Jeep

The 90 Wrangler 4.2L has the wunnerful Carter carberator. It is prone to things like this. It is a "computer controlled" carb. The computer controls "needles" that move to allow fuel flow. The biggest problem I have seen with this set up is there are 2 lines that go to the exhaust to try to inject "cleaned air" into the exhaust for emmissions. There is a (supposedly) 2- one way valve to keep exhaust from coming back into the carb. These 2 lines feed directly from the air cleaner inside the air filter. What happens is the valves become "2-way" & allow nasty exhaust to get directly into the carb. It is like the exhaust is puking into the carb. To fix this on an 87 I had, I plugged the holes in the air cleaner then got 2 generic air cleaner filters with the proper size connector to fit these hoses (I think 3/4 inch but you would need to measure). This still filters the air going into the exhaust, but does not allow back-feed back into the carb. Then replace those 2 valves & rebuild the carb. This fixes the original problem (rebuild the carb & fix valves), then by removing the lines from the air cleaner, this also keeps it from happening again. Also the Carter carb does not do well on hills- it tends to die when you need it the most. People replace with a Weber or Motorcraft (Ford) carb to resolve that one.Personally if I had an older one like this I would look at the Howell throttle body as a replacement. Another possibility if this only happens when cold is the air divertion in the air cleaner hose. It might not be opening to allow exhaust heated air to preheat the incoming air.

There is a drain tube that goes through the firewall and comes out under the car. Use a piece of wire to stick up there and unclog it, water will run out when you have got it.

A jeep weighs about 2 or 3 tons.

Unplug it and use an O2 sensor socket. There will be 2, assuming it's a 4.0 6cyl. I is right above the steering linkage and the other is in the converter. If you can break it loose easily with the socket don't pull hard on it. Cut the wires off on the sensor side and put the box end of a 22mm wrench on it. Try to "smack" the wrench to jar it loose. Once you've cracked in loose work it in and out spraying it with penetrating oild so as not to damage the threads in the exhaust. That's a stainless system so the colder it is the better. Do not try to use heat. Hope this helps. -Ryan Unplug it and use an O2 sensor socket. There will be 2, assuming it's a 4.0 6cyl. I is right above the steering linkage and the other is in the converter. If you can break it loose easily with the socket don't pull hard on it. Cut the wires off on the sensor side and put the box end of a 22mm wrench on it. Try to "smack" the wrench to jar it loose. Once you've cracked in loose work it in and out spraying it with penetrating oild so as not to damage the threads in the exhaust. That's a stainless system so the colder it is the better. Do not try to use heat. Hope this helps. -Ryan

hinges aside they are different lengths

Drill holes into the Roll Bar to attach the 3rd point. The rest should bolt in the stock bolts.

It is on the front driver side of the engine.

Be ever so careful about this. Many car manufactures have enlisted the use of "proprietary" fluids for engine cooling. Volkswagen has done this for years and years and uses a special "dealer only" coolant that is pink in color.

Check your owners manual to be absolutely certain before adding any coolant to an automobile engine.

Jeep is a make in its own right. It is produced by the Chrysler corporation .

Four Wheel Drive: When engaged, the power is applied to all four wheels.

Low: Some four wheel drive systems have a high and low setting.

at Low setting speed is compromised for higher torque and vice versa.

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Three wire sensor on the throttle body.

no jeep is 5x5 dodge ram is 5x5.5

try the fuel pump relay in the engine bay. check wiring schematic for locations. swap with a/c relay or other same style relay to rule out a bad relay.

I BELIEVE THE WATER COULD BE COMING FROM YOUR AIR CONDITIONING .

You have to use a 3/8" or 10mm quick disconnect tool. It slides in and expands a spring clip in inside so you can pull it apart.

4.0L engine - 8litres of "DEXTRON III/MERCON" fluid (dry fill) 2.5L engine - 6.6litres (dry fill)

put a 4" lift on and trim the fenders a little. this way you will have the clearence under the axles you want with a lower center of gravity. or just do a spring over axle lift with you stock springs and you will get a nice super flexable ride that will fit 35s for dirt cheap. a DIY soa kit can be done for only a couple hundred bucks. don't waste your money on the name brand stuff it is not worth it. do soa buy the shocks that will fit and pitman arm and extended brake lines. then get rid of that rear track bar and build your own sway bar disconects with parts from tsc and make your own front track bar relocation bracket. 5"s or more of lift that will fit 35"s for under $300 bucks and rides better then the name brand garbage out there.

if you have a posi unit make sure it has a friction modifier in it. it is a 4.0 oz liquid that is added to your diff fluid to allow the posi discs to slip on tight turns. Very important additive.

Sounds like someone has at one time installed an "auto locker" of some sort. This is a common thing to do specially if it is two-wheel drive version. The better auto lockers you wont hear much. The cheaper ones will allow you to hear the "ratcheting" sound. They both work the same though. This locker is installed in the rear differential. Hope this helps. Brad.

No it will not.

You give her the beans and then jam the brakes on and get her smoking.you will then smell the stockies burning.

The oil pressure gauge is going to fluctuate on a Toyota Tacoma or any automobile. The oil pressure is less when the auto is idling and more when the auto is going down the road.