Honda Odyssey

The 2014 Honda Odyssey has a 9 ft. 10.1 in. (118.1 in.) wheel base.

First, turn the ignition key to the "On" position. (Engine doesn't have to be running.) With the dash display showing the current oil level, press and hold the odometer button until the display flashes. Release the button, and then press and HOLD again until the display resets and shows "Oil Life 100%."

If a bearing is bad, You will hear a whining noise from the bad bearing. Try to listen if it is up front or back. The noise will get louder as you go faster. Turn left and right to determine what side the bad bearing is on. If you turn left and the noise gets louder, the right bearing is bad, turn right and the noise gets louder, the left bearing is bad.

No, not unless you want to. The Honda dealer just uses a "bulk generic" oil. They don't even use Honda oil. Whatever they can purchase in 55 gallon drums for as cheap as they can purchase it, is what they buy.

Do use an original Honda filter though. It has an anti-drainback valve in it which keeps more oil in the motor to help prevent all the oil from going back into the oil pan when the motor is not running.

The Cabin Filter affects the quality of the air in the interior of the vehicle (cabin). For some strange reason, the Odyssey has a smell, a strange odor, more like a musty smell you can eliminate by changing the Cabin Filter. Or, you can simply keep the button for "recirculated air" pressed to stop fresh air from coming in. As such, no air will pass the filter to enter your vehicle.

The 2013 Honda Odyssey has a 3 yr./ 36000 mi. basic warranty.

The lug nut size for a 2005 Honda Odyssey EX is 7/8". Lug nuts are used to secure an automobile's wheel to its axle.

It's time to change the oil.

check your glovebox, there should be sticker with a 5 digits

fuel filter is located in the engine bay, near the back firewall side. You need a very long extension (8"-16") and a "crows foot" type open end flare wrench. Don't use a regular open-end or you will strip the nut.

This is difficult to reach, but not impossible with the two mentioned tools.

The 2013 Honda Odyssey's engine produces 250 ft-lbs. @ 4800 rpm.

Call your Honda dealer be ready to show prof of ownership and get the serial # off the back of your radio.

The bulbs in the middle on my 94 Saturn went out one a time, you don't have to remove a cover, they are accessible by lifting the trunk lid. There are like 5 of them they just pop in and out.

Posts elsewhere indicated that this worked on both 2000 and 2001 Honda Odyssey vans.

Suggestion #1

1.) Disable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

2.) Remove the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

3.) Manually open and close both sliding doors.

4.) Restore the power door fuses located under the front passenger leg area.

5.) Enable the power door switch on the left dashboard.

6.) Try opening the sliding doors.

Suggestion #2

Remove fuse #13 (clock) for 30 seconds or more from the passenger side fusebox. This will reset the door and the clock.

From Purchasepete - Suggestion #2 - has worked for me, on 2 different 2001 Odysseys !

Suggestion #2 Works fine (and is so SIMPLE!) for 2000 Odysseys too.

The no.1 solution works for my Odyssey 2000, except for me the number of the fuse was 12 instead of 13... Maybe because i have the Canadian version of the van... Thanks a lot!

Lesim14

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Addendum from Michael Bates:

Using suggestion #2 above and another post, I reset the doors on our 2001 Odyssey EX. Our symptoms were that the sliding door warning light was on, and the right power sliding door would not operate at all -- no movement, no motor sounds, nothing. We had to turn off the power sliding door main switch and operate the doors manually. Here is the procedure I followed:

1. Power Sliding Door main switch OFF and ignition OFF. Doors are shut.

2. Remove fuse #13 from the passenger side fuse panel. Leave out for at least 30 seconds.

3. Reinstall fuse #13.

4. Open both sliding doors manually to the full open position.

5. Ignition switch to ON.

6. Power Sliding Door main switch ON.

7. Press and hold left door CLOSE switch until the door is fully closed.

8. Repeat for the right door.

At this point the doors operated correctly, from handle, panel switches, and remote switches.

Up under the dash left of the steering column. Black box with a plug going to it. Mine wasn't mounted it was kinda hanging. But my pump was good relay and fuse. I am still trying to find out what's wrong. I was told there is a ground relay for pump in the ecm

In Arlington, Texas you will find The Texas Running Center which is fantastic. Several Olympic teams have trained there and they are so much more than running. They understand that running is a lifestyle and tailors everything around that.

check the freon and cabin air filter

Easiest thing I've ever done!!!!! Take off the wheels and use a 1/2" closed end wrench or socket to break the 2 bolts holding the rotors to the wheel. Be sure to be loostening the 1/2" bolts and not the smaller bolt that holds the pad support to the caliper. Take the bolts out and the caliper lifts right off. Remove the pads and take a 12" C clamp and tighten it in the piston cavity and over the the caliper body to push the piston in. (The rear on my 02 pushed in but some models may screw in on the rear only. Auto parts stores let you use the tool for a simple deposit if yours screws in. You will be able to tell if it is the screw in type if the piston cavity has notches on each side.) After depressing the piston put the pads on and put the caliper back on the rotor. Watch how the pads go on as you take them off because there is a little spring that goes a certain way on one pad on each wheel. (Also some replacement pads have small spacers that stick to the back of the pad...follow instructions in box) I did all 4 tonight for the first time and it only took me 1 1/2 hours...start to finish... including getting tools out and putting everything away. Tools needed: 1/2" closed end wrench 1/2" socket, 3" extension, socket wrench(I used an air wrench but really didn't have to) 12" C clamp flat blade screwdriver...medium size (used to pry apart pads) large hammer (used to tap on wrench to break bolts loose) jack, jackstands, tire wrench (air hammer if you have one) Cost for the best ....ceramic $21.99 rear/$34.99 front. Hope this helps you......tom.weekley@uaw-gm.org *EDIT* FYI bolts for the caliper are 12mm and bolts for the pad support bracket are 13mm. 1/2 is close but can strip the head if the bolt is really tight.

The filter is located behind the lower glove box. You must first partially remove the lower glove box.

1. Open the lower glove box and remove the contents. If you look at the left side of the box you will notice a damper arm lug, this slows the box from just falling out. Remove the round cover from the end of the damper on the left side of the box. The cover slides off with some effort toward you.

2. Then you will need to remove 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box. After these have been removed just maneuver the glovebox out of the existing location.

3. You should now be looking at the blower motor housing and ducting. There is a tray right above the blower motor. It is about two inches high and maybe 10-12 inches long. It has two tabs on eighter side that you press in and the tray pulls out. This is the filter that needs to be changed every 30,000 miles. Becareful it will be dirty if it has never been changed.

4. Be sure before you take the filter out look at the front and the back of the filter in the tray. There is a raised flang at the front and the back of the tray that the filter ends have to be over to hold it in place when you push the tray back in.

5. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done.

Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body Replace inner and outer pads Re-Install caliper REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE

B13

B = Change oil/filter

1 = Rotate Tires

3 = Change transmission fluid

Tire pressure isn't totally dependent upon the vehicle, although manufacturers have certain recommendations. If the tires are OEM, then the inside drivers side door jam should have a sticker denoting the proper PSI.

If the tires have been changed to another type, you'll need to check the tires -- and then compare with the driver door jam sticker. They may not match, though.

Jack up the car and put stands under it then look and see where it is leaking.

on the automatic transition and PMC (vehicle computer) blue with white wire (wire A30 VSP - vehicle speed pulse)