Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

take it off the tranny and take it off the back of the speedometer and pull it out and just reverse the process to reinstall it.

Either the fan itself is burnt out or the temperature control switch that tells it when to turn on is bad.

You need to replace the pins. Although answer 1 is not incorrect, it may not be necessary to make the drastic move of removing and replacing the hinge pins. Usually the reason for replacing hinge pins is excessive wear of the pins, and also usually if the pins are THAT badly worn, so also are one or both of the hinge brackets through which the pins pass. This condition dictates total replacement of the entire hinge. BEFORE REPLACING ANYTHING, I suggest trying to ADJUST the door/hinges. The door hinges are bolted to the door post with 3 to 4 bolts or large screws per hinge. Try adjusting by: 1. Open the door, and locate the hinges and examine the area right around the hinge. Sometimes, if the hinges have "slipped," you can see an "outline" showing where the hinge WAS located. Visual confirmation of slippage not withstanding, continue this adjustment procedure. 2. With the proper tool [a wrench, or a screwdriver] LOOSEN[only] the bolts or screws [all fasteners] on both hinges. Only loosen JUST ENOUGH to allow [when the door is almost closed, to within an inch or two of the latch post]to be lifted into proper alignment in the opening and with the strike/guide. 3. While holding the door at the proper elevation, carefully open it just enough to retighten the fasteners. There WILL be a tendency for the door position to shift on you, possibly requiring several attempts. However, with patience, you may be able to readjust the door, and prevent the need to replace the pins and/or hinges.

GM never kept those types of records so there's honestly no way to tell for sure.

first b sure tire/rim is balanced then i would look at the tie rod or a loose bolt or excess "play" at suspention/steering where they connect to wheel hub or is axle not locked into trans. thoroughly if none help u may have a bent hub assbly. "a frame"hope this helps

A rebuilt motor if done right is just as good as a new motor.

stand in front of your truck. now locate the first spark plug on the left of your engine. remove spark plug. stick your finger or better idea a screwdriver in the hole. turn timing sproket til piston is at top of shaft. now put on timing belt and start her up.

Faulty Alternator?

As long as it is a B.O.P. transmission, yes. It will not bolt up to a Chevy engine without an adapter plate.

0.060" on the 307 cid engine.

R134a is the only freon for cars after 1994. Earlier cars can be retrofitted to R134a.

"pop" the hood with the in car lever. get a pair of pliars and grab the wire that the plastic hood release was connected to.....this should work!

I recently had to repair the rearview mirror on an '02 Nissan Xterra. It may be different, but perhaps it used the same technique. The mirror is connected to a metal "button" which is glued onto the windshield. In my case the glue had come undone and I had to remove the button from the mirror in order to re-affix it to the window. You can probably get the rearview off the button while still on the windshield in the same way. From the bottom of the housing there's a small notch where you can see the button and a small tab of spring steel. Use a hack saw blade or something else flat and long and slide it in between the tab and the button. Push it in around .75" until you bump up against another spring tab. Continue to push against it and it will release the lock. While pushing on it pull the mirror upwards off the button.

1 2 3 4 5 6 clockwise

I have 90 cutlass supreme. look under center of car for gas tank. should be on back end of the tank. need to jack up high enough to get at.

I have a 1999 Town Car with the same problem.

I had the fuel pump replaced, still had the problem, then replace the fuel filter, still have the problem.

Please help.

I fixed a 95 town car last monday. No spark and it was getting fuel. The ign. module is by the drivers side hood hinge. Went to pull a part and got a used one for $10.00 as a new one is $130.00+. Put it on the car ,started right up. Be sure the module is sealed from water getting on the terminals when you replace it.

On the back side of the harmonic balancer and onr bolt holds it into the timing cover

Buy 3 cans. Uses 2 1/2.

mostly any "old school' GM transmission that has the (BOP) bolt pattern will fit the 307 Olds motor.

these (BOP) transmission have extra bolts holes so you can bolt to a Chevy and bucik, Pontiac, and Oldsmobile

*** you can buy an adapter plate and bolt any engine you want to a 307***

BOP stands for Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac. They all share the same rear of engine bolt pattern and the transmissions will interchange between those brands.

Yes you can, i run 20's on y blazer. no questions asked. Ive seen 22's on a 94 blazer. so yea with no problem they will bolt rite on with no clearance problems.

"yep, I have 20s on my 2003 Monte Carlo. No problem."

Why in the world would you want to, the integrity of the handling and comfort of you ride is diminished. I can't wait for the next tire fad to come along. You should not go bigger than 17" or 18" on your car or s-10 unless you like it to look like a cartoon!

No! a 1987 cutlass is rear wheel drive, the van is front wheel drive....wrong offset.

That depends on whether you have a 2 or 4 door car. The 2 door car use a slim sealed beam headlight system (more on the later) while the 4 door uses either a drop in 9006 bulb for low beam or a 9005 bulb for high beam. I'll start with the 4 door as it is more common and easier to replace. First you'll need to disconnect the wire harness from the burned out bulb (with the headlights off of course). To do so you might need to use a small screwdriver to gently pry up on the retaining tab on the rear of the bulb. Next turn the bulb counter clockwise (looking from the rear of the bulb)approximately a quarter turn. The bulb should then be free to remove. Insert a new bulb by reversing the above steps being very careful not to touch the glass part of the bulb. It is a halogen bulb which burns very hot and by simply touching it you can transfer oils from your fingers to the bulb thereby creating a "cool" spot on the bulb. When you turn the headlight on the glass expands slightly because of the heat generated but it won't expand as much at the "cool" spot you created and this could cause enough stress in the thin fragile glass to cause it to break. If you do inadvertently tough the glass of the bulb wipe it clean with isopropyl alcohol before installing. Now the 2 door cars use a slim profile "sealed beam" headlight. It is not actually a true sealed beam headlight because all it really is is a 9005 or 9006 bulb simply glued into the back of a glass housing unit. I won't go into the actual mechanics of how to remove the "sealed beam" unit (you might be able to skip removing it if you want to take a stab at replacing the bulb only in place) but I would recommend removing the whole glass unit. Once you remove it you have the choice of buying a new "sealed beam" unit (rather expensive- probably 5 times the cost of a replacement bulb) or buying a 9006-low beam or 9005-high beam bulb. As mentioned above the bulb is simply glued into the back of the bulb. The glue isn't particularly strong and you should be able to carefully pry the old bulb out using a flat blade screwdriver or other suitable instrumental. DO THIS CAREFULLY OR YOU WILL RUIN THE PLASTIC INSERT. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BULB BASE because if you put it back in differently the wire harness might not reach. Once you have old bulb removed use some high heat silicone or other suitable adhesive and glue the new bulb in place giving caution to the warning under the 4 door headlight system. Worth a shot versus buying a very expensive unit in my opinion.