Jeep Cherokee Laredo

To answer your question, no...it's not overheating. Is yours?

Rear of the jeep

On the passengers side of the trans about even with the front of the door fan shaped switch held on by two bolts.

I suggest taking it apart and cleaning it before you think about replacing.

The switch is nearly $300

To remove, flatten out the retaining washer side under nut, remove large nut, remove smaller ( 14mm ) bolt on the adjustment side.

cleaning is easy, 6 screws in back, pull apart, clean out all that old grease, pay special attention to the two contacts on the sweeper arm, they should move in and out easily as they have springs underneath and are the man contacts, apply new di-electric grease and reassemble.

reassemble and align before tightening, easiest way is to put trans selector in R and move switch until reverse lights come on.

THE BEST WAY I EVER DO THAT IS GRAB THE INNER WIRE THE BEST YOU CAN WITH A PAIR OF VISE GRIPS AND GET A FERM STANCE (SO YOU DON'T FALL ON THE BUTT) PULL OR GIVE IT A GOOD TUG. IT SHOULD OPEN RIGHT UP. MAKE SURE YOU ONLY HAVE THE INNER WIRE OR YOU'LL BE PULLING YOUR BUTT OFF FOR NOTHING. ONCE OPEN GET A RIDE TO THE NEAREST AUTO PARTS ,THEN REPLACE. ALL THIS USAULLY WORKS IN THE YARD WHEN WE GET THEM BURNED UP INSIDE. HOPE THIS WORKS FOR YOU ,AND TRY TO HAVE A NICE DAY.

Maybe the computer,is happening with my 98,Fuel system ok ,batt ok.

WATER PUMP 4.7L ENGINES

The water pump on 4.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.

A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover.

If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage, or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive. Refer to Viscous Fan Drive in this group.

The water pump can be removed without discharging the air conditioning system (if equipped)

REMOVAL

Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.

Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.

Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.

The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump by turning mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from front. Threads on viscous fan drive are RIGHT HAND. Using special tool spanner wrench 6958 with adapter pins 8346 and a suitable fan wrench loosen the fan drive Viscous Fan and Fan Drive 4.7L Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time.

WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER 6094) SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.

CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.

If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from thermal viscous fan drive.

Remove two fan shroud-to-radiator nuts Fan Shroud Mounting Hardware Do not attempt to remove fan shroud at this time.

Remove fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle as a complete unit.

After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly, do not place thermal viscous fan drive in horizontal position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate lubricant.

Remove accessory drive belt as follows: The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. Relax tension from belt by rotating tensioner clockwise (as viewed from front) Automatic Belt Tensioner - 4.7L When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt.

Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove lower hose at water pump.

Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and one stud bolt

CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.

Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.

INSTALLATION

Clean gasket mating surfaces.

Using a new gasket, position water pump and install mounting bolts as shown. Water Pump Installation - 4.7L Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.

Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.

Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.

Relax tension from belt tensioner Automatic Belt Tensioner - 4.7L Install drive belt

CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. Refer to Belt Routing 4.7L for correct belt routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located in the engine compartment. The correct belt with correct length must be used.

Position fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.

Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow through the radiator.

Install two fan shroud-to-radiator nuts Fan Shroud Mounting Hardware

Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between tips of fan blades and fan shroud.

Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft.

Fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling the Cooling System in this group.

Connect negative battery cable.

Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks

Most of them (and I emphasise most of them) are located next to the starter relay which is just behind the battery. They are the black-coloured "lumps" in the wires just after the wires leave the large bolt on the relay. There may be one or two other ones close by.

right next to the shifter in the center calum

A very basic way to look at it is this.....

With 4.56 gears, the driveshaft will have to turn 4.56 times in order for your tires to make one full rotation.

With 4.88 gears, your driveshaft will have to go around 4.88 times for your tires to make one full rotation.

Basically, the higher the number, the more rotations the driveshaft will make.

On a 10 speed bike, you would climb a steep hill in 1st gear.... lots of pedaling to get the rear tire to move- it would move slowly, but you would have lots of hill climbing power. 4.88 gears would be similar to 1st gear on a 10 speed bike.... 4.56 gears would be similar to 2nd gear....4.10 gears would be similar to 3rd gear....etc.

Changing a Jeep Cherokee(XJ) from an automatic to a manual transmission should be relatively simple in comparison to conversions for other models where manufactures drastically change the design of their vehicles based on the type of transmissions installed. Not to mention most car models change and redesign the exterior, interior, and engine multiple times over the course of the model's lives. Not the Cherokee, the infamous simplicity and reliability of the Cherokee is ultimately due to the bullet proof AMC 258cid in-line-six cylinder engine which inspired its relatively unchanged and universal design characteristics that are reflected throughout it's seventeen years of production in the U.S; and twenty-one years in China. Based on this engineering concept, it is plausible to purchase, or scrap the parts needed from one of the thousands of dying Cherokees out there, and directly swap them out. The general list of parts would include the clutch pedal assembly, shifter, appropriate electronic connectors, transfer-case(for four wheel drive applications), drive shaft(s), transmission, cross-member, and of course your drug of choice(alcohol, nicotine, caffeine, and/or THC) to assist with research and installation. I must also add that some conversions may require you to swap or add computer components. The main cost of the conversion would be the transmission, transfer case, computer parts, and most importantly your time; not to forget researching and picking up parts. Even though this project would be relatively simple and fun for the mechanically inclined, based on the abundance of Cherokees on the market, it's extreme reliability, and again it's universal design, I would be be cautious of reality checking witches(wives, girlfriends, and mothers) who may argue that it's more reasonable to purchase a used Cherokee equipped with a manual transmission installed from the factory.

Yes, four wheels down, trans in park, and t-case in neutral.

You first have to remove the bumper shroud (not as hard as is sounds). First, remove the three plastic pushpins from the bottom of the bumper shroud (lie on the ground under your radiator looking up - you'll see them. Next, pop the hood and remove the eight? screws holding the "chrome" grill to the header panel. Then, remove the 8?mm hex head screw holding the bumper shroud to the wheel well liner. You should now be able to pry the bumper shroud away from the side of the vehicle that you want to swap out the headlight. wiring harness connector is just below header panel a few inches to the inside of the headlight. The whole process should take less than 20 minutes.

It is located on the side of the block next to the radiator, just above the A/C compressor.

you take it to the dealer caz you cant do it for sure its incredably complicated

alignment, worn tires, bad suspension parts...can contribute.

I tried 1) shocks, 2) tires. Other parts were OK'd by one mechanic, but others were ready to replace anything. I find that when tires are allowed to go out of balance, the shaking returns slowly (with gradual imbalance) but goes away immediately with rebalance. The new shocks seemed to help with control if vibration started.

What you're encountering is called a death-wobble and there's three common causes: 1) Unibody Cherokees wont accept anything larger than 32" tires without consequences, the weight of the tire/wheel combo causes the tires to fight against each other and wobble at highway speeds - when it happens all you can do is to pull over and slow down until it's back under control.

2) Wheel imbalance will often cause heavy enough vibration to start the death-wobble and the larger the wheels are or the more hard impacts they take while driving can cause weights to fly off and the wheels become imbalanced.

3) The front suspensions tracking bar has a ball-socket similar to a tierod end that will wear out and become very loose, when this happens you lose stability between the left and right tire allowing excessive wiggle and again you're back doing the death-wobble. Replacement tracking bars generally have grease fittings and lifetime warrantys which is a HUGE improvement over the OEM part, some also come with a removable/replaceable end that's also very nice.

I have a 98 jgc, in the city im lucky if I get 15mpg. on the highway somewhere between 25 & 30 depending how heavy my right foot gets.

Often times the brake switch located near and operated by the brake pedal needs to be adjusted. There is a locknut that needs to be loosened and then the whole switch is rotated clockwise (usually) to get it's pin to retract inwards so as to break the circuit. Normally, when the pedal moves away from the switch the pin is pushed out and an internal connection is made to light up the brake lihting circuit. If that does not happen,then the switch could be replaced. If a whole lot of turns are needed, unclip the wiring harness. There would normally be a proper set up procedure specific to the make and model and year. Find out what that is.Also worth looking at is 2 wires shorted together in the circuit. If that's the case you can spend a bit of time tracking it down.It would also tend to drain your battery fairly quickly.The brake lights use a lot of juice to light up a lot of filaments!Remeber this is by design kinda general.

== == == == == == Its always 2 wheel drive unless you put it in 4 wheels drive.

The optional Quadratrac 4 wheel system is basically an AWD system and the only way to use it in 2 wheel drive would be to remove the front drive shaft which is not recommended.

An XJ is a Cherokee, a TJ is a Wrangler.

The correct factory tire size for a 2002 Jeep Cherokee is 225/75-16.

The CPS is located at the 11 o'clock position on the bellhousing looking from underneath the vehicle. If you unplug and then plug in the connector located near the intake manifold and it starts when it wouldn't, plan on replacing it very soon. You will need to jack up the vehicle in the front, support it with real automotive jackstands, and work from underneath. Arrange the best lighting you can, and use 1/4" drive extensions about three feet long, with a universal connector for the socket. Use a magnet, bubble gum, or something to hold the bolts to the socket. If they fall into the bell housing, removing the transmission to get them becomes your next chore. When the bolts are out, remove the CPS, and replace. There is a modification to slot the ends of the bolt holes, removing only what is necessary to slip over the bolts so that they will not need to be removed completely again. Reconnect and start the motor, if that doesn't do it, check all the grounds and the main plug through the firewall.

Provided the seats can be folded down, there should be buttons on the top of the seats that release them to allow said folding.

Check the oil sending unit first, if this turns out not to be the problem then you might have a bad oil pump. If this is the case you should invest in a repair manual for vehicles that carry your make and model and year of car I bought mine for about 20.00$. good luck.

Remove the plug in the center of the cover. Fluid level should be even with the bottom of the hole.