Mitsubishi 3000 GT

u can adjust the gear ratio of your car to improve its speed without touching its engine...but this trick depends on the road that you take... in any case, to really improve horse power and torque...replace the engine with a stronger one...or add up nitro - if you wish to.

Mice and wiring make good friends. need to find where they chewed it up.

.038 or .040 for a stock base/SL. For a stock VR4 the best gap is .030. If you have a VR4 and plan on running 16+ PSI of boost, drop down to a .028 gap. These #s do not match what Mitsubishi says, however, if you run stock gaps you will be more proned to blow-out. These are simply the best gaps, and I've owned both a VR4 and a SL.

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You have a leaky boot seal, and the spare wheel well is the lowest point so the water gathers there.

The 1994 3000GT came either as AWD or FWD for the North American market, everywhere else the only drivetrain configuration offered was AWD. Fwd models did not get turbocharged engines, and for the model year 1994 all trim levels of the FWD model had a 220/222hp dohc v6.

AWD models all got the 3.0L twin turbo engine, except for the Asian market which in addition got an N/A awd model with an optional automatic transmission.

Right hand thread

My Manual shows the relay to be under the Air cleaner assembly, mounted to the fender well. I looked on my car but can not see it easily. You will beed to take the Air filter box off and it should be right there under it,aligned at about the center of the relay box which is in front of the Air cleaner.

The switch is located on the transaxel. If you have a N/A 3000GT, you just need to remove your air filter box and it will be clearly visible. The part is available at Advanced Auto Parts for about 20$. Also remember to get a new O ring.

here is my technique for setting the timing on the first try. no one tooth off and hope it works crap! do it right the first time. you will however have to reset the tension(very important) a few times to get it right. once all your gears and crank sprocket are in the right place(with cam lockers,bolts,ect...)

1. zip tie the timing belt on the front most cam gear(front head exhaust cam) at about 9-10 oclock as if it were a watch dial.

2. feed the belt thru the hydrolic tensioner and crank sprocket.

3. feed the tb up thru the tensioner pullys and up over the rear cam gear. this is where you have to watch the timing marks(dots & arrows) and even though the gears are set with lockers you can turn them slightly with a 17mm wrench. if the lobe on the tb looks like it is past its notch then make it go into the next one with a SLIGHT turn of the gear. lock the tb on the 4th cam gear(rear head exhaust cam) at 1-2 oclock with another zip tie. zip tie the 3rd cam at 9-10 oclock. marks should still be in place.

4. finish feeding the belt thru the water pump. keep it tight! pull it up to the 2nd cam gear(front head intake cam). cut the first zip tie while keeping tension on the belt with you left hand use your right to pull the tb over the front 2 cam gears, and if the lobe goes past its notch, AT ALL, make it go into the next with the 17mm. zip tie the tb at the first cam gear, in the same place as the first zip tie, you just cut off.

5. your still holding the belt from turning the crank sprocket with you left hand right? good. you can now turn the tensioner pully to take up the slack in the belt. tighten the set bolt(42lbs) we will set for good in a few more steps.

6. make sure all marks are still lined up, if so cut the zip ties, remove the lockers, adjust hydrolic tensioner so pin can still move in and out, don't remove it yet!

7. crank the crank pully clockwise and watch your timing marks go around to the tdc marks 2 times, check the pin can it still move freely. if not, re-set the tension. this part takes about 3-4 tries to figure out that when you set the bolt to the 42 ft lbs it tightens the belt a hair(thus tighning the pin. it can be snug on the tight but you should be able to wiggle the pin in and out a bit). once you get this far, with the pin still moving, wait an hour, crank it around one timing revolution and re-check everything.

8. does the pin still move freely(tight side of freely, not to tight!)? good, pull it out your done!

never re-use a hydrolic tensioner with more than 30k miles! i never would use a used one at all myself.

if you done have the timing belt tensioner setting tool you cvan use some needle nose plyers that have a 90 degree bend. they have them at most auto parts stores. ive heard of others using a fork with a few tongs bent/cut off. hope i helped you! Jason

No, they are not the same.

Yes, this engine requires Premium fuel. Using Regular fuel will cause pinging and engine damage.

you should be able to, it would be expensive, maybe more expensive then just buying a vr4. To do it you would need the new engine, the turbo wiring harness, and ecu for sure. The transmission of the VR4 (aka turbo 3000) is an all wheel drive transmission, and the N/A 3000's are FWD. To have the car AWD you need to sap the whole drive train from a VR4, other then that your car will just be FWD.

Just had another thought--disconnect wiring harnesses on all affected units--replace fuse with an auto resetting breaker withthe same value, connect and operate each unit one-at-a-time to see which trips breaker == you will be able to track problem area and concentrate on that unit. may also be in wiring that flexes every time door is opened and closed, after time these wires may become chafed and may short to ground. Probably motor damage in one of the electric motors. Every time you would engage that motor the fuse would blow. If that's not the case, you probably have a damaged wire that is shorting to the chassis ground.

The problem is in spark, or fuel. Rarely the Crank angle sensor. ECU could be going bad too.

Yes. It's basically a straightforward swap for a non-turbo. Would suggest an upgraded (Walbro 255) fuel pump.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/my-6g74-3-5l-swap-webpage-240131/

The lighting problem is the same they run into on every other pop up head light fixture. If they don't pop up you have what is call an acuator,close to the head light frammost of them run off of a vacume system but the new ones may be electronic..First check to see if there is a fuse that controles the head light assymbly.In the fuse panel in the car and under the hood.if there is no sign of a fuse or relay for the assymbly then it is most likely a vacume problem..........most assymblys never go out at the same time due to accuator problems.

Check your power cables from the battery, Take them off and clean them and inspect them closely for starters.

There is an accordion button on the driver's side door. Look at the very bottom of the Driver's door and to the very right should be a black accordion button but 1 or 2 screws.

Sometimes when the screws become loose it will make the dome light not work. Just tighten the screws and it would fix the problem.

To test it, just open the passenger door, and if the dome light comes on that would be your problem.

change oil,plugs and filters (air and oil) is about all you can do, engine management should do the rest

6G72. Note it as a TT or twin turbo, because there is also a N/A model.

Generally at 100,000 kms check your service manual or ask the local mits dealer to be exact.

I would not attempt to put a twin turbo system on the fiero stock engine, as it will not be able to hold the boost. There is a company called designone.com they make single turbo kits for the fiero and they use Garrett and hks turbos, check them out.

its located underneat the dashbourd on passenger side consule panel.

The alarm itself is on the driver side of the car, close to the firewall. Just take the silly thing out if you can.