Oldsmobile Achieva

To change the water pump on a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, first ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Remove the serpentine belt and drain the coolant from the radiator. Unbolt the water pump from the engine block, clean the mating surfaces, and install a new gasket with the new pump. Reassemble everything by reversing the steps, refill the coolant, and reconnect the battery.

To change the belt tensioner on a 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva, first disconnect the negative battery cable to ensure safety. Then, locate the tensioner, which is typically near the front of the engine. Use a wrench or socket to rotate the tensioner pulley counterclockwise to relieve tension on the serpentine belt, and remove the belt. Finally, unbolt the old tensioner from its mounting bracket, install the new tensioner, and reattach the serpentine belt before reconnecting the battery.

Yes, a 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva does have an orifice tube as part of its air conditioning system. The orifice tube is a key component that helps regulate the flow of refrigerant within the AC system. It's typically located in the line between the condenser and the evaporator. If you're experiencing issues with the AC, checking the orifice tube can be a good troubleshooting step.

After checking online Advance Auto Parts was the only one who listed a starter relay for this car.They do not show it on computer at store (only on website).It is mounted to radiator crossmember above the fan, you can trace the wires directly to the starter.Turned out ground wire from relay to crossmember was broken inside wire insulation causing intermittent failure to crank starter.Installed new end on wire and all is back to normal.By the way Olds dealer parts dept. also stated this car did not use a starter relay when it clearly has one.I hope this helps someone else as it was a pain to find problem.

It doesn't show up in the computer, and the dealer says it doesn't have a relay, because originally it didn't. The relay was installed as part of a recall. Trying to crank the engine for too long or leaving the key in the on position would cause the ignition switch wires to overheat, melting the wires and potentially setting the car (and you) on fire.

I have used radiator stop leak before in my 1996 Olds Achieva SC with the V6. I put it directly into the coolant resovor. It went in fine for me. This did not give me much help though. I would not recommend using stop leak. It will clog your heater core and then you will have more than the radiator as your problem. Fine a new radiator and replace it that is the best advidce i can give you.

i hate to say this i have done this myself but the bottom dash has to come out this is a time consuming job

The 1990 Mazda 323 horn relay switch can be found on the front drivers side quarter panel. The relay switch will be on the inside of the quarter panel.

I just did this job on my '95 Achieva about a week ago (“rear” is toward read of car; “front” is toward front of car): 1. Remove the negative cable from your battery (I usually remove the positive one, too) 2. You will need a long thin breaker bar with a 3/8-inch socket head. This is used to move the spring loaded serpentine belt tensioner. I had to make one but the better supplied auto stores have them. The square socket head goes into a square hole in the tensioner. Once you have the square head firmly seated in the tensioner, move your breaker bar toward the rear of the car. This will create enough slack to get the belt off the alternator pulley. Slide the belt out of the way and slowly allow the breaker bar to swing back toward the front of the car. (whew!) DON’T remove the breaker bar from the tensioner. 3. Remove the small plastic cap that covers the small screw post on the back side (away from the pulley) of the alternator. This will expose a 10 mm? nut that holds a small wire with an eyelet to the post. There are also a couple of lock washers. Don't lose these. (If you look at your new alternator, you will see the post is marked "BATT" or "BAT"). 4. Remove the bolt (15 mm head?) from the front alternator mount....this is the easy one! It threads into a “formed” shaft which is attached to a stud coming out of the engine case. Remove the nut on this stud and fully remove the formed steel shaft. 5. Take a deep breath….and maybe a drink of your favorite beverage. 6. The rear mount is the bear. A long bolt passes through the alternator mount, then though the alternator, then through a weird little bracket to which a bunch of wiring harnesses and a metal tube are all connected. There is a 13? mm nut on the back of this collection, and it is hard to reach because of the plastic bracket. I got to this nut via a long set of socket extensions and a u-joint extension; long enough to bypass the obstructions in the way. 7. There is also a formed (bent) metal bracket that this above assembly attaches to and is fastened at the back of the alternator. Remove the nut that attaches it to the alternator. Don’t drop any of these little fasteners! I usually stuff a rag beneath where I’m working to catch these little critters in case I drop one! (Whew!) 8. OK, the alternator should now be loose enough to carefully rotate it out of the mounting area and thus allow you to remove the electrical connections. 9. Lift it out of the way. Note that there are a couple of other unrelated electrical connections that may be in your way as you try and remove the fasteners from the back of the alternator. Disconnect them to give yourself some extra room….just remember to re-connect them! 10. Like they say in the books: “Installation is the reverse of removal” and essentially that’s true. Just take your time and work carefully. Remember the small wire to the alternator post labeled “BATT”. The nut the end of the rear mount bolt is a real pain to get started since it’s one of those self-locking nuts and is tight when started. 11. Once the alternator is installed, the breaker bar can be moved toward the rear of the car to allow enough belt slack to slip it over the alternator pulley. Now slowly release the breaker bar to allow the tensioner to create…..well, tension! Remove breaker bar. 12. Reconnect the battery. After I had the whole job done, I fired up the car and the alternator gauge still read low…..Guess who forgot to reconnect the main wiring harness plug to the alternator socket!?! Ok…one more time….. All said and done, the entire job (even with the re-connection just mentioned!) took about an hour and a half. Good luck!!

The "venturi effect", a principle used by carburetors, causes a decrease in pressure where the fuel is drawn into the air stream. The pressure decrease can result in ice formation, which seriously affects the way the carburetor functions, and can result in stalling. Throttle body injection is also prone to this problem.

It's more common during rain because of the relatively cool temperature and the high humidity level in the air that's going into the carburetor.

New "production" vehicles have a carburetor de-icing that can pre-heat the air under conditions that may cause ice buildup.

First of all, there was no 1998 Oldsmobile Alero. They released the 1999 Olds Alero in 1998, however. I've got the GLS V6 version of this guy, and for the most part, it's been a total workhorse (Engine and Tranny are SOLID after over 100k miles). I'm assuming we're talking about the same car. The horn Relay/Fuse is #21 - which (of the three fuse panels) can be found on the panel under the hood behind the cataytic converter. You can't miss the box, there's a platic screw that holds the top on. Once you've got it open, if you're standing on the drivers side of the car looking sideways at the fuse panel, it will be the upper-left most relay (or, if you prefer, the one in the corner that is closest to the middle of the hood). All I need to figure out now, is how to pull the sucker as it is getting all "Little Miss Sunshine" on me (incessantly honking late at night, waking me, and alerting the police.... eek!). Good luck!

Unless there is an access panel inside the trunk, then the answer is yes. Sadly, yes. In my 1996 Achieva it cost me about $700 to drop the tank and replace the pump. I was ripped off, I know, but the tank needs to be removed to get to the pump.

Check Vacuum lines Also I think there is a "plate" kind of deal on the top of the engine that connects the spark plug wires to the plugs (it lifts off in one piece) and sometimes one of these connectors cracks ( probably due to heat) and that may be the cause of your problem - niot running on all cylinders all the time

The map sensor is located next to the idler air control valve on the front of the motor on top. It has a vaccume hose hooked to it and one bolt holding it on with a bracket.

Look in the defroster vent. It is on the passenger side to the right of the vent.It is a small round hole it reflects blue when you shine a light at it. You can remove the dashboard strip near the windshield and pry it up.

The transmission sifter interlock solenoid location on a 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva is on the valve body. To reach it the drain pan and filter has to be removed.

How to set clock on a 1992 oldsmobile achieva

Do you ever try by pressing the brakes and then turn back off the key ti works, or press the release transmission button, and turn back the key