Power Steering

there has been a recall on power steering for the 05-2010 cobalt check with your local GM dealer and have it replaced

If your power steering fluid is dark brown it means that it has been contaminated. Metal or rubber has gotten into the fluid if it is dark brown or black. This can and will impact your vehicle's performance.

The pump is on the rear of the engine by the fire wall, clear towards the bottom of the engine. You will need a flashlight and almost laying on the engine to see it. Its a bare to check and even worse to fill.

The accident may have caused excessive force being placed to the oil/hose system that has caused a leak, it may be small enough that you may not be able to see it without putting the car up on a hoist.

If your talking wheel alignment something has been bent.

I have a 2000 Buick Century costom and I replaced it but it leaks what could be wrong

There are 2 possibilities for this depending on what engine is in the car.

If you have a 3.8 liter engine, the reservoir is hidden beneath the alternator on the backside of the engine. You can get to the cap and check the fluid level, but they don't make it too easy. Be careful not to drop the cap, because it can be difficult to retrieve.

If it isn't the 3.8 liter engine, then the power steering reservoir is right at the top of the engine on the left side (when looking at the engine from the front of the car).

take the oil cap off then pull plastic motor cover off

power steering tank is on the left.

top pully, nearest to the front of the vehicle.

I really can't emagine why you would want to do such a thing. The standard rack and pinion will have to be installed also.

any run of the mill PS fluid can be used in a Chevy truck/SUV. in a pinch u may sub in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid.)

It would depend on how long the Power Steering fluid has been in there. If this happen just recently you may be able to suction the fluid from the Master Cylinder . I think it would be best to remove the master and replace it, it appears that the steering fluid may have reacted with the rubber on the plunger in the master cylinder.

If this is a dual system , after you replace the master you will have to bleed the entire system to be absolute that there are no other failures of rubber parts in the system. There is always a quick fix but they usually are quick to get you in trouble. When dealing with brakes take no chances, everything is riding on them!!
Hey Buddy, you screwed up BigTime. Don't just bleed the Damm brakes. Flush the Entire System with Fresh Brake Fluid since what you put in there is like mixing Steak Sauce with Cinnamon and Nutmeg to make French Toast!! and expecting it to work! Please watch what you are Doing or else Pay The Price for carelessness. The chemical mixtures are Very different and Brake Fluid should be changed at least every 2 years since it absorbs water from the air. Power Steering Fluid is an entirely different mixture that performs entirely different designed for tasks. Good Luck!!

How do you change a power steering rack on vw golf mk4?

Look under the hood to the drivers side of your car, there will be a black jug with a top on it with the letters (ATF) This is were the power steering fluid is checked and filled. Note: This is not the transmission fluid fill spot. There is no way of checking the transmission fluid except by lifting the car up and opening the nut that is connected to the transmission.

According to the 2006 Ford Explorer Owner Guide :

( Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid is used as the power

steering fluid )

Think twice before attempting this yourself. I have a 1989 E350 as the chassis for a Telstar RV. It appears the steering pump has never been changed and now I know why. Today is my 4th full day of work trying to get the old pump out. It took 2 days just to get the pulley off the old pump, and the mounting bolts are behind the pulley. There is absolutely no way to access behind the pump to remove the either the high or low pressure lines, or the adjustable bracket that is also holding the oil dip stick. You will end up with very sore knuckels and have to remove the engine cover from inside the cab to access the last bolt keeping the pump in place.

Hints: If the previous mechanic didn't put some sort of anti seize lube in the pulley core you will be working the gear puller a millimeter at a time with a long piece of pipe for leverage. You will have to secure the pulley via an inventive arrangement using the belt tensioner and a long handled wrench since all other holding points are brake or A/C lines.

Ford no longer stocks or sells the needed pump. You will be referred to an after market parts dealer so you may as well start there.

well i ansrd my own qustn. On my 97 pont grnd prix 3800 v6 w a/c, 2 bolts hld the pwr strng pump on 1 on top and 1 on botm. Both r be hind the pully so feel for the bolts heads by putng yr fingr in thr cutouts on the pully face. i needed a 1/2" socket and 2" extndr to losen the bolds, pwr strng pump is free so i got the last bolt out to tke off my water pump.

You may need to purchase some power steering fluid. Make sure when adding fluid to your vehicle that you keep car running.

The XC BARINA has Electric Power Steering and the unit is located under the dash.

To check the power steering fluid on your 1991 Caprice remove the cap on the power steering pump fluid reservoir and check the level on the fluid level indicator. If the fluid is warm(about 170 degrees)the fluid level should be at the "Full Hot" mark. If the fluid is cool(about 70 degrees) the fluid level should be at the "Full Cold" mark.Always use the correct power steering fluid to avoid damage to the hoses and seals which will result in fluid leaks.

It should be noted that the reservoir (pardon my spelling) is located under the alternator (On my '91 with the 305, that is) - So you can't do it while the car is running.....Kenny

It is part of the steering gear.

It is part of the steering gear.

No !

Sometimes it is hard to get to the fitting on the pump and you have to remove the pump but is really isn't too hard.

I received a quote for $371.00 from a very reputable automobile repair shop. They assured me of the fact that it would take them five hours labor to complete this job. This is what I did today on my 93 Lumina. This is one of the most difficult lines to change. The angle of the line under the car is a nightmare. You cannot get to it from the top or the bottom. I tried using a line wrench and a crows foot. I could not get enough leverage because the fitting angle was away from me, and I had no room to work. I finally figured it out and here is what I did. First, I had to remove the belt in order to remove line from the pump. It's a single fitting and does not take but about five minutes. Next I had to get under the car and remove the bracket that stabilizes both the high and low pressure lines. The next thing that I did was to remove the top motor mount bars and pull my engine forward and brace it with two 2 X 4"s, as if you were going to change the spark plugs. The next thing that I did was to remove the transmission dipstick. (THIS IS KEY!), remove the rubber line (4") that goes from your air filter to your fuel injection system, this gives you access to reach the fitting. Next, I took a triangle file and filed the line as close to the fitting as possible. Once you filed enough to remove the line take a pair of pliers and break the line off. Once you've broke the line off, you can gain access to the fitting with an 18mm socket on the end of a super long extension with a flexible head from the passenger side of the engine. It took me less than a minute to get the fitting out. It's a piece of cake. Remove the fitting and then install the new line. You will have to get back under the car and have someone help you to guide the fitting to the correct hole. You cannot see the hole from under the car. Make sure that you start the fittings by hand that you can then tighten it from the top of the engine. Then tighten the hose on the pump end, and then reinstall everything that you removed in order to gain access. It should take about 1.5 to 2 hours. (BREAKING THE LINE AND GAINING THE ACCESSIBILITY WITH THE LONG EXTENSION IS CRITICAL) If you attempt to remove this hose without filing the line, it could take you five to seven hours. I hope that this helps!

It is the pan on the bottom of the trans and should have a tube going down to it from the engine compartment on the rear of the engine. The transmission dipstick has a bright yellow handle on it. Find it on the drivers side of the car near the back of the engine compartment. You can add transmission fluid down the tube. Only use ATF +3 automatic transmission fluid. Never Mercon, Dexron or "Universal Fluids". Or else!

It takes a special tool to remove the pulley and install the pulley. The tool can be rented from your local auto parts store.

Caution:On models equipped with Delco-Loc 2 or Theftlock audio systems make sure you have activation code * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Remove the drivebelt on 2.2L engines.Remove the air intake duct from the engine on 2.3L and 2.4L engines * Disconnect the inlet and out hoses from the power steering pump * Unbolt the power steering pump from the bracket on 2.2L engines or from the rear of the camshaft housing on 2.3L and 2.4L engines * Remove the pump * On 2.2L engines remove the pulley from the power steering pump with a suitable pulley removal tool * Installation is the reverse of removal.Tighten the pump bolts and fittings securely * Prime the pump by turning the pulley in the reverse direction to that of normal rotation until the air bubbles cease to emerge from the fluid when observed through the reservoir filler cap * Install the drivebelt * Bleed the power steering system