Jeep

lift up the cap at the base of the arm, undo the nut, and disconnect the washer fluid hose..

Broken clutch cable or clutch pressure plate fork.

no, half inch difference in bolt pattern

Just got thru tearing mine up to see how to remove it. You must gently remove the center cap that has the shift pattern on it. It is held in place by compression fit only so gentle prying with something no harder than what is absolutely necessary to pry it up (strong fingernails?) must be used to keep from scarring it and/or the shifter grip. Once you have the center cap off the rest is easy, you will need a 15 MM deep well socket (or standrad socket with short extension) and ratchet, with it remove the retaining nut that was concealed under the center cap. After removing the retaining nut, simply firmly grip the shift handle and turn counter-clockwise and it should come right off. If you plan to replace the shifter knob with an after-market shift knob you will need to know that the threads are metric, 10 x 150.

With some modification it could be done

The blocks are nearly the same. If you use the 258 intake and distributor in the 4.0; the only part that will need modifying is the exhaust from the manifold. I did one in a weekend using a 727 from a 91 wagoneer and a 02 4.0 engine. I used the 258 intake, carb, and distributor. I used the old v belt system to make it easy. It's easier to mod up an engine that's already running than making it work later.

I can only assume that it is an older jeep. IT should be located under the intake and exhaust manifold. Straight down from the throttle body.

The 2004 Mazda 6 4cylinder has 160HP

start back at the battery, are the leads corroded? is there a clicking noise when the starter is engaged but the starter wont turn? are the leads from the battery to the starter in good condition. Usually any sign of a white powder around the battery or a lot of dirt is a sign of needing attention. The clicking could be a starter relay aor the starter itself needing replacement.

take the screws out if the tail light and pull the old one out

Yes it does.

I know from owning two that at the very least, some Jeep Grand Cherokees have straight 6 engine. i do not know about other models.

your selection sensor is bad or the sensor hasn't figured out you are in 2wd.

try driving in reverse for a good couple hundred feet, then pull forward, sometimes this will help the sensor realize what position the transfercase is in.

the sensor is on the top front of the transfercase

Something in the circuit is drawing too much power.

As long as it's 12 volts and it will hook up it will do fine.

you will need to replace the wiper motor. there is a SET OF CONTACTS IN THE ASSEMBLY THAT STAYS TOGETHER TIL IN THE STORE POSITION[BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD]. THIS IS EITHER BROKEN OR BURNT OFF, THUS DISABLING BOTH ACTIONS

The rims are a different size and use a different lug pattern. Because of this, they are not interchangeable.

just unplug it...n dont go over 55 while driving.

On mine I had to lock the doors back and unlock them from the passanger side.

If that fails the alternate door is the back hatch door turn it two times to deactivate alarm.

lock the driver side door with the key and unlk again all while door is shut of coarse

On mine since I dont have the remote I have to put the key in the drivers side door, turn it 2x to the right to disarm the alarm, then once to the left to unlock the door. Works every time.

Yes it can. If the oxigen sensor is bad, the computer keeps getting signals of deficient combustion and will try to vary the amout of fuel going into de injectos. This can cause the car to stall.

Just had (Nov 2008) my key and fob replaced by dealership in West Lebanon NH. Cost $52.90 for the Key Blank, $64.30 for the FOB Transmitter, and $25.50 labor to cut key and program the fob, for a total of $142.70 plus about 1 hr drive time and wait time at the dealership.

Chrysler has used both Champion and NGK as original equipment.

Chrysler has used both Champion and NGK as original equipment.

Your Jeep probably won't jump start because the battery is not strong enough to hold a charge anymore. You will need to replace the battery.

+++

You will need to replace the battery if it won't hold a charge, but given a suitable source vehicle it should still be possible to jump start (NB 'jump' electrically, not tow-start) any car even with a fully flat battery.

BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE A WHEEL BE CERTAIN THAT

* the car is chocked or brake set so it cannot roll; * the jack is positioned at the manufacturer-recommended support point; * you have a secondary support positioned to hold the car should the jack slip; * no children or onlookers are too close and no one is in any way under the car.

The problem is that there is pressure from the car's weight on the wheel. Carefully, slowly adjust your jack a little bit up or down so that the wheel's weight is not hanging on the lugs and, more importantly, the car's weight is not resting on the lugs. When the pressure is off the wheel, it should slide easily over the lugs.

When replacing the wheel, adjust the jack in the same way to be sure the lugs are centered in the lug holes of the wheel rather than resting against the sides of the holes. This is important to the proper centering of the lug nuts.

The crank sensor is mounted on the top of the transmission bell housing.