Mazda MX-3

This is an easy procedure to perform. Front disk brakes first. I found it faster to replace the front rotors with new OEM rotors purchased from AutoZone (Save the old rotors to be resurfaced later for next time). Also purchased ceramic pads from AutoZone. The rear rotors I had to purchase from NAPA Auto parts because AutoZone does not stock them. But purchased rear pads from AutoZone. Back to the procedure; Loosen front wheel lug nuts. Jack up wheel (be sure to use jack stands for safety). remove wheel. Use 3/8 ratchet and socket to remove caliper slide bolts. Unfortunately the brake line is too short to "flip out" the caliper and pads. Therefore it is necessary to remove the caliper brake mounting bolts (two) and remove the whole assembly. Set the assembly on the suspension control arm to make the assembly easy to work on. Remove the old pads. This time may be a good time to retract the caliper piston. Use a large adjustable "C" clamp and carefully insert a flat wrench between the "C" clamp and piston (to protect the piston) and screw the "C" clamp until the piston is retracted flush with the caliper. REMOVE THE ROTOR: There are two flat head "Phillips" screws that must be removed that hold the rotor to the spindle. Next: Use a 6mm metric bolt for a "Jack screw" in the 6mm hole provided to remove the tight rotor on the spindle. Clean off any dust and loose dirt and rust. Install the new rotor (degrease it with gasoline first). Install and tighten the two flat head screws. Carefully install the caliper and new pads (don't forget the shims on the new pads). Reinstall the bolts and tighten them. Replace the wheel and nuts. lower wheel and tighten lug nuts. REAR BRAKE ROTORS AND PADS: Jack rear wheel (use jack stands for safety). Remove wheel. Remove brake caliper. Remove pads. Remove caliper mount (two bolts). Remove rotor as done in the front (it is necessary to hold the spindle from turning. Do this by jamming a breaker bar between the lug studs when loosening the flat head screws). Retracting the piston is done differently due to the mechanical emergency brake attachment. Look at the piston. Note the dimples that look like an hour glass on the piston. Use a stout pair of long nosed pliers and turn the piston clockwise. Screw it down until it is flush with the caliper. use reverse procedure to reinstall everything. Pump the brakes up before driving off. That's it! You're all done.

it's located right under the back seat. There should be two clips on the left and right of the seat right where the floor board and seat meet. Unclip the seat remove the black guard and the top of the fuel sending unit should be visible.

Time setting

1. Press the CLOCK button until a beep

sounds, and "12Hr" and "24Hr" will be

displayed.

2. Press the SET button to switch between

"12Hr" and "24Hr" displays. The

selected display will flash.

To select the desired clock setting,

press the CLOCK button again while

the preferred setting is flashing.

3. "Hr. ADJUST" will be displayed next,

and the hour portion of the display will

flash. Press the SET button to set the

hour, then press the CLOCK button.

4. "Min. ADJUST" will be displayed

next, and the minutes portion of the

display will flash. Press the SET button

to set the minutes, then press the

CLOCK button.

NOTE

For trip computer-equipped vehicles,

press the INFO button instead of the

SET button when setting the time.

about 2302 ft/lbs

You don't. The timing belt should have a spring loaded tensioner which pulls on the belt to adjust tension.

You will have to go underneath your car to fill it up. Look for the transmission. On it there will be to large plugs. One is the drain plug, and the other is the check plug. The one that is lower to the ground is the drain plug, and the other is the check plug (which should be located on the forward side of the transmission). Take off this plug and then you can proceed to fill the transmission. It is full when the fluid is level with the check plug.

See the "online shop manual" at "www.mx-3.com" under "Technical". It's fairly standard with the usual Mazda quirks regarding tools, if you've done these before you'll probably manage it.

chiltons says it the number 23 relay in the fuse panel located under the hood near the drivers' side coil. i would like to know where the open circuit relay is myself lol

The manual transmissions on the Mazda Mx-3 series cars are filled through the speedometer sensor hole. Simply remove the 2 bolts that hold it on, pull out the sensor, taking care not to damage/dirty the sensor, and fill to the appropriate level.

Alternatively, there is a check and drain plug on the transmission, underneath the car. The transmission is located on the drivers side, beside the engine and the plugs are recognized because they are fairly large hexagonal plugs. The drain plug is nearest the bottom and the check plug (or fill plug) is up a little ways and facing the front of the car.

i assume u have manual tranny. It's GL-4 75w-90. I seen alot of people use redline, but myself, i use purple oil. It helps a little. If u need the location of the drain plug and fill plug, the drain plug is when u face the front of the car, it's on the right hand bottom on the transmission. the bolt face down to the ground. very big bolt... I think is 23mm bolt ( correct me if I am wrong please) and the fill plug is facing forward to the front bumper at the middle upper of tranny. It's hard to fill the fluid if u have manual. U will need a funnel with extension. It will take sometimes to fill it. If manual tranny, you will need 3.04 Quarts of tranny fliud. I don't have info on automatic. Good luck

check power steering fluid and check to see if battery is good

it is located on the mass air flow censor on the intake. it is connected right on the out side of it.It has 5 wires running to it.

under hood near battery. the flasher is near steering column

You can't. Mazda MX-3's have Hydraulic clutches which work like an on/off button as opposed to the standard cable based clutches.

the signal flasher for a 92 mx3 is not aflasher it is a relay under the dash on driverside its a grey box larger then all the other relays it says signal and hazard flasher relay on it it costs 89 dolars us new from Mazda dealer. im currently working out a way to repair withiut replacing it my ema il is mypowermobile@hotmail.com

Bad connection somewhere, switch, relay or ground.

in the hand part where you close the door theres a screw, take it off, pull the assembly from the top by the window switches, when it comes out the wires will follow, disconnect the harness, and replace with the new power switch. (note this is the drivers side)

Oil should beclanged every 3k miles . Radiator fluid every 3 years. trans fluid could last as long as 5 years ..remember oil brakes down depending on the mileage you drive. if the car is stored, oil that sits will break down much slower but it will also accumulate moisture witch is worse. all other fluids in any carl should be replaced no more than 5 years. over time you will notice the difference when you have new brake and trans fluid. Good luck

there is no such thing as clutch fluid

He means the fluid for the clutch master cylinder resovoir. Its just to the side of the brake fluid resovoir and usually takes dot-3 brake fluid, just twist off the cap and poor it in.

All clutches are replaced the same, you must separate the engine from the transmission, unbolt the old one from the pressure plate and place the new one on and align it with the alignment tool ( many new clutches come with one or you may need to buy one) and torque the bolts down. ( before assembly you may want to replace the pilot bearing/bushing it is in the center of the pressure plate). Next you replace the throw out bearing and reassemble the engine and trans. A Haynes manual will have detailed instructions and photos to help you, I strongly suggest that you get one.

Idle Sensor might be no good

Spark plugs also will cause this....

if by a five speed, you mean a standard shift grannie, then yes. Mazda says not to tow with the rear wheels on the ground (including a tow truck). Either put dollies under the rear tires and tow normally or I back mine onto a tow dolly and tow it backwards. As long as the drive wheels are not on the ground you're fine. I've seen lots towed behind RV's with all four on the ground. But like I mentioned Mazda says no. warning when towing in reverse like I do you MUST secure the steering whell the locking mechanism does not lock befor the wheels turn. I towed mine about a mile then saw it in my mirror going down the road at an angle.

Theoretically the rotary engine could last up to 200k miles but it depends on how hard you drive the engine

When you pop the hood, feel behind the light casing for the light - the easiest thing to feel for is the round plastic piece that I think is supposed to act like a nut... I wasn't brave enough to pull on the plastic piece, just in case, so I reached in a bit further to grab the acual light and pull it out of place. Pull off the old light, put in the new one and replace everything where you found it ;)

because your choke may be partly on. == == It could be the centrifugal clutch, it may need adjusting to fully engage at a higher RPM

your engine could be a little cold. my 49cc scooter does the same thing if i just start it and then go. let it run for a minute then try. Your carb could be out of adjustment.Turn the adjusting screw in till my motor revs a little then back it out some but not to much just got to play with the settings to get it right not hard at all, maybe even check the fule filter it could be clogged or cracked.