Jeep

That can be normal

That can be normal

You can but the top is more than likely going to leak unless the Jeep is fairly new. Even then it may leak. I would not advise it.

30 or 31 max. Anything larger and you'll either need a suspension lift, a body lift (which I don't like) or you'll need to cut out fender wells.

Possibly the crankshaft positioning sensor or Neutral Safety Switch

You must first remove the head to get to the lifters. I suggest getting a repair manual from your local auto parts store for details on that.

once you have the head off you will either need a special lifter removal tool (which you should be able to borrow from autozone, checkers, krager, whatever your store may be) OR you can use just a regular magnetic tool retriever. stick the magnetic tool directly onto the lifter (it's best to try to get it to attach directly in the center of the lifter) and pull up slowly. the lifters can be a little tricky but I've found that if you continuously push the lifter up and down you can get it to come up a little more each time until it comes out. There will be a little bit of suction holding it in place due to the very tight cylinder it fits in and the amount of oil in and around the lifter.

once you have them removed you can inspect them by holding the bottom edge of each lifter against the side of any other lifter. if the bottom is slightly convex (bowed outward) and has no visible scratches or damage then it is still good. you can use a screwdriver to pop out the retaining spring in the top of the lifter and take the lifter apart and clean it with the proper solvent. DO NOT USE ANY FORM OF GASOLINE OR WATER! a bit of brake cleaner or carb cleaner should do fine. fill the lifters with oil and reassemble them. dip them in oil before installation as well.

if the bottom of the lifter is flat or concave (bowed inward) or shows any signs of damage then it must be replaced. this usually means that you also need to replace the camshaft. it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace the camshaft any time you replace lifters! even if only one of the lifters is bad you should replace the whole set.

if you do have to replace the camshaft be sure to inspect the camshaft bearings for damage as well. refer to your manual for more info on this procedure.

you can find great deals online that will include the camshaft, lifters, and timing chain and sprockets. you will also need to purchase some new gaskets, namely head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust gasket (this is a combined gasket), thermostat housing gasket, and timing chain cover gasket. you can sometimes get these cheaper if you just purchase a top end rebuild gasket set which will come with a few extra gaskets (throttle body gasket, valve stem seals, etc.) which you could always keep around just in case.

once you have finished the job you will need to change the oil and filter. even if you changed the oil YESTERDAY you will need to do it again or risk damage to your new camshaft! start the engine and let it idle for about 30-45 minutes. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE! the camshaft will need to break-in before any high revving occurs. you should also use a conventional oil for the first 3000 miles or until your next oil change. avoid letting the engine labor past 4000 RPM for the first 100 miles or so at the very least.

you may notice some ticking for the first few minutes after the first start. this is because the new lifters have yet to completely fill with oil. once the engine warms up a bit the lifters should begin working at proper capacity and there should be very little to no ticking at all. you can help this process by dipping the new lifters in oil and pushing in on the sprung end to fill them with oil before installation.

if there is still a ticking noise you may need to remove the valve cover and recheck the rocker arm torque settings. if there is a "knocking" noise then you will need to determine its source and go from there. this could be the sign of a "spun" rod bearing or a worn wrist pin.

this job is actually pretty simple to finish and should only take you half a day at the most. you should be able to do everything (including camshaft replacement) with normal hand tools (except you will have to get a vibration dampener removal tool) and without having to remove the engine from the vehicle. just remove the grill, condenser, radiator, and trans cooler. I just rotate these components up on top of the engine after I've removed the head and lifters to gain access to the timing cover which houses the camshaft...

feel free to email me at jamesthejetman@netscape.net for any further advice or info!

The 90 Wrangler 4.2L has the wunnerful Carter carberator. It is prone to things like this. It is a "computer controlled" carb. The computer controls "needles" that move to allow fuel flow. The biggest problem I have seen with this set up is there are 2 lines that go to the exhaust to try to inject "cleaned air" into the exhaust for emmissions. There is a (supposedly) 2- one way valve to keep exhaust from coming back into the carb. These 2 lines feed directly from the air cleaner inside the air filter. What happens is the valves become "2-way" & allow nasty exhaust to get directly into the carb. It is like the exhaust is puking into the carb. To fix this on an 87 I had, I plugged the holes in the air cleaner then got 2 generic air cleaner filters with the proper size connector to fit these hoses (I think 3/4 inch but you would need to measure). This still filters the air going into the exhaust, but does not allow back-feed back into the carb. Then replace those 2 valves & rebuild the carb. This fixes the original problem (rebuild the carb & fix valves), then by removing the lines from the air cleaner, this also keeps it from happening again. Also the Carter carb does not do well on hills- it tends to die when you need it the most. People replace with a Weber or Motorcraft (Ford) carb to resolve that one.Personally if I had an older one like this I would look at the Howell throttle body as a replacement. Another possibility if this only happens when cold is the air divertion in the air cleaner hose. It might not be opening to allow exhaust heated air to preheat the incoming air.

There is a drain tube that goes through the firewall and comes out under the car. Use a piece of wire to stick up there and unclog it, water will run out when you have got it.

A jeep weighs about 2 or 3 tons.

Unplug it and use an O2 sensor socket. There will be 2, assuming it's a 4.0 6cyl. I is right above the steering linkage and the other is in the converter. If you can break it loose easily with the socket don't pull hard on it. Cut the wires off on the sensor side and put the box end of a 22mm wrench on it. Try to "smack" the wrench to jar it loose. Once you've cracked in loose work it in and out spraying it with penetrating oild so as not to damage the threads in the exhaust. That's a stainless system so the colder it is the better. Do not try to use heat. Hope this helps. -Ryan Unplug it and use an O2 sensor socket. There will be 2, assuming it's a 4.0 6cyl. I is right above the steering linkage and the other is in the converter. If you can break it loose easily with the socket don't pull hard on it. Cut the wires off on the sensor side and put the box end of a 22mm wrench on it. Try to "smack" the wrench to jar it loose. Once you've cracked in loose work it in and out spraying it with penetrating oild so as not to damage the threads in the exhaust. That's a stainless system so the colder it is the better. Do not try to use heat. Hope this helps. -Ryan

hinges aside they are different lengths

Drill holes into the Roll Bar to attach the 3rd point. The rest should bolt in the stock bolts.

It is on the front driver side of the engine.

Be ever so careful about this. Many car manufactures have enlisted the use of "proprietary" fluids for engine cooling. Volkswagen has done this for years and years and uses a special "dealer only" coolant that is pink in color.

Check your owners manual to be absolutely certain before adding any coolant to an automobile engine.

Jeep is a make in its own right. It is produced by the Chrysler corporation .

Four Wheel Drive: When engaged, the power is applied to all four wheels.

Low: Some four wheel drive systems have a high and low setting.

at Low setting speed is compromised for higher torque and vice versa.

Google Images http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=willys+jeep&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

Three wire sensor on the throttle body.

no jeep is 5x5 dodge ram is 5x5.5

try the fuel pump relay in the engine bay. check wiring schematic for locations. swap with a/c relay or other same style relay to rule out a bad relay.

I BELIEVE THE WATER COULD BE COMING FROM YOUR AIR CONDITIONING .

You have to use a 3/8" or 10mm quick disconnect tool. It slides in and expands a spring clip in inside so you can pull it apart.

4.0L engine - 8litres of "DEXTRON III/MERCON" fluid (dry fill) 2.5L engine - 6.6litres (dry fill)

put a 4" lift on and trim the fenders a little. this way you will have the clearence under the axles you want with a lower center of gravity. or just do a spring over axle lift with you stock springs and you will get a nice super flexable ride that will fit 35s for dirt cheap. a DIY soa kit can be done for only a couple hundred bucks. don't waste your money on the name brand stuff it is not worth it. do soa buy the shocks that will fit and pitman arm and extended brake lines. then get rid of that rear track bar and build your own sway bar disconects with parts from tsc and make your own front track bar relocation bracket. 5"s or more of lift that will fit 35"s for under $300 bucks and rides better then the name brand garbage out there.