Subaru Legacy

The belt diagram is not under the hood on a sticker, as located on many other vehicles. Consult your Owners Manual. If all else fails, make your own diagram before belt removal. Cheers! On my 2005 Outback 2.5 the belts are (facing vehicle from front) AC on right and Alt/Power Steering pump on left. The AC belt is narrower and the Alt/PS belt is wider. The AC belt routes over the rear half of the crank pulley on left, AC pump on right, and tensioner pulley at bottom right. The Alt/PS belt routes over the front half of the crank pulley, over Alt at top right, over PS pump on bottom left. The AC pump tension is managed by a 12mm bolt above the tensioner. The Alt/PS belt tension is managed by a 12mm bolt above the left side of the Alternator. Good luck.

Well, to replace the ones on the back deck, you must remove the seat assembly in the back. To do this, just take out the two bolts on the front bottom of the seat near the floor. Then the front will lift out, and you will be able to access the bolts to take the back off. Once this is done, it is a matter of getting the deck cover off. Subaru speakers are under this cover. It pops out. There are plastic rivets, that are seen through the trunk. Look up near the wireing harness for the spoiler. Be careful not to break it though. I installed Sony Xplod 250w speakers. I cut holes out in the deck cover so the speakers would show through. It is easy once you get the deck cover off. Just unscrew the old ones and put the new ones in. The wires that came with my speakers plugged right into the old ones. Then reverse these steps to replace everything. I have not yet figured out how to replace the front ones.

By fits & starts, discontinuously, erratically, every so often, fluctuating, from time to time, infrequently, irregularly, now & again, occasionally, once in awhile, periodically, & finally my friend, SOMETIMES!

go straight to the subaru dealer...They will program it for free...

I took both my subarus to them...it was programmed in less them 3minutes...

(2) different dealers and charged me nothing...

Danny

There will either be a couple of knobs, (one for left/right and one for n/s) which can be manually twisted, or you may need a screwdriver. Same rules apply, just have the cars beam mapped (masking tape?) on the garage door or a wall before you start.

Well, I have a "90 Legacy. There is a red release button on the belt fastener riding the rail. release it and see if the fastener doesn't return to top or bottom. I'm not sure what causes this, but the above fix works for me. Just reconnect the belt (it only goes one way) and get on with your life. Hope this helps.

Could be you have a bad belt or belt is loose.. Also it might be possible that the bushings are worn out of the alternator

left side engine compartment . follow battery cables to the starter

Replacing the timing belt is a complicated procedure that is impossible to describe in this small space. The engine in your Subaru is an INTERFERENCE engine. As such if they belt is installed incorrectly and you start the engine you will do damage. I suggest you purchase Haynes or Chiltons repair manual for your car. It will describe in detail with photos how to replace the cam belt.

the difference is 2.... as in 2 years

well we can never know the population but species wise i would say about 20-30.

Read the owner's manual or park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Add 4.5 quarts of the correct weight oil and start the engine. Let it run for 30 seconds, shut down, and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark on the dipstick. You now know the capacity. DO NOT OVERFILL.

If it's the same as the 1990 Subaru Legacy, it is on the driver side way back next to the gas pedal (on the side where the hump is for the gears shift). There is a fabric cover that pulls back, then you have access the fuse box. It's not fun to get to. I did it once and have to do it again now... not looking forward to it!

I'm not a pro but just a gal who likes to fix what she can on the car. The fuses always seem to go just before a trip.

It's a 2.5 litre single overhead cam engine. 165 hp if I recall correctly.
Watch out for excessive piston slap, head gasket failure, and fuel leak smells in cold weather, with the 2002 Subaru Outback. I got rid of mine.

Replacing the water pump on a Legacy motor is fairly easy-- you just unbolt the old one, clean the gasket surface on the block, and bolt the new one on. Ummm, what makes this job tougher is you must remove the timing belt to access the water pump, as the timing belt drives the water pump. This then is a grand time to replace your timing belt while you are at it. Both these jobs (the timing belt and the water pump) require precision and attention to detail. Make sure to refill the radiator several times before firing the engine up, and recheck it once the thermostat has opened, then engine cooled. Legacy's make dandy air pockets in their cooling systems-- these pockets purge out when thermostat opens, then you are low on coolant.

Usally not. The only link I see is that these are usually on the same fuse. Ohm check the fuse. Also check that the dimmer switch just isn't disconnected or turned off\down.

-edit-

Possibly - I installed an aftermarket stereo on my Subaru Loyale (1990) and had the same symptoms you described. After troubleshooting for months, I discovered that during the stereo installation I fried the actual dimmer switch. When I replaced that, everything came back online. If the fuses check out, try replacing the actual dimmer switch. You can check this by bypassing the dimmer switch - the dash lights should come on full-power if this is the cause (connect the wire going into the switch to the wire going out of the switch).

I paid $700 for timing belt/water pump replacement for a full cam with 4 tensioners on a '99. The normal price the guy charges is $600 but since I had 4 tensioners instead of 2, it was $100 more.

Top of the radiator just like every other car.

Check the 1991 Legacy for a stuck thermostat. Check to make sure that the water pump is working properly.

in 100 degree weather mines loves premium appx 2200 feet 2.5 dohc

There is not one I asked a dealer too! If it's an automatice: Drivers side/rear of engine...It's about 3" from the firewall, underneath a hose...Yellow dipstick...

It is a BIG job. Unless you have a lot of tools and are a good mechanic, take it to a garage. If you want to do it yourself get a manual from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM.

dexron 3

There are 4 LED lights in the hearer control. One for the AC control light, One for the fan control and Two for the push buttons. To get at them the two screws for the cup holder need to be removed and the holder pulled out. The heater vent holder can be pulled out and the plug to the hazard you can removed - set this aside. Under the passenger side of the dash you can see the heater control cable which needs to be popped out of its holder and removed from the heater valve control. Four screws that hold the control can be removed and the wire harness removed. Heater control can now be removed. On the back side of the push buttons is an plastic cover which needs to be removed to get at the button lights, if you need to change the slide control light there is two screws on the underside that need to be removed. this allows the control arm to be removed slightly. You need to use needle noise pliers, it's a real pain. The AC button is removed forward not out the back and you can get at the bulb. You can get the LED bulbs at Subaru for a ridicules price of about 8 bucks (that Canadian). Why they burn out who knows. I tried the wreckers first but found the ones in that control were burnt out as well but I figured if I destroyed the heater control to find out what needed to be done it was worth it.

at the front of the engine , behind the radiator fan