer who can determine which code is causing the light to come on. Then you can get it fixed. Hope this helps. I don't know if this applies to your problem as my year of make is newer (2004) but, IF your Gas cap is NOT 'Clicked' tightly, it CAN cause the "Check Engine" red light to come on...and it will stay on until the cap is properly setin place. I hope it is this easy. Good Luck. LOL on your first answer.....first off, a grand marquis is not a gm. and on this model of vehicle there are 2 engine lights. one says "engine" the other says "check engine".......in your manual for the ccar, it tells you that this light will come in if the oil pressure is too low, or coolant is low and engine is getting too hot. this is a factual answer lol. this guy above cracks me up saying a mercury is a gm product...its a ford dude. haha

the timing on a '95 buick is set eletronicly. this car has no distributor, instead has an "waste spark" ignition with 3 coils that fire on command from an ignition module that the three coils are plugged into. if it is the timing belt you seek to replace then i suggest you go to your local library and look at the appropriate maintance manuel for that car. Probably a "Motors or Chilton" manuel would cover this proceedure. good luck

Water Pump is behind timing belt cover and is driven by the timing belt.... back side of engine (drivers Side)

Go to your local hardware store.... ask were the speaker wire is... voila

If it is the same type of car than yes

Found it in an 05 four door behind the driver's side kick panel. It's in the same block as the fuses, but hidden by the kick panel. I had to take out a few other trim pieces to get to it, but it's there.

The vehicle needs to be up on a lift and level, then from underneath, locate the small plug on the passenger side of the transmission case, remove the plug and the fluid should be right at that level. Add more from the top fill cap if needed.

Yes! They are the same lug pattern.

Pull out the 7.5 back up fuse in the fuse box and re-insert. If light still comes back on then something is going on and you need to check the ECU for the issue. It will flash a code indicating the problem. If there is no issue the light should stay off after the fuse is taken out and re-inserted.

My experience has led me AWAY from Slim-Jims, I have found that an air wedge and a long, rigid metal rod (old antenna, etc.) to hit the lock button works best. Less than a min. for entry for me. I swear by the air wedge now.

A 1986 Honda Accord has a 2.0 litre four cylinder engine

Yes. It isn't too much of a job, but if you haven't ever pulled one apart you might want to take it to a professional. If it's rear drum brakes, pull the wheel, remove the drum, drive the broken stud out of the axle, put the replacment back in and use some washers or other spacers to give you enough space to tighten the lug nut on to pull the stud into the axle. If it's rear disk brakes, the process is much the same but there may be some more effort to get to the axle.

You have to remove the back seat to get to the access cover located over the fuel tank. Once you can get to the carpet between the trunk and seats, you will find a cut-out in the floor. You take it off and there is the access cover bolted on.

Once you remove that you should have fairly decent access to the top of the fuel tank.

The Fuel pump is a "golden-ish" colored circle on the top with wires going to it (I think). You have to unhook it and unscrew it, then drop the new one in. You may want to check the repair manual (can be downloaded from web) to see if there are any extra steps aside from just dropping it in and re-screwing/hooking it back in.

Then you just have to put the cover, carpet, and seat back in.

Note: Try not to break the plastic posts in the seat; makes it harder to put it back in and you might feel bad about it. =P

It was a pain in the ass when I did it the first time. But now I might have to do it again.

You should also check the main Relay located under the dash (behind the fuse box) to see if it has worn out/doesn't work properly; before ruling that the pump is bad.

Also check the fuel filters since when they're clogged you won't get good fuel response.

I still have my originals on (210k miles) and Im being plagued by a "carburetor" problem that is not the carb [hard to find a Honda mechanic that actually knows anything bout these 3G super-awesome accords].

Go to the auto parts store and buy a door handle removal tool. They are less than $5. Slip the tool under the door handle from the knob side. Hold a rag against the door panel opposite the tool. The tool will pop off a retainer clip. Then just pull the handle off the splined shaft. You can buy a replacement handle at the auto parts store or the dealer.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

This was bugging me for a while then I remembered it's the middle section of "The Only Living Boy in New York" by Simon and Garfunkel. It was in the "Garden State" OST.

THE SONG IS "BE PATIENT" By Smidi. It is beautiful-all instrumental.

3.5 Litres / 3.7 qt

Oil drain plug 30 ft lbs

There should be a yellow label under the hood. Find it, and then check to see if it says "r12" (old) or "r134" (new) if you cannot find the label there are aluminum tubes that carry refrigerant through the system. In 2 places on those tubes there are fittings used to service the system. remove one of the caps. if you see threads on the outside of the fitting it is an r12 system, if you see a smooth surface with a lip it has r134