OBD2 was first used in 1996 so I think your 91 Areostar would be OBD1

nope -- before 1992 - it was called obd0 or non obd :)

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Howdy - just did an alternator change out yesterday, without the benefit of a maual or instructions; it took four hours ! Hope the following helps you... First thing, disconnect neg. battery wire. There is not enough room to pull the alternator out unless you remove a fan housing first. There are two bolts/screws near the top of the radiator which hold the fan assembly to the radiator housing, nearest to alternator (there is a set of two - don't need to pull out both assemblies ); there are no fasteners on the bottom, just a single pin in the middle of the assembly at the bottom. Disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator and swing away to allow the fan assembly to be pulled straight up; take care not to bung up the fins on radiator. Unplug the electrical connection to fan, first before pulling... Once the assembly is out of the way the rest of it comes easy. Tip: place a heavy piece of cardboard or masnonite next to the radiator so that you won't bend any fins while working under there. The serpentine belt must be loosened to clear the pulley from the belt. Loosen the bolt in the middle of idler pulley; once loosened it can slide to allow the belt to taken off of the pulley. There are two bolts on the bottom of the alternator and one on top, one plug connection an a ground wire. The plug on the alternator has a clip that must be pulled out before it can be unplugged - I used a small screwdriver to unhook it. Once everthing is back together, there is a hex head at the end of the long shaft which come off of the idler pulley - this how you adjust the tension of the belt; once the belt is adjusted, tighten the bolt in the middle of the idler pulley. Top off your radiator, a little bit of coolant will have been lost. Jim 12-31-05

Get a manual on your car and do the job correctly the first time..

I had the same problem. I took it to a mechanic and they told me it was the ignition switch.

I read this on the Nissan Forums and I tired it -and it worked! Open driver door

Get in

Shut door

Turn ignition to the on position The one that will go all the way, but not to start car)

Open door

Reach down with your right hand if your a rightty

Press the door ajar sensor button thing (7) times

Shut door

Start your car.....

You gotta do it a few times to get it right. The faster you do it the more chances it has to reset. If you do it too slow it will seem like it does not work. Make sure you take out the key forst before you start the process.

I got an MPV 2000, also had challenges identifying where the engine number is. Had to call in a mech, but you can DIY, you can read the engine number from beneath the engine not too far from the oil filter, or somewhere very close, cos the mech didnt have any problem locating it, got the engine number out in a minute.

On top of the valve cover there is a hose coming out of it and into the air intake manifold. Removing the hose from the valve cover side will expose the PCV valve.

NGK Iridium, is the best set of spark plugs for 200SX

Alignment term. There is camber, caster and toe. Toe is wheels in or out towards each other. Camber/caster is just in or out top and bottom and is adjusted with shims. Any alignment shop can cheaply check and adjust all three.

The timing chain tensioner for the 1.6L engine? If so it has two. One is located behind the inspection panel located above the fan belt main pulley just under the valve cover. Two nuts and a six 10mm bolts hold it in place. It is sealed with silicone engine sealant.

Support the engine from underneath and remove the top motor mount for easier access.

Two bolts hold it in place. Auto parts stores sell it for around $50.

The second tensioner in found in the lower block area behind the timing chain cover/ water pump. That tensioner is made up of two components. The spring tensioner which can be removed from the engine easily. Remove the two bolts on the side if the engine directly behind the water pump output and it pulls right out. The other component is the nylon tensioner track or guide that actually pushes against the timing chain. That is the part that wears out and requires the cover to be removed. To remove the cover you have to remove all the 10 mm bolts including the two in the top from the head and two in the bottom from the oil pan. There is also two 12mm bolts near center the cover near the water pump. Removal of this cover my damage the head gasket part that seals the head above to the cover. I have always pulled the head off the engine and replaced the head gasket when opening the timing chain cover. I don't know if it is possible not to without causing oil leaks by not replacing the head gasket.

Here is a link to a photo showing the upper cover removed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/92225127@N00/534508640/in/photostream/

No, it is fuel injected so the computer simply stops injecting. It does have an inertia switch which cuts off the fuel pump after an accident.

If you want to depressurize the fuel system you can remove the fuse from the fuse panel that powers the electric fuel pump and then just run the car until it stalls.

Check for a spring at the very top of the pedal itself, running from the pedal above the pivot point to the firewall. The spring is likely to have come loose and be attached at one end or the other but not both.

In order to replace a rack and pinion on a Nissan 200SX, you will need to remove the front wheels, the steering coupler, the power steering lines, and various bolts. You will then be able to remove the rack and pinion. Place the new rack and pinion in place, and return the various parts.

It is possible that the contacts of its electrical sensors might be loosely connected or dirt and dust has accumulated on them causing incorrect readings. Otherwise, if more serious causes are the source of the problem, then consider looking for a replacement.

Clutch prices use this link

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=244&PTSet=A As far as installation it could run anywhere from $80 to $200 dollars. If your doing it yourself cool! But if you have a shop install it ask them if they allow customer supplied parts so you can save money

• Look at the dashboard underneath the windshield in front of the driver's seat. If your car is newer than 1981, the engine number will be 17-digits long. If it is older than 1981, it will be 11- to 17-digits long. If you cannot find the number here, it may be located on the inside of the driver side door. If it is not in either of these places, continue to steps two and three.

• Turn off your vehicle and open the hood, latching it into place with the provided support mechanism. If your car was recently running, do not touch anything inside as the parts can be very hot.

• Lean under the open hood and look at the wide metal part, most likely located right in the middle. This is the engine. On top of the engine, your engine number should be engraved into the metal.

• If you don't want to look under the hood, check the car's registration, if you have it. The registration is required to include the VIN number, and it should be near the top of the form.

drain the radiator, disconnect the radiator hose from the water pump. disconnect the water pump. lay down the seal connect the new water pump. connect the hose back to the radiator. its pretty easy