Pontiac Grand Am

You should be able to go under the hood and remove a cover. This should reveal the back of the light enclosure. Just remove the bulb and replace it with a brand new one.

More likely the temp. sensor. Yes it could be the relay

For all the 2.3, 2.4L QUAD 4 engines, the head bolts are Torque to Yield. The porper torque value is 30ftlbs PLUS a 90 degree turn of the wrench. The bolts must be new every time ( NEVER REUSE OLD BOLTS). The torque values and proper sequence are including in the box the new bolts come with. BUT honestly, the torque value is 65ft lbs like all GM Chevy motors have been for eons.

It will be on the Passenger's Side Fuse box, it should say FOG LPS

If you have the 2.2 single cam motor, it is located below the throtle body best access is between the fuel rail and throttle body.takes about 45 minutes,taking your time.

located behind coolant reservoir two bolts. on side of engine held by 1 mounting bolt

Put gas in it.

Leaks are always fun to track down (I'm joking....).

More than likely, the leak is on the driver's side. That being said, from a little experience I can say that the leak is PROBABLY at the top of the car, not down at the bottom. the door itself is dry....but what about the rubber/foam seals? Look (better still-- feel) closely. A bad seal can start a single drip that will fill your trunk if you let it. I have an '89 Probe that does this in the rainy season.

Basicly....look (and feel) everywhere. But...water doesn't "flow" uphill so if you start searching at the top and work down, then you may be searching for awhile if the leak does happen to start nearer the floorboads. Then again, if you start at the bottom, you'll probably have to "trace" the flow of water to the actual leak once you do find the river that's feeding "Lake Floorboard".

If you can't wait for the next rainstorm....try hosing your car down with LOTS of water. If water conservation is an issue, try using non-dtrinkable water (just don't lick the car afterwards ;) ) and/or wetting the car down REALLY well, letting it soak into the foam seals for a little while, then hose it down again. Then look for the leak.

Take Care,

Peter

Go here to find out. www.nhtsa.gov

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81246&highlight=jack+points

For the most part it's an easy task: find your belt tensioner(look for the square slotted pulley, a half inch drive ratchet), once you've got the belt off(make sure you remember the placement of the belt or draw a diagram) their is 3-4 bolts remove these and the wires attached and your homefree. Goodluck with the project!

take it to a good mechanic or a ford or merc dealer and they have to clear it for you

Turn key to on position with out starting. Pump gas petal to the floor 3 times. wait about 5-10 seconds and light should go off.

It is best to have the system tested for leaks, but if you really do want to add Freon, get a R134 can and hose kit from Kmart or Walmart, or Partsource. You need to be very careful doing this. Observe safety precautions. WEAR GOGGLES AND GLOVES and be VERY sure you fill from the low pressure side. You need to fill it from under the car, so if you can lift the front, or find a ramp or curb to let the front hang over, it's a little easier. Get under the car and find the compressor. The fill valve is close to the compressor. Unscrew the cap and judge how the hose will fit on. It's a tight fit. Now, get a 1/2 gallon pail of warm water (not hot). The freon flows best if the can is warmed. Mount the hose to the can, and start the engine and turn on the A/C to max. Verify the compressor clutch has kicked in. If it does not, the system may be too low and not engaging the low pressure sense switch. Probably best to get it checked if that's the case. If it is engaging, connect the freon hose to the low side fitting. Open the freon valve, and set the can in the warm water. After about 5-10 minutes, the can should be empty and floating. Close the freon valve and carefully (and quickly) remove the hose from the inlet. Let the freon circulate and check the A/C output. DO NOT OVERFILL the system. If it's still not cooling very well, you might try another can, BUT NOT MORE THAN the two. There may be other issues.

The brake master cylinder has nothing to do with the way the car runs. It certainly wouldn't cause it to stall.....Maybe the brake booster?

To replace the dome light on a Grand Am, unscrew the light cover. Pull it down gently. Disconnect the light. Connect the new light, replace the light cover, and replace the screws.

Theres a few ways, one you will hear a loud "roaring" or grinding sound when driving commonly known as a "roaring wheel bearing" another way is you can jack the car up and get the wheel off the ground and see if you can make it move up or down or back and forth "kind of a wobbling since motion" I hope this helps you.

That is because the seals that are in the transmission are hard when the trans. is cool and as the transmission fluid heats up the seals soften up and expand which stops the fluid from leaking past the seals and the trans, acts normal. IT is time for a rebuild.

£2.50 :)

buy the book on your car car.

I have a 1997 Grand Am Gt and as of 2 days ago the car was towed home and parked. Went through the same thing a year ago with the theft system causing my car not to start. You can try the 10 minutes on and off thing 3 times but it doesn't work. The only option is making Pontiac more richer. In my case, I'm ready to torch the darn car, I have dumped way to much money in it to have it leave me stranded on a yearly basis.

You could try finding an acc. fuse for the system whether in the fuse block or in line. The alarm runs through the ignition and the brake pedal.

Why wouldn't it? There is NO difference between a 1999 and a 2000, as of right this second i have a 1999 Pontiac grand am with a 3.4 liter (what your looking at right now) and built it from ground up. I know plenty about cars.

Use a scanner or try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

Warped rotor. Remove and have it turned, or replaced.