Pontiac Grand Am

Look under the car, passenger side, near the firewall.

Check the connectors to the injectors, use a piece of hose run the engine place one end of the hose in your ear and the other end on the questioned injector and hear then click, if no click probably is bad and will need replacing

Cant show a.pic lol

For the 3.0 V6 in order, 1-2-3-4-5-6

Try replacing any fuel filters the car has. If that does not work you will most likely need to put it on a diognostics scope.It would help to know if the car is cold, warm, hot, or any thing else it does prior to stalling.You can put that info. in my message board if you wish.Also if you choose to put it on a scope it will more then likely need to have that symtom @ the time of testing or the computer more then likely not detect the problem. Thanks WALSH

I speak with knowledge from my own 1998 Pontiac Grand Am, quad 4. Well, your lowside fitting is on the compressor and you will see a blue cap on it. The lowside is the red cap that you will see besides the water resevoir.

I will not go into specifics on how to test it as there are plenty of places to look for that. However, for me, the hardest part was finding that lowside, blue capped port. HTH. Chad

i have one myself..it does the power windows, power locks, etc

depending on which motor you have 2.0 in the valve cover 2.5 at the rear of the drivers valve cover

My 1999 Pontiac Grand Am has over 180k

Can be many things, but considering you just changed the intake gasket, I would suspect you did it incorrectly or have knocked a vacuum hose loose somewhere. You have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Is it white billowy smoke- steam, blown headgasket letting coolant mix with hot oil, hot enough to vaporize the water and send it out your tailpipe. this will foul the plugs so bad that it won't run, no spark plugs means no combustion and no go. Latte like goo on the inside of the oil cap is another telltale of a blown headgasket. as a desperate measure you can take out the plugs and checkthem out. if they are all gummed up at the electrode. you can try a little sanding or filling in the spark plug gaps putting them back in and trying to start it. or new plugs to sacrafice until you can fix it.

Is it black smoke? your piston rings are worn out, letting oil into the ignition chambers and that blows out your tailpipe. this usually clogs up your catalytic converter- part of the exhaust system- stopping combustion by depriving the fire of oxygen. you shouldn't knock the guts out of the Cat, it's poisonious (wear a mask) but it will get you going in a pinch

YOU cant ,, it has to be done with a obdII scan tool or dealer computer system ,,, you can get it done at an autozone or similar type store and they will usuallt tell you the codes as well < If the problem is fixed or little,you can take the neg(black wire) off the battery and wait 10 min ,put it back on that will shut it off,but only if problem is fixed or little or if you dont get the problem no more

Are you sure you need to reset it? I thought I needed to reset my 97 Pontiac Grand Prix...I kept having to disconnect and reconnect the wire harness under the ignition every time I wanted to start the car. I tried resetting the anti-theft system by turning the key to the "ON" position (just before the start position---in the "ON" position, the dashboard lights come on) and keeping it in the "ON" position for eleven minutes. Even after "resetting" it, I still had to disconnect and reconnect the wire harness in order to start it. After reading up on more possible solutions, including disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, I decided to get a better look under the dashboard, below the steering wheel. After removing the lower dashboard cover under the steering wheel, I noticed a shiny black wire, a little thicker than the other wires. It was just dangling there behind the cover. At the loose end of this wire there was a little black button. After finding out more about this button, I tried pressing it and holding it while I tried to start the car. The car started up right away. I took the key out of the ignition, waited about fifteen minutes just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I held the button again, and again, the car started up with no problem.the button had been mounted to the cover through the dash cover I had removed, but it wasn't visible until I got under the dashboard. I redirected this wire through a hole in the metal housing under the steering wheel column - a hole that I was only able to see once I had removed the lower dashboard cover. Then I drilled a compatible sized hole through the lower dashboard cover, just under and left of the steering column, that aligned with my new location for the thick black button wire. This made the button much easier to reach. Now I only have to reach just to the left of the steering column to hold the button when I start the car. I hope this can help anyone who is having a similar problem. All the other "solutions" I found on the web were possibilities that didn't solve my problem, although they still may merit an attempt if this doesn't work for you.

There is no adjustment on the chains position if it is the slack you are woundering about you have to read the book on your car a repair manual and it will tell you how to lose any slack you mite have

Any crankshaft is inside the engine bolted to the bottom of the engine block. Visually from the outside it would be in the center of the engine horizontally, right where the oil pan meets the engine block.

The best way to bleed air in any car's cooling system is to elevate the front of car so rad cap is the highest point of vehicle. Then just simply leave cap off while motor idles. Add coolant as necessary over the course of 30 minutes.

To install a sun visor on the driver's side of a 2000 Buick Grand Sport pry the plastic cover off with a flat head screwdriver. Place new visor and put the screws back in by hand.

there are two bolts one is under the power steering pump and a pain to get to it takes a 15 mm deep well and a long handled ratchet, then you have to use a wrench when the ratchet bottoms out. Once that is removed jack up car and on the bottom side of the starter ther is another bolt either a 17 mm or 15 mm. this one is pretty easy to remove. then drop starter and take off 2 nuts that hold on wires. make sure to put wires back on the same terminals they came off of or the car wont run and you will have to pull starter again

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine, it is the plug on your far left.

Is the car overheating? As a safety measure, the fan will come on when the coolant sensor is unplugged. This is in case the wires come unplugged or the sensor goes bad so that the car will not overheat. If you have A/C the fan should come on within a few seconds after turning the A/C on. The fan on the car does not come on simply because it is plugged in to the sensor. It first has to get fairly hot....something like 238 degrees before the fan will come on. This is a how a correctly functioning fan will work. If it is not coming on when the gauge reads above that you may have to take it in to find out why. It could be a bad sensor....likely......or that the computer is not reading the signal correctly and thinks the car is running cooler than it is.

first remove the black pull tabs and take off the black plastic cover (this lays across the front covering the headlights) then remove the headlights by pulling up on the two metal tabs on each end of the light (may need plyers) then look down under where the headlight were and you will see the foglights just twist the coupler that holds the bulb in and unclip the wiring and remove and always replace both at the same time

In the fuse panel located in the drivers side. Too bad this won't fix your window regulator problem which you're having.

Around 3000 lbs

how do you change an ignitoin swith on a 1993 grand am with a 3.3 liter