Mazda Protege

On 1.6L, it is easiest to do it from under neath. all you need is 14mm socket and a ratchet to turn it. If you are underneath car looking up towards the power steering pump you should be ably to see the tensioner bolt on it. Loosen the nut that clamps the tensioner slider and the power steering pump pivot bolt that is to the left of it. No need to remove these, just loosen them off. Turn the power steering bolt counter-clockwise until there is about a 15mm gap between the bolt head and the tensioner bracket that it normally pushes on. You will need to pull down on the power steering pump until the tensioner belt contacts the tensioner again. There should be enough slack to remove the belt. if not turn the tensioner bolt out further and pull down more. Do not remove the tensioner bolt! It will be difficult to reinstall and there is just no reason to. Install the new belt, and tighten the tensioner by turning it clockwise. Tighten until there is approx. 5-10mm of deflection on the longest span. Do not over tension. Now tighten the tensioner clamp nut and pivot bolt. Start the car. Holding the accelerator at part throttle, turn on the a/c (if you have it,) and turn the steering briskly from lock to lock. If no squeaking is heard and the steering is smooth then you are done. If it's squeaking and/or shuddering, then you need more tension. Follow the same procedure as for installation except the belt removal part. Good luck

Among other reasons, a pulley or a belt might be broken/damaged.

"All US/Canada Protegé's and some Mazda3's to date are built at the Hiroshima plant at Ujina, Hiroshima, Japan.

Protegé 5's and some Mazda3s are built at the Hofu 1 plant near Yamaguchi, Japan.

If people tell you the Protegé is built in the US, they are wrong.

Only the old Ford Escorts and Mercury Tracers (which were BG based) were built in Michigan and Mexico."

Answer courtesy of protegefaq.net

Front Disc: 1) Jack up car and take off the wheel. 2) Remove the 2 slider bolts that mount the caliper to the bracket. 3) Carefully slide that caliper back, the brake pads should come with it. Ensure any shims that are insatlled are replaced. 4) Have someone hold the caliper or hang it on the strut using a wire (coat hanger), this is to ensure it is not dropped and the brake line is not damaged. 5) Back up the caliper cylinder(slave cylinder) using a 4 or 6" c-clamp. Just gently push it into the caliper. A good way to do this is to use the old brake pad for the clamp to push on. 6). Once the cylinder is pushed into the caliper there is now enough room to install the new pads (and shims if needed) and slide the caliper back on. 7) reinstall the caliper mounting bolts and torque to 29-36 ft-lbs. 8) reperform on the other side. Rear drums: Can be much more difficult and i would recommend buying a manual. You will also need a rebuild kit that has springs and grease. Also the front brake discs are easily replaceable if you remove the caliper mounting bracket and there are usually inexpensive ~$20-30 each. Or a parts store will usually refinish (turn) them for $5-10. If the brakes never were shaking at a minimum take 120 grit sandpaper and make circular marks on the discs to remove any brake glaze. You should also buy a can of brake cleaner to spray the pads and discs when you are all done.

Change the coils they should be two black blocks on top of the engine..the coils could have gone bad.

I was a mechanic on Mazdas for 9 years. Can't remember the particular model 1998, but generally, here's how to remove the starter on a 90's Protege:

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit.

There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on.

I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient.

Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid.

Re-install in reverse order.

Its in the middle of the block and an inch or two down from where the head meets the block. Alternately, You can follow the wire to it, which is clipped in the corner space between the valve cover and the intake manifold (on the passenger's side of the intake manifold and towards the firewall from the valve cover). It should be the only wire on the side leading to the block.

The map sensor is on the passenger side near the shock tower. Make sure the plastic nipple isn't snapped off.

GL-4 or GL-5 (75w90 all temp). (80w90 above 50deg F environments)

First remove the two screws in the plastic cover surrounding the gauges. This piece snaps out, be gentle!! Then remove the 2 screws at the base of the gauges, also there is 1 screw at the top of the gauges. Then pull the gauges out, disconnect the three wiring harnesses. Thats it. simmpler then it sounds. Good luck

A diagram of a 2000 Mazda Protege engine is available through service repair manuals. The manuals are available in either print or PDF form.

Rates vary. Get a quote from a mechanic.

please send to my e-mail address dagrinch20022000@yahoo.com

i like interstate batterys have them in both my cars

The ABS and brake warning lights will come on in a vehicle when an error is detecting in the he system. This can range from low fluid or pressure to sensor and component failure.

Spark plug wire layout is also known as firing order. The correct firing order for the 2000 Mazda Protege 1.8L is 1-3-4-2 with a counterclockwise distributor rotation.

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repair procedures

Sephia [FB] > 1996 > Engine > 1.8 DOHC

REMOVAL

1) Reversing the battery connections will the rectifier.

2) The use of high-voltage testers(such as a magger) will damage the rectifier.

3) Remember that battery voltage is always applied to the generator B terminal.

4) Do not ground the L terminal while the engine is runing.

5) Do not start the engine while the connector is disconnected from the L and S terminals.

1. Remove in the order shown in the figure.

2. Inspect all parts and repair or replace as necessary. (Replace generator as one unit; do not disassemble.)

3. Install in the reverse order of removal.

REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the A/C and P/S drive belt, if equipped.

2. Loosen the generator mounting bolt and adjusting bolt.

3. Remove the generator belt.

4. Install the new generator belt and adjust it to specification.

5. Tighten all bolts to the specified torque.

Tightening torque :Mounting bolt : 27-38 ft-lb (35-52 N-m)Adjusting bolt : 14-19 ft-lb (19-25 N-m)

6. Install the A/C and P/S drive belt, if equipped, and adjust to specification.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the generator mounting strap and tighten the bolt to specification.

Tightening Torque : 27-38 ft.lb. (37-52N·m)

2. Install the generator and the generator drive belt.

3. Loosely tighten the generator mounting bolts.

4. Adjust the deflection by tightening the adjusting bolt. then tighten the mounting bolts to specification.

Deflection : (at 22lb.{98N})New : 0.22-0.27in. (5.5-7.0mm)Used : 0.24-0.29 in. (6.0-7.5mm)Tightening torque

:Bolt(A) : 27-38 ft.lb. (37-52N·m)Bolt(B) : 14-19 ft.lb. (19-25N·m)

INSPECTION

1. Check the drive belt and pulley for wear, cracks, and fraying. Replace if necessary.

2. Measure the drive belt tension with a tension gauge.

Tension

Drive Belt New Used

Generator 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39lb (9-10N)

A/C and P/S 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39 lb (9-10N)

3. Measure the deflection by applying moderate pressure (22lb, [98N]) midway between the puleys.

Adjust if necessary.

Deflection

Drive Belt New Used

Generator 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39lb (9-10N)

A/C and P/S 0.31-0.35 lb (8-9N) 0.35-0.39 lb (9-10N)

ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the generator mounting bolt and adjusting bolt.

2. Deflect the generator to achieve the specified deflection.

3. Tighten all bolts and recheck the tension.

Year, make,model, engine size & symptoms are always a help. Without that guesses are the best you can get.

It may be the shifter interlock. There may be a shifter release button in the shifter area or some information in your owners manual. Possibly the brake pedal shift release that lets the shifter only move if the pedal has been depressed. If that's not a solution you're going to have to get into the release and see what the problem is.

yes, some of them, but not all.

Spray soapy water on all small black rubber hoses on engine when running. If any place along any hose causes soapy water to "blow bubbles" the leak will be there. Old trick that may or may not work.

It could cause the misfire, but so could a lot of other problems. The repair time is about one hour.

Remove the rubber piece of pipe on top of your cam cover. it is the one connected to a hole with a grommet. unplug the pcv valve from the pipe. make sure you clean the inner part of the grommet. buy the proper pcv valve and reinstall connect it back to the curve piece of rubber pipe .

The Fuel filter is located underneath the vehicle, on the left side. It is in bracket, make sure you don't brake on of the clips, because it only comes with one kind. Good luck!

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