Mufflers and Tailpipes

Water is coolant!!! Pre mixed coolant comes with anti freeze and sometimes a rust inhibitor, other than that it does same job. Common sense being your guide. Do not use straight water during the winter. Varying ratios of water mixed to antifreeze will actually increase the boiling point in both winter and summer and is more benficial in summer in terms of cooling function. More Coolant/antifreeze less water (mixed) increases boiling point correspondingly. It is of greater benfit to use coolant/antifreeze in your engine because it prevents rust and corrosion in the various parts of cooling system and heating system (heater) and increases the boiling point. Check the coolant/antifreeze container for instructions on mixtures and learn from it.

u need to replace the heater core in your car

i have the same truck its nothing to wory about as long as its not staying on if it is just a sudden flicker when you accel, the CEL light is just a warn as a gas cap warning or one of your 02 censors is bad its a 60$ fix if you do it your self i hope this helps i also notice that i needed a new fuel filter these are just options im just trying to help

Starter solenoid defective. if you have replaced your siloniode and you still have the same problem just trun the key on ON then take a screwdriver and touch the two terminals togather quikly and it should work great after. Starter solenoid hooked up reversed or poor ground, low battery or corroded connections @ battery It has been my experience that a faulty solenoid or relay will only click once when you try to start the vehicle. A rapid clicking noise would indicate a low battery, poor ground, or corroded connections as stated above.

Most gasolines have a high water content,When they are burned in the engine the water turns to steam and goes out the exhaust.As the exhaust system cools off, the steam condenses and water can run out of the tailpipe

I had the same noise on my 1997 Volvo 850. My noise was from the rear engine mount( behind the passenger front tire behind the wheel well cover). The part should cost about $60. Good Luck. Derek Check for a cracked strut mount. Replacement is simple, but the parts can be costly.

remove the chatter valve

If the pipe is in good enough shape you can weld over the hole, BUT If there is one small hole rusted in the system it is a good sign the pipe is rotted. There will be many other holes soon. There are probably more holes than you know about. You will probably have to have an exhaust shop put in a new pipe for you.

No, it will just make the car loud.

I have an 87 Ranger and it is welded on.

There might be rules and laws involved in this, but generally when a pipe gets a hole in it corrosion is the reason and a replacement is cheaper and the correct way to do it. If the pipe had some mechanical damage like driving over a sharp object a weld repair is possible and can work fine. Nothing lasts forever.

Bad head gasket? Cracked Head? CRacked block?

smoke means fire. u obviously have an electrical short in steering column. best take it to an auto electrician

The air/fuel ratio for the carburetor may not be adjusted properly, the exhaust valve may not be seating properly or the flywheel key may be partially sheared which affects engine timing. A cheap muffler can also cause flames and backfire when going from high to low RPM because it does not provide proper back pressure for the combustion chamber.

I would think the engine is out of time or the spark plug wires are not installed correctly.

Carb is too lean, Common problem with Edelbrock. Buy a primary metering spring kit.

Dude, I had this exact same problem. 350 engine and the Edel 4b carb.

I was looking every where online for answer's and basically it could be anything from lack of fuel to timing to the advance on the carb. I tried everything, then i pulled off the valve covers and noticed one of the rocker arms wasn't moving. i turned the nut in the center one full turn and booooom it ran like a champ!!!!

I bet if u pull the covers that's your problem...

the engine is burning oil. blue smoke oil white smoke antifreeze black smoke excess fuel

It is considered to be so because it is disgusting and a nasty habbit.

Most people aren't attracted to smoke and nasty stuff like that. your welcome,

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It's actually a Cummins ISB, not a Dodge engine. First, you check to see if it needs cleaning.... this requires the Insite program from Cummins... trust me, it'll be much cheaper just to have the dealer hook it up than to try buying it and a version of Inline 5/6 or a NexIQ box with an OBDII connector on your own. Have them look at the aftertreatment history. If the last regeneration shows a differential pressure of more than 2.0, then it's a good idea to go ahead and do a DPF clean.
Now I'm not 100% certain of the system Dodge used on their pickups... I deal with these things on Class 8 trucks... for that year with the stuff I work on, the aftertreatment system is a four piece system - from front to back, it's inlet, Diesel Oxidation Catalyst, Diesel Particulate Filter, and outlet. You'll have to get the vehicle on stands. There should be four sensors which go into the DPF itself... follow the wires up to unplug them, and remember which ones go where... that's extremely important, or else your engine will derate from the get-go once you put it all back together.
On the trucks I work on, there'll be a clamp at the connection to the inlet pipe which will have to be removed... further up the exhaust pipe, there's typically a pipe clamp which will have to be loosened to allow some flex in the exhaust pipe in order to put it back together.
There's two ways to take out the aftertreatment system - you can either take it out piece-by-piece, or leave it together as a single unit (you'll want a small transmission jack like the one Harbor Freight sells for ~$70 - $80 for this.... it's adequate for the ones I work on, and it'll work fine for your Dodge).
On the pre-2012 models I work on, the aftertreatment system is held in place by bolts at the inlet and outlet - if they resist, DO NOT TRY FORCING THEM - they break, and you're in for a time getting them out of there. Before you try loosening those, I suggest you give them a liberal bathing in penetrating oil (IMO, the best is PB Blaster... Liquid Wrench and WD40 are kinda... crap, I think).
Each section will be held together to the next with a clamp... take those off to separate the sections from each other. Inspect the inlet and outlet for cracks and damage. Inspect the DOC for the same, plus any flaking off or cracking of the DOC face.... the DPF, ensure that it's not cracked... you can blow it out with compressed air.... I like to use a 1/2" line with an open male connector.... and you need a serious air compressor for this, as well... don't go thinking you'll clean a DPF with a the blower function of your shop vac or your little 3 gallon compressor you bought from Auto Zone.
You'll see black soot... you'll see some grey soot, as well.... if you see large clouds of grey soot, chances are, you'll need to replace the DPF, as that's typically a sign of deterioration of the inner portion of the DPF.
Once you've got it all cleaned out, you'll need to take a wire brush and clean off the remnants of the gaskets from all mating surfaces... you can use a manual brush, or a wire brush on a die or angle grinder for this.
Clean everything off, then you put it back together, being sure to replace the gaskets as you reassemble the aftertreatment system.... it helps to buy some 3M Super 77 adhesive to use on the gaskets, as well - especially when reinstalling the DPF into the vehicle. Replace all sensors you removed. Then you put it back in the vehicle... again, the transmission jack is handy for this.
As you move to reconnect the at the aftertreatment inlet to the exhaust pipe, you'll see exactly why you want the exhaust pipe to be loose. Don't actually clamp down the exhaust pipe until after you've tightened the mounting bolts.
So we go back again to where you need the Insiste software... after servicing an aftertreatment system, you want to do a forced regeneration. Before doing this forced regeneration, you'll want to replace the gasket an insulator on the dosing injector. But before you put the new insulator and gasket on, you'll want to leak test the dosing injector, and again, you'll need Insite for that.
You'll also want to replace your air filter before doing the forced regen, and you'll have to reset the aftertreatment system under the "Aftertreatment Maintenance" tab on Insite.

Keep in mind that not every aftertreatment issue or engine derate is going to be the result of the DPF needing to be cleaned... a leaking dosing injector, bad aftertreatment differential pressure sensor, bad temperature or NOX sensors on the aftertreatment system... all of them are possible problems you're having.

The cost to replace a muffler on a 1995 Honda Civic typically ranges from $100 to $300, depending on factors like the type of muffler (OEM vs. aftermarket), labor costs, and the shop's location. If you opt for a custom or performance muffler, the price could be higher. It's advisable to get quotes from multiple mechanics to find the best deal.

No. It has to be a tight seal though, but welding isn't required. Flange or sleeve fittings are also OK as long as they are tight.

Oil in the combustion chamber. Could be a sign of worn out piston rings.

The Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) on a Transit exhaust system is typically located between the engine and the exhaust system, often integrated into the exhaust pipe. It is designed to capture and reduce soot and particulate matter from diesel engine emissions. Depending on the model year and design, it may be positioned close to the engine or further down the exhaust line, but it is generally found in the middle section of the exhaust system.

It would not be practical to do it that way since sizes are different it's made of different materials and is more expensive. Just go to any muffler shop and they will do it the cheapest.

It means you have a blown head gasket. Do not drive this vehicle even if it does start or you will destroy the engine if it is not already destroyed. Seek professional help.