Mercury Villager

Open the rear hatch. Remove the two screws at the edge of the tail light assembly. Now, (and here is where it gets scary) pull gently but firmly on the assembly until it pops loose from the body. There are two plastic pins at top and bottom that hold the outside edge.

Throtle position sensors generally have very little adjustment,however,there is a setpoint were you would set a sensor.Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector. Look at the plug with the lock to the right.The top pin is A the middle is B and the bottom is C Make sure that resistance between terminals b and c changes when opening throttle valve manually. Loosen, but do not remove screws. Adjust TPS B & C to 1000 ohms with throttle closed. Tighten screws

You take the car to your ford dealer, this is the only way to reset the air bag light

I found a more complete answer on another page.

You would think that fixing air bag problems was some sort of trade secret...VERY FEW people will give you information on them. I checked my local parts stores for advice (NAPA, AutoZone, Advance, O'Rielly) The common answer is "take it to a dealer" because people are afraid of setting off the airbag. Unless you short the system out just right, or hit a sensor hard. You should be safe. Just take the common precautions of disconnecting the battery...which can lead to a code 52!

If you have ever ran your trucks battery down, or unhooked the battery to work on something, you might have gotten a code 52 on your airbag light. I couldn't tell you what years this works for, but I know it worked great for my 95 Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0L with Auto trans. I couldn't find this info anywhere! So now I am sharing it with you! By the way...OBDII scanners cannot clear ABS or Air Bag issues. Totally separate systems!

I started with a code 12 (loss of power to the air bag system) which turned out to be a blown 10amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. After replacing the fuse, I had worked on several other things inside with the doors open for hours and ran the battery down with the dome lamp. I then got a code 52 (loss of power to the secondary power source for the airbag which is a capacitor) I have read in several places that this is a very common problem with Ford after a loss of battery power. The solution was to "go to the dealer to have them reset it" Who wants to pay for an expensive dealer fix when you can do it yourself easily.

HERE IS HOW YOU DO IT:

Quoted from Mitchell (my observations after each step)

CLEARING CODES1. Only intermittent codes and codes that diagnostic monitor recognizes as being repaired may be cleared from memory. To clear codes, cycle ignition OFF to ON. Observe AIR BAG warning light. AIR BAG warning light will illuminate for 4-8 seconds, and flash fault code.

(Comment) Loosely translated - If you don't have the problem fixed, this wont work. Code 52 should clear with this!

2. Locate air bag diagnostic 2-pin connector.

(Comment) This was a fun one. According to the air bag wiring diagram that I also got from Mitchell, the Airbag Diagnostic Connector is located "Right side of Instrument Panel". The only thing I found immediately to the right of the I/P (between the stereo and Instrument panel) was a black computer with 4 connectors which is NOT what I was looking for. I finally found a blog that mentioned the computer for the air bag computer was behind the right side kick panel. Sure enough....there it was. Attached to the side of the diagnostic computer was a two prong diagnostic connector.

3. Connect a jumper wire between diagnostic connector terminals. Leave jumper wire connected until diagnostic monitor tone sounds (about 5 seconds). Disconnect jumper wire. Fault code is cleared.

(Comment) After doing this, I heard the loud tone and it immediately gave a different code, but I turned the key to the OFF position and then back ON after disconnecting the jumper.....NO MORE LIGHT!!!

Here's an additional variation: 96 Mazda B-4000 (aka Ford Ranger) has a pretty blue air bag module behind the right side kick plate. It does not have the ywo pin diagnostic connector (and so far have not found one between the I/P and stereo). It is suggested to go through the 128 or 256 key cycles (on and off) to reset the module and get rid of the Code 52.

Something else we found in the course of this investigation was that there is an airbag / alternator fuse in the fuse panel on the left face of the dashboard (facing drivers door), on our B-4000 position 15 with a 7.5 A fuse. The 10 amp fuse is in the black fuse and relay box under the hood (drivers side close to fire wall) the clip to release is facing the firewall.

We had another problem with a corroded wire going from the module to the drivers side crash sensor. I replaced those wires and have not had a repeat of that problem.

It has a belt. It is also and interference engine. Severe engine damage will occur if the belt breaks. Replace at 105,000 miles.

You either need a scan tool, or unhook the battery for a minute.

The fuel pump is in the tank, and the tank must be removed to access it.

If you mean the Timing Belt Tensioner, it is behind the timing cover, just above the crank shaft to the left. Note: even though too many sources say that the 3.0 liter engine is an interference motor - its NOT, it was designed by Nissan (at the request of Ford/Mercury) be safe if a timing belt breaks - I can attest to this- I have replaced a couple of broken breaks - no valve or piston damage.

DO NOT begin any work behind the dash or around the steering column unless the air bag system is disabled. Any random static spark could deploy an airbag. Consult a good repair manual. The main ECM is located behind the glove box above the heater. It can be easily identified by the yellow harness attached to it. You will need to remove the glove box and some of the lower dash panels to gain access.

Yes, the 1993 Mercury Villager was a 1992 Nissan Quest. The last year Nissan used a Carburetor on a Quest. Fuel injection system replaced the carburetor in 1993.

NO Emission control only, does not affect performance.

Under the hood above the transmission.

It could be as simple as dirty spark plugs. I would pull one of the plugs and check their color. If black it could mean misfire or too rich fuel mixture probably from a dirty air filter. If they look ok then disconnect the O2 sensor on the exhaust and see if runs better. You might want to drop by the Auto zone and have them do a reading on your cars computer for free. they will give you the error code that are causing the light to go on.

Believe it or not, the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Number one cylinder is in the left front corner as you are facing the front of the engine. The corresponding tower on the cap points directly at that cylinder.

There has been some talk that the Mercury Villager doesnt have a great cooling system, sometimes a bigger radiator replacement might help.. but either way you have to keep the coolant, timming, etc in perfect state.

The reason why it goes from normal to hot then back to normal is because that is usually when the temperature rises hi enouth for the thermostat to open up and lets the cooling back in circulation thru the whole system...

Many Ford and Mercury models have 'Torx' or 'star-bit' type bolts which you will need a special socket (or screwdriver, if you're a gorilla) to remove. These are available from automotive stores, or Seers-type department stores. Also, a C-clamp is handy to push the piston back into the caliper (so you can fit the caliper and new brake pad assembly back on to the rotor). A good socket set and a set of screwdrivers are also required.

I would start by purchasing a repair manual.

It is in the drivers side kick panel.

Both the 3.0 and the 3.3 should be changed at 105,000 miles because they have a timing BELT. While you're in there, it might not be a bad idea to replace the water pump.

1994 and later models use R-134a refrigerant. Previous models used R-12 which by federal law is restricted for sale to the home mechanic. Take any early model cars to a qualified mechanic and have it replaced with R-134a. You can buy a R-134a kit at any parts store and do it yourself. NOTE: Never add more than two cans at home. If the system is still not getting cold (30-40 degrees cooler than outside ambient) it should be taken to a repair shop for proper service and repair.

It doesn't have one. Transmissions have not had vacumm modulators for some time ever since the introduction of the AODE models in the late 80's. All transmissions are now controled by the computer. If you think the transmission is having a problem, it should be properly diagnosed at a qualified garage.

on my 2000 I disconnect the positive battery cable and press down the brake pedal for 30 seconds and that will reset it

You hav to remove the glovebox, the cover below the glovebox, and the console below the radio. This is quite ajob. after you remove all those panels you can see it and their will be ducts and a bunck of other stuff to remove. It is easier to remove these than most vehicles. You don have to remove the dash on these vehicles.

The knock sensor is located on left side (drivers side) of the throttle body. Disconnect the connector and then remove the holding the sensor in place. You will need a 12mm socket and long extension to reach the sensor. Positioning the new sensor may be the most difficult part due to an inability to each it effectively but it is possible. Make sure to tighten the bolt to no more than 15 ft-lbs of torque or you could ruin it. Once you have completed this, you should be all set but you may need to reset the computer to clear the check engine light.

It's in the low pressure line running along the passenger side of the engine compartment. If there is a connection there with a nut, it's inside the tube there. If the line has no connection, it is crimped in and that section has to be cut out and replaced with a repair kit, or a new line installed.