Mazda 626

The timing should be at 6 degrees for a non-turbo, with the distributor vacuum lines disconnected and plugged. It will be at 9 degrees for a turbo, with a test connector for idle setting grounded.

its just easy, just twist the lock like you open a bottled beer and pull the headlight out.

Originally came with R-12. This is no longer sold. But can be converted to R-134A.

This indicates a problem with the transmission. Take it to a professional.

According to Haynes Repair Manual #61042 for the years 1993 thur 2001 fot the Mazda 626 & MX-6 Ford Probe the engine thermostat is located on the driver's side of the engine compartment under the air breather. It is necessary to disconnect the ram-air hose & remove the air-filter compartment to reach the thermostat. The thermostat is held in place by two bolts & an "O" ring gasket. I had to replace mine & is took a "little while" to remove everything to get to the thermostat, replace the thermostat & then replace everything back in place as it was before.

A room fuse is a fuse that usually controls indicator lights. The lights would include door lights, overhead lights, or even and audio fuse.

The first thing that you need to check will be the freon level in the system and work your way from there.............

6 deg +/- 1 with distributer vacum blocked and idle at 750 +/- 50 rpm

Most cars won't even run is the converter is clogged. Clogged converters can get very hot, maybe even start fires.

could be many things, the fuse for the a/c system should be checked first. It is located inside the vehicle, under the dash on the drivers side in the fuse box. If it is all good then it likely is a loss of a/c gas. Loss of gas can occur over time. Have the vehicle serviced. They will check for leaks, proper amount of a/c gas and proper function of the compressor. could be many things, the fuse for the a/c system should be checked first. It is located inside the vehicle, under the dash on the drivers side in the fuse box. If it is all good then it likely is a loss of a/c gas. Loss of gas can occur over time. Have the vehicle serviced. They will check for leaks, proper amount of a/c gas and proper function of the compressor.

4.5 QUARTS-2.3L DOHC 4 CYLINDER -- Check your owner's manual for your model. My 2003 6 cyl. takes 5.5 quarts according to the manual. I put in 6.

Look on driver side near the brake master cylinder.

Are the dashboard light actually burnt out or is it the fuse? Have you checked the fuse? If the fuses are good you may have to take out the cluster. Also, taking out the cluster doesn't involve "ripping apart" the dash, the black skirt type thing that goes around the cluster should have 2 or 3 screws up top. Once you get that out, the cluster is exposed, and it's really easy, theres 4 screws then the 3 cable connectors. I just brought the whole cluster with me to the auto store and got 4 new bulbs (i only needed one but i thought it would help to replace all of them at once since some were getting dim)

Important Note: Disconnect the negative lead (ground) from the battery before doing this, you dont want the airbag going off by accident since you are working in the vicinity of the steering column. It will spark when you reconnect it, i just wore some leather gloves...

A Mazda 626 wiring diagram is available in the vehicle's owner's manual. Various auto parts stores also contain the diagrams.

The fuel filter is located in the engine compartment on the drivers side. It is close to the firewall and under the brake master cylinder.

Yes.

This error is from the "transmission module", it usually points to a bad speed sensor. The Mazda 3 has a speed sensor in the rear of the transmission, it is located under the battery box, near the ground in the lower part of the tranny near the firewall

(attached with one bolt and a plugin/harness, super easy). The other one is a "pulse sensor" and is located on the top of the tranny. I am wrestling with this exact error message myself on my 2004 Mazda 3. So bear in mind that what I am telling you pertains to a 2004 Mazda 3, 2.3 liter engine.

Good Luck!

If you are asking whether you can do an engine swap from the 2.0 liter inline-4 FS engine to the 2.5 liter KL engine, (or vice versa), the answer is "possibly". Most people do not attempt to do this, however, due to the complexity of the job. In addition to needing the "donor" engine, and installing it, replacement of the exhaust system, intake tract and manifolds, fuel system, ignition system and ECU as well as wiring harness, and motor mounts is required.

Hopefully this provided some help in your decision.

the possibilities are endless. You need to have the ECM scanned at a local shop and it will tell you the code that the computer is recording. The code is specific to a component in your vehicle and the shop will be able to tell you what component.

Take the wheel off.

You'll need a 10 mm socket for the brake pad screw. Loosen the screw and the brake caliper will flip up. Remove brake pads and pay attention to how they are installed.

Use a pair of regular pliers or vice grips to 'screw' the caliper cylinder back in before placing the new brake pads on.

Reverse install the pads, ie... position the same way they were before you removed them.

Flip cylinder back down and put screw back in and tighten.

Put the wheel back on.

oil is likely passing through the piston rings in the cylinders and being ignited along with fuel in the combustion chamber. The resulting blue smoke exits the tail pipe.

I had a heck of a time finding it in my 1988. Keep in mind that the engine sits in there sideways, so the "back" of the engine, or flywheel is actually on the driver's side (the front is on the passenger side). The starter for any vehicle is at the flywheel. Raise the vehicle and crawl underneath from the front on the driver's side. Look for the oil filter. Slightly above and to your left (toward the driver's side wheel well) is the starter. It looks to me like you'll need to drain the motor oil and remove the oil filter to have room to remove the starter.

Check to see if it feels like regular water, or if it's "slippery" when rubbed between your fingers. (The slippery feel comes from the lubricant used in antifreeze). If it's slippery, then you probably have a leaking heater core. If it is really rain water, you may have a blocked evaporator drain. A blocked drain will also cause water to build up when you run the a/c on a humid day.

make sure to check the "trunk security" switch inside the trunk. it is located on the drivers side of the trunk and needs to be in the on position (press the side of the switch with the car drawn on it). if the off position is pressed the interior trunk release switch won't work and the remote button on your keychain will only work when the motor is off. this has been an anoyance of mine for months and i finally read the owners manual.... hope this helps.

The Transmission filter is on the Inside of the trans. The only way you can change it is to take trans apart.