Suzuki Sidekick

warped rotors(brakes)...most likely front ones

== == http://www.kick-fix.com/fusepanel-left-knee1w.jpg

this may be correct.

Owner's manual.

Fist step is to remove the top cover over the top of the engine, and then remove the ignition coils (one for each cylinder, and then you need an extra deep slender spark plug socket to go in and remove the actual spark plug. The ignition device is approx 5" long and just pushes into the top of the spark plug.

the answer if for suzuki sport 1.8L (you forgot to say motor type)

the 1.6L vastly more common

you twist the spark plug wire boot on to of spark plug , this is on top of valve

cover.

then pull

then out comes boot and wire

then you attach a spark plug socket to your 3/8" driver ratchet

then blow out the spark plug well with shop air so sand dont fall into engine.

if oil is inside well the Valve cover gasket is bad.

then unscrew the spark plug CCW

then with a 1/4" id rubber hose fish the spark out of hole.

some sparkplug sockets have rubber plug retainers and some times works.

yes!! of course, because the shaft is designed to rotate a certain speed, according to the car advancing speed.

# Remove the wiper arms by unscrewing the nuts below the protecting plastic caps. # #* If the wiper arms has been there for a while, you might need a puller to free them. # Remove the Windshield wiper cowl grille. # Remove the wiper motor. # An access panel is located just below the central wiper. You will need to open it to gain access to the pivot. # Unscrew the pivots. # Pull out the assembly throught the access panel and top access holes. KaZ_iKick

try to adjust the distributor.

The short answer- Poor 'staking' by the factory to hold the plug in place.

The longer, more complicated answer is that the plug is made of steel

and the EGR valve body is made of aluminum. Since the valve body is

exposed to a constant stream of hot exhaust gases, it tends to expand more

than the steel plug, allowing the plug to move under high exhaust gas pressures

and eventually work it's way out of the valve body.

If your Sidekick has high mileage (+100k miles) there's also a chance of a partially

blocked catalytic converter, which would raise exhaust pressures @ the egr port

even higher, resulting in the plug being blown out.

I've had it happen twice on my 96 Sidekick (1.6 L engine), and I'm ready to replace

it again. You'll find that an American nickle fits in the place where the plug blew

out and use a metalized epoxy to glue the nickle in place. This fix lasts about 2 years,

on average.

Hope this helps!

-Ric

Very carefully on 16valve engine or it will self destruct. it is not free running like the 8v. here is my procedure for setting an 8valve kick.. http://carfix.stufftoread.com/t-belt/tbelt.html on the 16V engine, the Cam gear has a E symbol, it must be UP. or go to your local library on line. log in with your card. then click E-sources. then click, ARRC , auto repair resouce center. behold. free manual on your car. any car.

no such , aNA mule

now were that one is an air vent

open hood, look up ,see vacuum map

see only 2 hoses on top

Yes

The Horn is right behind the grill on the right sode of the car. You can see it through the grill

Suzuki Sidekick has a cable for the clutch. No fluid required.

If it hard to push or seems to 'stick' then replace the cable.

made or maketed?

the VIN shows that.,

if not in N.America

the TAG on the fire wall next to battery shows that.

a Kick can be made in the Canadian Cami factor 2C (vin prefix) but be marketed for

Germany or Canada.

the same for Awata Japan.

the answer is in the VIN

on the transmssion, no matter which of the 3 (3sp,4ps, 5sp) its really a reverse switch, see? reverse gear engaged switch.

Under the seats

get an A/T radiator , much cheaper and way easier to find.

measure core size, height and width,

then measure nipples sizes diameter.

order by year, door count , motor displaceent , valve count and 4wd or not and the above.

you an get a real brass rad, for same price or less then an aluminum one.

because you failed to pull the DTC codes with a coder reader (OBD2)

and then correct this error.

pull the DTC code and post that .

get Huge response

It is set correclty when the crush sleave inside is set, during a gear setup. then it is checked with a Inch pound meter and will show while rotating roughly 5 inch # rotational drag.

I do believe that the hard tops for the years 1989 through 1998 are the same on the Geo, Tracker and Sidekick, and then from 1999 on up.

Most likely the speedometer cable (that works both the speedometer and the odometer) broke. Not unusual in older vehicles. Was the speedometer needle jumping around a lot before it stopped working? (Like, if you were doing about 50mph, did the speedometer gauge swing back and forth between 45 and 55?) If so, that was an indication the cable was binding up within its sheath...it would bind, the gauge would start to drop, then the extra pressure of the bound cable would break free, the gauge would leap up. Usually this means the cable didn't have sufficient lubrication.

I used to have Samurai's, not Trackers. Samurai's speedo was driven off a gear on either the trans or transfer case, but Trackers I think use a speed ring on the rear differential.

If you can get the cable out it's easy to tell if it's broken...twist one end of the inner cable and the other end won't twist. You may even be able to pull the cable out of its sheath.

You might want to try to buy a replacement cable off a junkyard wreck (making sure of course that IT isn't broken), and then go to a bicycle shop and ask what they use to lubricate bicycle cables (brake and shifter lines), and lube your replacement cable before you install it.

I'm really shooting in the dark here, it might be something completely different. However, having owned A LOT OF OLD HIGH MILEAGE cars, I've had speedometers break about 4 times. 3 were broken cables. The 4th was a broken speedometer itself, which made the most godawful screech and grinding noise I've ever heard in a vehicle, immediately before stopping working.

Good luck!

which one

there are 4 on a 1.6L

andn there are 5 on a 1.8L sport.

brakes or clutch.

let me guess you have a 1.8L sport and you want a new slave cylinder or to rebuild it.

first find a kit for it , good luck with that.

and any trip to the suzuki parts counter will net you a new one.

imagine that. l

PN; 23820-77E00

$58 smakerinnos

https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214330

The hood release cable is in the glove box in the upper right corner

Since no year was specified I can only guess it is the Transmission Lock. The transmission has a lock-out that stops taking the transmission from going out of Park unless the Brake is applied.

BUT if there is a need to put the car in Neutral MANUALLY, say because of a complete electrical failure, a MANUAL RELEASE is provided on the Automatic Shifter Housing to Manually activate and remove it from park.

That is what you are calling a 'switch'.

To reset the service engine light on a 1997 Suzuki Sidekick first turn off the car. Unplug the battery of at least 5 seconds and then plug the battery. The computer will now be reset.