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Mazda 626

Manufactured by Mazda Motor Corporation in 1979-2002, the Mazda 626 was a car exclusively built for the export market. In 1980, this piston-engined vehicle became one of the best sellers in the United States.

1,233 Questions

Will low compression on all 4 cylinders of a 2.0 engine prevent it from starting?

The short answer is "yes". How low is low? And is compression low, and equal between adjacent cylinders? If you squeeze the radiator hose while trying to start the engine, can you feel pulsations? If the answer is yes to either question, you may have a bad head gasket.

What is engine check code P112 on a 99 Mazda 626lX V6 engine?

It is the intake air temp is low. The sensor that is in the air intake before the throttle body is probably disconnected.

The "0" in p0112 is generic. See Mazda specific codes below--look at P1112. Locate the sensor by facing engine and find a black box in front of you. The sensor is to the right of the black box and it's the second connector.

P1000 OBD II Monitor Testing Not Completed

P1001 Unable to Achieve Self-Test Function or SCP Error

P1100 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1101 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit out of Self-Test Range

P1102 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Throttle Position Sensor

P1103 Mass Airflow Sensor Signal Inconsistent with Engine Speed

P1110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit

P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Signal (Dynamic Chamber) Circuit

P1114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1116 ECT Sensor Circuit Out of Self Test Range

P1117 ECT Sensor Signal Intermittent

P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of Range Low

P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Not Consistent with Mass Airflow Signal

P1122 Throttle Position Stuck Closed

P1123 Throttle Position Stuck Open

P1124 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Out of Self Test Range

P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Signal Intermittent

P1127 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Not On During Key On Engine Running Self Test

P1128 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signals Swapped in Key On Engine Running Self Test

P1130 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1131 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1132 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1135 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit Low Input

P1136 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit High Input

P1137 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1138 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1141 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit Low Input

P1142 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit High Input

P1143 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1144 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 3 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1150 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Not Switching (Fuel Control Limit Reached)

P1151 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Below 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Lean)

P1152 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Signal Above 0.45v (A/F Ratio Too Rich)

P1169 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1170 HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1173 HO2S Bank 2 Sensor 1 Circuit Fixed (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1195 EGR Boost Sensor Circuit

P1196 Ignition Switch Start Circuit

P1235 Fuel Pump Control Circuit

P1236 Fuel Pump Control Out Range

P1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit

P1252 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid '2' Circuit

P1260 Anti-Theft System Signal Detected - Engine Disabled

P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limit Reached

P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor

P1345 No CMP or SGC Signal

P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Lost to PCM or Out Of Range

P1352 Ignition Coil 'A' Primary Circuit

P1353 Ignition Coil 'B' Primary Circuit

P1354 Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Circuit

P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal Out Of Self Test Range

P1359 SPOUT Signal Lost To Powertrain Control Module Or Out Of Range

P1360 Ignition Coil 'A' Secondary Circuit

P1361 Ignition Coil 'B' Secondary Circuit

P1362 Ignition Coil 'C' Secondary Circuit

P1364 Ignition Coil Primary Circuit

P1365 Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit

P1390 Octane Adjust Shorting Bar Out or Circuit Open

P1400 DPFE Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1401 DPFE Sensor Circuit High Input

P1402 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit

P1405 DPFE Sensor Upstream Hose Off Or Plugged

P1406 DPFE Sensor Downstream Hose Off or Plugged

P1407 No EGR Flow Detected

P1408 EGR System Flow Out of Key On Engine Running Self Test Range

P1409 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit

P1410 EGR Boost Solenoid Valve Stuck

P1443 EVAP System Purge Flow Fault

P1444 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

P1446 EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Voltage

P1449 CDCV or Throttle PositionCV Circuit

P1450 EVAP Control System Fault

P1451 Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1455 Fuel Tank Level Sensor Circuit

P1460 Wide Open Throttle A/C Cut-Off Relay Circuit

P1464 Air Conditioning Control Signal Circuit

P1474 Fan Control (Primary Winding) Circuit

P1479 Fan Control (Condenser Primary) Circuit

P1485 EGR Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

P1486 EGR Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1487 EGR-CHK (Boost) Solenoid Circuit

P1496 EGR Valve Motor Coil '1' Open or Shorted

P1497 EGR Valve Motor Coil '2' Open or Shorted

P1498 EGR Valve Motor Coil '3 Open or Shorted

P1499 EGR Valve Motor Coil '4' Open or Shorted

P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent Signal

P1501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Out of Self Test Range

P1502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Error

P1504 Idle Air Control Solenoid Circuit Intermittent

P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip

P1506 Idle Air Control System Overspeed Detected

P1507 Idle Air Control System Underspeed Detected

P1508 Bypass Air Solenoid '1' Circuit

P1509 Bypass Air Solenoid '2 Circuit

P1512 VTCS Fault

P1521 VRIS Solenoid '1' Circuit

P1522 VRIS Solenoid '2 Circuit

P1523 VICS Solenoid Circuit

P1524 Charge Air Cooler Bypass Solenoid Circuit

P1525 ABV Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

P1526 ABV Vent Solenoid Circuit

P1529 L/C Atmospheric Balance Air Control Valve Circuit

P1540 ABV System Fault

P1562 Powertrain Control Module +BB Voltage Low

P1569 VTCS Circuit Low Input

P1570 VTCS Circuit High Input

P1601 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error

P1602 Powertrain Control Module Communication Line to TCM Error

P1602 Immobilizer System Communication Error with Powertrain Control Module

P1603 Immobilizer System Fault

P1604 Immobilizer System Fault

P1605 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory Test Error

P1608 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) DTC Test Fault

P1609 Powertrain Control Module (ECM CPU) Knock Sensor Circuit

P1621 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1622 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1623 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1624 lmmobilizer System Fault

P1627 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Line Communication Error

P1628 Powertrain Control Module (ECM/TCS) Any Line Communication Error

P1631 Generator Output Voltage Signal (No Output)

P1632 Battery Voltage Monitor Circuit

P1633 Battery Overcharge Fault

P1634 Generator Terminal 'B' Circuit Open

P1650 Power Steering Pressure Switch Out of Range Fault

P1651 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit

P1652 Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit

P1701 Transmission Range Sensor Reverse Engagement Error

P1702 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1703 Brake On/Off Switch Out of Self Test Range

P1705 Transmission Range Sensor out of Self Test Range

P1709 Clutch Pedal Position Switch Circuit

P1711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit out of Self Test Range

P1713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P1714 Shift Solenoid '1' Mechanical Fault

P1715 Shift Solenoid '2' Mechanical Fault

P1716 Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault

P1717 Shift Solenoid '4' Mechanical Fault

P1718 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit

P1720 Vehicle Speed Sensor '2' Signal Error

P1729 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch Error

P1740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault

P1741 Torque Converter Clutch Control Electrical Fault

P1742 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Shorted

P1743 Torque Converter Clutch Failed On - TCIL is On

P1744 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Mechanical Fault

P1746 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Open

P1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit

P1749 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Low

P1751 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Mechanical Fault

P1752 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'A' Circuit Shorted

P1754 Transmission Coast Clutch Solenoid Electrical Fault

P1756 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Mechanical Fault

P1757 Transmission Shift Solenoid 'B' Circuit Shorted

P1761 Transmission Shift Solenoid '3' Mechanical Fault

P1762 Transmission SS3/SS4/OD Band Fault

P1765 Transmission 3-2 Timing Solenoid Valve

P1767 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit

P1771 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Open to Transmission Control Module

P1772 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Shorted to Transmission Control Module

P1780 Transmission Control Switch Circuit

P1780 Overdrive Off Switch not Cycled during the Self Test

P1781 Transmission 4x4 Low Switch out of Range Fault

P1783 Transmission Fluid Temperature High Input

P1788 3-2T/CCS Circuit Open

P1789 3-2T/CCS Circuit Shorted

P1794 Powertrain Control Module Battery Direct Power Circuit

P1797 P/N Switch Open or Short Circuit

P1900 Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P1901 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent

How do you repair your car motor when it overheats during a stop or at idle but remains normal on highways?

Hey Tadd==I could tell you more if you stated what kind of car it was. Check the fan clutch or electric fan to make sure it is working properly. This should do it. GoodluckJoe

How to change a starter in a Mazda mpv?

With lots of swearing and a case of Bud. Seriously, get under the van and take off the two starter bolts that you can see and the one bolt for the electrical wire. Then there is a brace from the side of the block going up to the intake,remove the bottom two bolts. From the top of the van remove the battery to give you a better view of underneath, take off the top bolt from the brace and get it out of the way. Remove the cap that protects the wires on the starter selaniod and remove the wires. Then you can get to the 3rd bolt on the starter.Go back underneath and swear some more and the starter will fall into your hands.

How do you replace the brake light located in the rear deck of a 94 Mazda 626?

you have to kneel on the back seat and remove the cover from the rear deck.the bulb socket is turned counterclockwise and the bulb can be replaced.

How do stop rear brakes from rattling in Mazda 626?

The best way to stop the rear brakes on a Mazda 626 from rattling would be to replace them. New brakes can cost between $20 and upwards of $100 depending on the quality of the brakes.

Where is the starter on your 1999 Mazda 626 4 cylinder?

it'a on the back side of the motor below the egr valve hard to see take the air filter box off and hose's it will be easier to see I have changed two of these on my 2000 Mazda 626 PS don't make the mistake and buy a new mitisubiti starter they don't last just buy a quality rebuilt one because trust me after installing this starter you want want to do it again be ready to jack up the car because some of the work you will have to do underneith the car and a little from the top and its tight PS start by removing the positive battery cable

Where is a 1991 Mazda 626 fuel pump?

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank

Turn key on-Should have a fuel pressure of 64-85 psi

Where is the fuse box in a 2003 Mazda Tribute?

Bottom left to the steering wheel. Left of the brake petal. Take the carpeting off to access the fuse panel

What does it mean if the airbag light comes on in a 1995 Mazda 626?

The airbag light in a 1995 262 will come on when there is an airbag circuit problem. The airbag will not work right in the event of a crash unless the problem is fixed.

How much oil does a 1997 Mazda 626 LX use?

with oil filter change 3.5 litres (3.7 quarts)

How do you change coolant on a 1998 Mazda 626?

Almost all Mazda's have a drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. Easy to see if you just look under the car. You do not even need a wrench. It is a low spot and almost all the fluid will drain if you just open the radiator cap. Almost all moder car will need to be "toped off" a couple of times when you refill the radiator.

Where is the low pressure port for the ac system for a 1998 Mazda 626?

The 1998 Mazda 626 low pressure port for your air conditioning system will be on the top of the air conditioner compressor. The low pressure port will be on the left-hand side of the compressor.

What is engine code p1130 on a 97 Mazda 626?

Trouble code P1130 means: Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Fuel Trim At Limit

How do you replace the license plate lights on a Mazda 626?

Open up your trunk and look up above the license plate. It is held in by screws. undo the screws adn unit drops down.

Where are the timing marks on a 1994 Mazda 626?

the timing marks are both on the cam gears and the crank gear. According to the Chilton's book you line up "I" and the "E" respectivlly while at top dead center, when faceing the drivers side from the passages' side. that good for a 2.0 motor.

Where is the sensor which regulates shifting through forward gears on a 1999 Dodge Stratus?

assuming it's automatic. it's inside the transmission. and it's not a sensor really. it's hydraulic pressure that builds in a planetary gear system. if it won't shift, then your inner tranny seals are toast and it's gonna cost you about $600 to have fixed. whatever you do, do not try to repair the tranny yourself. it's ugly, nasty, and scary in there with hundreds of little springs, fittings, and seals that just love to run, jump, and play where you can't find them. There is more than one sensor that regulates shifting. The one I'm familiar with is the input speed sensor. What happen to my car was the check engine light came on the first day but the car seemed fine. On the 2nd day it got stuck in 2nd gear but I found out if I shut the car off and restarted it, the transmission would go thru the gears twice but on the third time it would stay in 2nd gear. I took it to the shop to have them put it on the computer and the tech said the input sensor was bad he suggested changing the output speed sensor also because his experience was they are bad for going out also. The shop wanted $100.00 for putting them in so I just bought the parts and put them in myself. It took me about 2 hrs and after changing the sensors the check engine light went off and the car shifts fine. The transmission is a automatic.

What could cause a 1994 Ford Probe GT that has a new distributor still have no spark?

okay ! I have posted that it probly is the crank postioning sensor ford still makes things seem way more diffacult than they really are you cant find any specs for anything to make sure the part is bad or not one of the reason that ford is headed for the scrap pileIn my 94 Probe GT, I could get no spark out of my car, and found out that it was the distributor. Word of advise...spend the extra $ and let someone else put it on for you. I did mine myself twice, and both times, the seals came loose and water got in, causeing the motor to rev up and down while driving, and then cutting off at 2500 RPM. It was not good!

my recomendation is pull distributer cap and turn over the engine look to see that your rotor button is spinning, if its not spinning check you timing belt, but if it is spinning check on replacement of your coil pack and/or your entire distributer once all else fails...

My Timing belt is brand new and it is in perfect time...

THIS IS NOT AN ANSWER IT IS THE STORY BEHIND THE QUESTION

I bought the car after it had set for a year or so, put on new timing belt and water pump, car ran great for two days then suddenly when I hit 4500rpm my tach flip out and the car died. I checked for spark and got nothing. I double checked timingbelt, replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the distributor.......I'm Lost

Have you tried resetting the Fuel Pump Cut Off switch in the left rear corner of your trunk? Is the "Fuel Cut-Off" lamp illumated on the dash when you try to start? This is a perplexing problem...seems like as the cars age and the distributors begin to wear down they send to much current to the immobilizer units in the cars(these trip the Fuel Cut-off Switch in the trunk). The excess current evidently erode or overheats the soldering on the chip board of the immobilizer unit, thus, triggering the fuel cut-off switch to activate.

All of that happening has eventually caused my probe to fail to start at all now...the fuel pump is not pumping and there is no spark being sent to the plugs...all a result of the immobilizer believing it has a problem.

The one other item it can be is a DOCUMENTED problem in Ford's Technical Service Bulletins where Ford admits there is a problem with corrosion on the wires for the immobilizer & fuel cut-off switch link.

I am in the middle of trying to fix mine. Good luck.

.

Hey buddy Why don,t u check your fuses take a ohm meter Check the resistance of Primary Wire or secondary wire. If there is no current in the primary wire that means there is problem with your Iginition relay change your relay u don,t need to reset your fuel system just change your relay that u can find when you wil pop the hood it should be green color. I think in Canadian it would cost u 106 try that hit me back

Ok I would say do a paperclip diagnostic on it it will throw you codes to check my probe threw me the code for my crank shaft postioning sensor and also could be the distributor could have a bad ignition module on it if the 94 is the same as the 93 which i think it is moisture gets in from teperature changes hot to cold ect... use a paperclip from your ten pin to your ground pin on your diagnostic block located by your battery hope this could help ive been thru it all with mine and found myself turning in distributor after distributor on warranty to fix my problem im still looking to find out if there is anyway to prevent the moisture from getting into the distributor

How do you pull trouble codes on 1993 Mazda Mx-6?

Paper clip on the data terminal you'll need to get a DIY repair manual. less than 30$ at your local parts store will save you its weight in gold