Mazda MPV

On my 2001 MPV, the Tourque sequence in on the hood of the car....Mine is a CA car...but I would think this would be standard.

-Andy

Using the drivers side switch, cycle the power door locks LOCK, UNLOCK, LOCK, UNLOCK.

Cycle the ignition from OFF to RUN eight times within 10 seconds, ending in the run position. The power door locks should cycle to indicate program mode, vehicle is ready to accept remotes.

Press any button on the remote, once again the locks will cycle to indicate a successful program.

Turn the ignition off to exit the program mode.

The water pump on the engine circulates coolant though the engine, radiator and heater core (which is usually located under passenger side of dash). The heater core looks like a small radiator and once the engines coolant starts warming up thr heat can be spread by the blower motor mounted to the side of the heater core. Voila! Hot air blowing out of whatever vent you choose.

I've had the same problem. Checking other blogs, I've found out that the leak comes from an elbow fitting at the rear of the block (passenger side). It contains an O-ring that needs to be replaced, but the problem may be caused by blockage. Do a google search for the problem & you'll get more answers. -RJC

Well, one minor problem could be that you might have something jammed were the shifter is like a penny or something that fell out (that's if you have a shifter on the floor or console, not out of the steering wheel) Just take the loose change that's stuck in there out. Had a friend who had almost the same problem, could not put the car in park or drive.

Why parkinf light is on 2000 nissan pathfinder even engine is off.

The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

Neither Haynes nor Chilton has published for the 2000+ MPV. I could tell you how, it's not hard, I've had mine off numerous times, but it's easier for you to peruse this very forum. It's been asked and answered many times here.

Look under the radiator on the driver's side. There's a hole that's about an inch and a half in diameter that allows access to a plastic screw. This is the drain plug, you can remove it completely to allow the coolant to drain faster. Make sure the engine is not hot as coolant can be boiling temperature and will burn you if not allowed to cool down. Remove the radiator cap to allow air into the system so the coolant will drain faster as well.

I just did this on my 2000 MPV. Open the rear hatch and remove the two screws. To remove the assembly it needs to be pushed straight out to the side (not towards the back as one would think). Some force may be required to remove it as there are two posts that are held by clips, one on the bottom and one on the top. I actually held it with one hand and hit the back of it sideways with the other hand, freeing the bottom first and then the top, being careful not to twist the thing. Next remove the light socket and replace bulb. Then reassemble.

Somewhere in the exhaust system, and sometimes there are more than one. In a Mazda MPV you should have one in each exhaust manifold and another one downstream from the catalytic converter. (It could be worse: on a Porsche Boxster there's one per cylinder.)

blown head gasket!

1990 Mazda MPV with 3.0 (V6) engine. The fuel pump is located under the middle seat. You have to remove the middle seat then lift up the carpet to access the access plate. Remove the access plate bolts to access the electric in-tank fuel pump.

Not sure what you are asking, but mine has come on sometimes too. It records the reason for the light in the computer, which is read with a special plug in reader under the dash. The mechanic can then look up the codes for cause and diagnosis.

Generally from my customer experience (not a mechanic), if it stays on and does not reset itself, take it in for diagnosis. This is especially true if it starts flashing. Mine were a series of ignition coil failures, that reset a couple of times and the the part failed for good (no power and risk of further damage). The coils are a pain because they are $100 + each, and 3 of 6 are located under the back of the engine under the spark plugs and are not self serviceable.

If one fails in the backside, be sure to change the plugs (and any newer coils from the front), cause it's a 2-3 hour job to get at them.

These is not complete and anyone that has any more, please add. Mazda5, Chevy Impala (some models), Buick Lacross (some models), Ford Crown Victoria, Ford Taurus (some models but only till 08), Ford Taurus X, Then you have quite a few Pickups too, and I didn't include the SUV's and Minivans that have a 3rd row seat. YZB

The Mazda MPV service repair manual for 2000-2001 can be downloaded from a website called 2 Shared. Another site that has it is 4 Shared.

The check engine light normally comes on at certain mileage intervals. For example: when it's time to change the timing belt (96,000km). Under the dash you should be able to locate a plug near the steering column. Beside it there should be another empty connector. Switching over to that empty connector resets the light until the next mileage interval.

You are gonna have a rough idle and a loss of power but its still drivable

It's Hot! It needs to be to work properly.

Raise the vehicle with a jack and remove the front passenger tire. Then, loosen the crank bolt and the water pump nuts. Remove the air-conditioning belt and the crank pulley, and timing belt. Remove the bolts from the water pump and then the pump itself. Be sure to clean the area around the mount. Replace gaskets and install the new pump. Replace all hardware that had been removed in order to access the pump. It is recommended that a manual be used to assure that all hardware is removed and replaced correctly.

I have a Mazda MPV v6 2000 model, right hand drive from japan, I read a couple of webpages and started to remove all seats etc when I realised I could save hours another way

It is easier to get a very sharp stanley knife and cut an access flap in the undercarpet between the front seat and the second row seat, (where your feet are when you are sitting in the second row seat) THIS WILL SAVE HOURS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING SEATS ETC. and the flap will not be noticed as it is covered by the removable top carpet, If you need help, email me on raymunt@gmail.com.After doing that unscrew 4 screws to remove the cover, disconnect the 2 fuel lines by squeezing the retaining clip and pulling the pipes off, remove the electrical connection carefully by easing the retaining clip and pulling the connector off, clean all around the unit so dirt does not go into your tank, unscrew all the small screws and lift out the pump and filter unit. I takes longer to cut the carpet and underlay than remove the pump. To remove the tank, after the top unit is disconnected, remove the big filler rubber pipe and two small ones above it, unscrew 5 bolt and it drops out so easily. I siphoned my fuel out first through the filler pipe on the tank after removing the rubber pipe. it took me about two hours to clean out the tank and replace but next time it will take less than 30 minutes because of that access hole in the carpet. I have a few photos but do not know how to put them on this site

Buy a Chiltons or Haynes service manual for a 98 ford contour. Same engine.

No, they aren't. The second row are larger (same as front seats) and the posts are further apart.

That particular make and model of car does not have a block heater!

You'll have to remove the transmission oil pan to drain the transmission fluids. To do that, you'll have to initially remove all but two of the bolts that holds the oil pan. The two bolts has to be on opposite sides of each other. Once you get all the other bolts removed, slowly loosen one of the two remaining bolts and try to separate the fluid pan away from the transmission. When you do this, fluid will start to come out and you should have a pan underneath the transmission to catch the fluid. Allow the fluid to drain slowly and keep lowering one side of the pan by loosening the bolt. When most of the fluid is out, loosen the other side bolt and lower that side of the pan. Remove both bolts and lower the oil pan level to prevent spilling fluid over yourself until it is completely off of the transmission. Clean the oil pan thoroughly and do not forget o clean the magnet that's in the transmission oil pan. Remove the the three bolts that holds the transmission filter and replace the filter with a new one. Remove the old oil pan gasket and make sure the parting surface is clean before installing a new gasket. Reinstall the oil pan and torque the bolts accordingly. Service the transmission with new fluid and you're ready to go.