Mercury Villager

The crankshaft position sensor is at the rear of the engine where it joins with the transmission bellhousing. It is at the left (front) side, not far from the starter.

The firing order is very simple. 1-2-3-4-5-6.

A problem has been detected with the Antilock Brake System

It could be a fuse ( in my case one of the fuses wasn't installed all the way

suddenly ! ) a sensor , or some other problem

As long as the red " BRAKE " light in your dash is not on you still have

" normal " brakes

Trouble code P1320 means: Distributor Signal Interrupt

If the blower works on high speed, but not on any of the lower speeds, that usually means that the blower motor speed controller is bad. There is a resistor in there which can overheat and burn out. If the blower motor has a bad bearing (makes noise or doesn't turn as fast as it should) that would cause the system to draw more current than normal, and burn out the resistor. If that is the case, you can replace the speed controller, and that would probably fix the problem, but likely it would return in a relativly short time. Without vehicle info, a step by step instruction would be rough... But that is a place to start in you search. Hope this helps.

If standing in front of the car look in space after fans and before engine it is a round cylinder shaped part at bottom of engine. it has cable running to battery. hard to miss

NO , your vehicle is designed to run on " regular " unleaded , 87 octane

It is not cost-effective to attempt to replace just the CV joints. Rebuilt CV shafts are available for as little as $60.

Not sure which one yet till I start replacing them in my villager. But the two sizes that fit that model Would depend on where they are located in the vehicle. 5"x7" for both front and back of u got the side panel rear ones or 6"x8" front and back for standard tailgate speakers.

I have a 95 villager and it came from the factory with a block heater.Look around the headlights for the plug tucked away.

Your engine is fuel injected , so there is no carburetor

Knock sensors detect pre-ignition. (also called detonation, premature combustion) Which can occur due to over-advanced ignition timing, "bad gas", or underrated octane for the design of the car. Putting 89 octane fuel in a car that requres 93 octane will cause engine knock. As the engine vibrates, the Knock Sensor sends voltages back to the computer. The computer analyzes these voltages and determines if they meet a pattern that is equal to engine knock. If so, the computer reduces timing by as much as 5* to try and stop it. There are various flavors of Knock Sensors, typically the ones on newer model vehicles work both ways, if the computer does not detect knock, it advances timing slightly to try and increase performance. You will find a knock sensor on every vehicle sold today, and on most older cars, as long as they're equipped with an ECU.

The crankshaft position sensor is at the rear of the engine where it joins with the transmission bellhousing. It is at the left (front) side, not far from the starter.

If your C/V boots are torn, it is far preferable to replace the entire C/V shaft assembly, as it is both easier and cheaper. C/V boot repair kits don't work well, and actually replacing a C/V boot requires removing the shaft anyway. If the boot has split it is likely that dirt and moisture has entered the joint and caused wear already.

Because of the complexity of this kind of job, it is strongly suggested that you buy a repair manual that explains it in detail. You need to loosen the axle nut with the car on the ground, raise the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the lower ball joint, tie rod end stud, strut lower through bolts, remove the brake caliper, then you can tap the CV shaft stud back and pull the spindle assembly free of the CV shaft. The driver side CV shaft can then be popped out of the transmission. The passenger side CV shaft has a carrier bearing with three bolts holding the shaft to the bearing. Do not try to take the bracket off the engine, it is not necessary. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Your heat is cold, because the heater core is blocked. You need to "remove air bubbles" by "burping" system and/or replace heater core. Make sure you are not leaking coolant and add to the max line in reservoir. You can remove some air bubbles by simply opening up the radiator cap a turn, then let the engine warm up. With a warm engine, the fluid will be hot, so you should see steam. That is ok. You want air to come out and fluid to stay in if possible.

You can not "burp" a Villager, the system is not designed that way. Its far more likely they simply have a low coolant level. If the heater core was blocked, the radiator would be as well, and the car would overheat. I've never seen a blocked heater core on a modern car, it's very rare. It's also possible the servo that operates the hot air damper is not working, or the heater control panel switch that controls it is defective.

manualy lift brake pedal to see if they go out. if so check spring at pedal

It is mounted to the rear of the throttle body.

Passenger side of block just above the starter

you can't you NEED to have the old code to reset it!!

You don't NEED the old code you need the master code which is used to reset the given code! It is usually located under the dash on the driver's side on the piece of plastic that encloses your hood release. There is a small sticker with 5 numbers (provided that nobody has removed it) that is the master code. If you need further help drop me a line.

The front wheel bearings must be pressed into and out of the spindle/hub assembly. You will need to take the spindle assembly to an automotive machine shop to have this done.

The Mercury Villager wiper blade sizes are 22" wiper blades on both sides front and a 13" rear wiper. See Sources and Related Links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

That is just what happens. alot of cars have that. Once you go past 20 m/h they just lock.

it is in a housing on the passenger side of the engine. it is about six inches south-west of the distributor. go to autozone or advance auto web site and you will see the complete diagram of the location. the housing is held in place with four 12mm head bolts. you will need short extensions, flexible extensions to remove the bolts because space is very tight. when installing a new thermostat, make sure the little valve is positioned in a 12 O'Clock point. when i replaced mine, i used a real gasket that was held in place with Indian Head gasket sealant. also, insert the bolts through the housing prior to attaching the housing to the engine. i used a little glue to hold them in place. this will prevent the gasket from sliding off and the holes to stay aligned during the re-attachment process. finally, pay attention to the direction of the thermostat that is facing the engine and the direction facing the hose. good luck. i hope you have small wrists.

find the battery cable on the starter and follow it up to the relay. It is located in the rectangular relay box in the right side front engine compartment. It is named "Inhibit" .
Attached to the starter.