Toyota 4Runner

kind of a touchy motor, if in tip top shape and a 5spd manual. get up 23mpg with the 3.0v6.

Can't remember which one but one of the red ones in the fuse box under the hood.

The 2005 Toyota 4Runner has a 4.0 L base engine size.

the voltage "persay" comes from the ecu(computer) i would not use a test light to see if voltage is present thay can be intrusive and short the ecu u will need a dvom meter and service manual to test that circut

it took a while for me to figure this one out... its used under heavy acceleration, keeps the tranny in the lower gears to give you more power when your in a hurry. saves you gas too because your not trying to push the pedal harder to get more speed... works very well, i use it all the time

EDIT: NO DO NOT USE IT ON AUTO!!

USE IT IN THE MIDDLE BUTTON, AUTO IS FOR HILL CLIMBING WHERE YOUR GEARS DON'T DROP, POWER IS FOR WHEN YOU WANT IT TO PUSH THE REVS!

USE IT ON AUTO CONTINUOUSLY AND IT WILL KILL YOUR AUTO BOX!

-Evan

It depends no the car.

Drill it. Or call a locksmith and have them do it. They may be able to pull the broken key out.

Possibly the sway bar bushings?

first make sure you have the right size fuse. if it keeps blowing then you will have to figure out where the extra current is coming from. start by checking the wires. make sure that none are broken or have bare wire showing. most of the time a wire rubs against something and gets a bare spot.

It is on the passenger side where the transmission meets the engine

The computer has picked up on a problem in the engine that needs your attention. Could be bad could be just attention is needed. You need to check the code to be sure. If you go to the local parts store they will probably check the code for free and tell you what it is. Then gladly sell you the part that can fix it.

Take an insulin shot and recheck your bloodsugar after 15-30 minutes. Avoid or limit your intake in foods that has sugar or excess amount of carbs.

I don't have an exact answer for you. It is likely with the other fuses on the interior of the vehicle, in a block. It is also likely a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Hope that helps a little.

ed Parker isn't

how to reset the vigo timing belt warning light

What is the pressure on the gage on top of the filter say? Some pools operate with about 12 # reading. Some operate at 25, 30 & 35 #'s. Still others operate within the 4 to 8 # range. If yours is much higher than those very high indications it could be that your filter needs cleaning. If it is reading zero - it could be a faulty gage or plugged suction line, skimmer basket, pump basket. You could also feel at the skimmer port with your hand to see how strong the flow is. If you can see water circulating at a rather swift movement that is an indication you have flow.

Purchase a book at your local big box hardware store for the basics on pool care. Well worth it in aggravation and mistakes.

k

You need to bleed the brakes. Loosen the bleeder valve on one of the calipers and have someone press and hold the brake pedal. Tighten the valve and release the brake pedal. (If you let off of the pedal with the valve loose, air will be drawn into the system and make the problem worse.)

Where are you planning to start your franchise? How big will it be? You could get in touch with Abdul Latif Jameel. They have been Toyota spare parts dealers for decades. They also help in distribution all over the region and abroad.

Yes it does.

Factory recommended pressure is printed in two places. In your owners manual and on a sticker attached to the drivers side doorsill.

Some drivers choose to increase those pressures slightly to change handling characteristics or reduce rolling resistance (increase fuel mileage) but don't go overboard. Never run a pressure higher than what's on the sidewall of the tire (maximum cold pressure). Which reminds me, always air up tires when they're cold. Essentially don't drive more than five miles at speeds above 35 mph. Tires heat up while rolling which expands air inside and throws readings off.

Cheers

I went thru my manual and couldn't find any place where it made a note on the differences between the 2. If there are any I would say its in the emissions hookup. For those the books always say to go to the sticker that is in the hood.

how many runners in the USA

The throttle position sensor can be tested by moving the throttle as observing the engine's response. If it is smooth and consistent, the sensor is functioning properly.

alot of things...read up on diagnosis ...

...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :)

I have an 04 Stratus, and have the same problem. Take it to an auto parts store that does code reading (or buy one), and read the codes. I've had 7 errors come up on one, and they all effect how long the car runs.

First, Cam sensor (looking at the engine, its on the left side, underneath the 1 1/2 inch rubber tube. Second, Crank sensor (real pain in the butt to change) Right side of engine--remove air intake. Sensor fits the same plug as the cam, but they are NOT the same--found that out the hard way. 3rd Low battery. Replace it if it needs it. Remove drivers tire--looking at the rotor its on the left side. remove panel, remove battery. and replace if needed. 4th MAP sensor, have not gotten around to replace this yet. 5th (6th and 7th) Barometric Pressure Sensor. No idea the car even had one. Dont know its location either. I've had all those errors, and replaced all but the MAP and BPS, and it still stalls mid-drive. Problem still isn't resolved. Oh, forgot about the random mis-fire on cyl. 5 --have had this problem for a LONG time now..I'd say about 30k+ miles, so I'm pretty sure it doesnt have too much to do with stalling.

Here's some pictures to help explain:

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/bio_toxcar?action=view&current=cam.jpg

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/bio_toxcar?action=view&current=map1.jpg

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/bio_toxcar?action=view&current=crank1.jpg

http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o240/bio_toxcar?action=view&current=Crank2.jpg

If you don't have a timing mark or cannot find it you need to do this. Find out which cylinder is the #1 cylinder and pull the spark plug out of it. To make it easier to turn the motor over it is best to pull out all to the plugs so you aren't fighting the compression of the other cylinders. Next put a wrench onto the crankshaft pulley on the front of the motor. There should be a bolt there that holds it on. If not, you can turn it by hand. A second set of hands is always good also. Next once you have the plugs out, put you finger or thumb over the hole of the #1 cylinder's plug hole. Then turn or have a friend turn the motor until you feel pressure against your finger. Once you have this figured out you can take a straw or something that won't break and put it down into the cylinder. Going slowly, turn the engine until it looks to be all of the way out, (the straw). This is a good way of getting the timing close. Just remember that this is for ignition timing only. If you have a newer motor that has a 0 tolerance on the valve timing and you just "get it close" you will be smacking pistons into the valves. This however is an easy way to check and see where your distributor and #1 one cylinders are at.