Toyota 4Runner

pull out the little black clip on the front and lift the handle off.

On my 92 the pump was on the top of the tank. I therefore had to remove the gas tank to get to it. Unhook the battery. Then disconnect the hoses you can get to. Place jacks under the tank and let them put pressure on the tank. Then remove the straps holding the tank up. Begin lowering the tank and then unhook any hoses you didn't do earlier. Once on the ground you can slide it out and then replace the pump. Empty the tank prior to installing to make it easier. Just be careful. When doing anything with gas you want to ensure it wont ignite by any flame. it might be helpful to also raise the car if necessary.

This is a pretty good guide with pictures. http://www.vstar1100.com/vs1100valves.pdf

tungsten

Most manuals carry the wiring diagram. Check local library's. If you don't want o buy one. If you are buying check the book before you buy it. Take it to the counter and ask the salesman to check it before you buy it so it doesn't need to be returned. They are usually very accommodating for this if you ask.

Normally as you would drive safely anyway. On a very steep grade kick it out of Overdrive The 4Runner has a button on the gear shift. Other vehicles w/o that feature you may have to drop a gear with shifter, especially a 4 or 5 speed auto, and allow the engine to run at about 3000 rpm, so as to not 'lug' it, it will consume a bit more gas but is easier on transmission and engine. Don't forget to put it back in O/D or "D" when you crest a grade..unless the other side is equally or steeper (more steep?) downhill, and allow the engine to control your speed instead of riding brakes. If you are talking about off-roading, climbing a very steep hill slowly, put it in Low or "1"

You go to a mechanic and ask him or her to do it

Sounds like my brother. But us backyard mechanics have a better idea. Block the vehicle rear wheels up if you can but if not then block the wheels and put on the brakes. Safety first when under a vehicle. Once under there will be the drive shaft running from the transmission to the rear differential.

There will be 4 nut and bots on each end. Remove the rear one first or the front. Doesnt matter. Then remove the other. Whole thing will come Dow in your hands.

Once the shaft is disconnected you no longer can rely on the parking brake to hold the vehicle, so ensure you do those safety things first.

Jonathon

I have owened and bled brakes on vehicles from a 58 Chevy pickup to a 92 Toyota 4 runner. They are all the same. So unless Toyota did something I am not aware of on their 2002, this should work there also.

Remove the tire on the side you are going to bleed. Support the vehicle good as you will need someone in it. On the brake mechanism you will find a small #10 fitting with a rubber cap on it. If cap is gone then it will just have a hole in the fitting.

Carefully brake the fitting loose, but don't unscrew yet. Put a hose over the fitting or a collection pan under the wheel, to collect spilled fluid. I like a painters roller pan because its long and the fluid tends to spray out under pressure.

Put someone in the car and have them pump the brakes 3 times. Then hold pressure on the brake until you tell them to release. With them holding pressure turn the fitting open about a half a turn and watch the fluid come out. It should be clear and clean like new fluid. This is where a new clear hose comes in handy because you can see the fluid easily.

Now tighten the fitting and then have them release their foot and repeat the process. If they release before you tighten the fitting then you just pulled more air in the system and made your job longer. You want a clear fluid coming out and you want a good solid quick stream of fluid. Too slow and the air might not come out of the brake reservoir or lines.

Last. If you are cleaning out lines and replacing old fluid then allow the reservoir in the engine compartment to go completely empty. then pour a small amount of new fluid in and empty again. Then fill with new fluid and bleed out the lines, all of them , even the rear. Its a long process but cleans out things nicely. Then watch the fill reservoir closely and don't let it go dry during the bleed process. If you do you get to start over.

The most simple way to bypass immobiliser is to drill out the bolts or do like i did and chisel off the black box on the back of the fuel pump. behind the black box you will find a fuel shut off solenoid ,put a live to the terminal (black and yellow wire that plugged into black box) you have now by passed the immobiliser

At this point I would only suspect the idle adjustment being set to low. But check the air filter and ensure its clean. If not replace it. Still stalls then adjust the idle up. The big screw on the throttle body does this. Get the car warmed up and then start backing out the screw to increase the idle. It shouldn't make much difference to its cold speed.

If this doesn't work reply to this response with the changes and lets see where I can point you.

1. Open hatchback

2. On upper right for drivers side and upper left for passenger side remove screw (philip head)

3. Inside hatchback on frame locate large opening under lower part of tail light. Unscrew black retaining nut (looks like a round wing nut).

4. Pull lens up and out (upper part of lens has a retension pin) to gain access to bulbs. Turn bulb housing counter clockwise to remove mount. Wiring harness can also be removed to ease turning. Take care not to break the snap on clip on wiring harness.

18.5

Yes.....Non-S models run fine on regular fuel.

Not true. I've put regular gas in my 2003 mini S from day one - and it runs fine.

---

reason why the S model needs premium gas is because of the super charger. theirs a higher compression ratio.

they will start to "knock" after a while. if u run it hard then I'll degrade the engine much faster.

---

My Mini S has 82K miles on it. I drive it very hard. It's never knocked. Runs smooth as can be... and I've NEVER put premium gas in it. No need to waist the money!

How do you clear code?

You can try a temporary fix by applying an epoxy to cover the crack. (I assume that is problem - it is cracked. Common problem for the Protege) However, that is not a good fix, as far as I know. It might be an improvment for awhile, but that's all. Ask a good auto parts store for high temp epoxy. Another method is to braise with silver or some other type rod. You can look up "how to braise cast iron" on Harris website or something. There are charts saying the type rod to use. To weld it this way takes skill and tools and REMOVING THE OFFENDING PART. Once you have the manifold off the car, you light as well replace it with a new one. Repacement is probably cheaper than the cost of theBTU's required to braise it properly.

Headers will give u few nice HPs, as well as go to for an electric fan instead of the clutch operated one.

To answer your question: no, E10 will not damage your engine because it burns hotter. If you use fuel containing higher than 10%, you might see problems then. However, what you should be cautious of when using E10 is its extremely solvency and degradation of fuel system parts, injectors, gaskets and seals. Since you're driving a pretty old vehicle I would suggest looking for non-ethanol blended fuel by testing gas at the pump before purchase. Using E10 can not only damage fuel system components, but it will decrease mileage and negatively affect performance since it gives off less energy when burned. It gives off approximately 111,000 BTU's when burned compared to regular gasoline's 125,000 BTU's. This means you'll see a drop of approx. 10% in horsepower and mileage. If you drive a 4Runner with the big V8 you might see an even bigger drop.

If you cannot find non-ethanol gas and these problems arise I would recommend using Eth-Guard, the complete fuel additive for all ethanol problems. Eth-Guard is safe in all engines and contains no harmful ingredients such as alcohol (why use more?), MMT, MTBE, TEL or lead. Eth-Guard will lubricate the vital fuel system components - prolonging their lives, increases the energy of the fuel (Eth-Guard gives off approx. 150,000 BTU's - this will increase mileage and performance) and will prevent phase separation in most applications.

To view Eth-Guard visit: www.e10gasadditives.com/product_ethguard.html

To view more information in E10 visit: www.fueltestkit.com

10w30

General rule of thumb is that if you look st it you will see the internal element is broken. On some fuses they can develop a crack and not allow current to flow but they look goo. In this instance you need to use a meter to check it.

I can not unlock the doors to my 2003 Toyota 4-Runner with my fab. I put a new battery in my fab. What is wrong? Do I need to replace a fuse in my car?

Thanks.

Yes.

2001 Toyota corrollas have a tsb on the acc. drive belt tensioners. the hydraulic tensioner leaks and causes the belt to loosen and wear prematurely. Replace both the tensioner and belt to solve the problem.

The interior lights will remain on for a duration of time after the doors are shut as a safety/courtesy feature. The reason they remain on is the capacitor in the lighting electrical circuitry. The capacitor passes on energy when the circuit is powered, and retains voltage when the circuit is powered down. Once the circuit is powered down, i.e. the vehicle shut off and doors closed, the capacitor still holds that charged voltage and discharges itself over a period of time, usually 30 seconds or so. As it discharges, the electricity moves through the circuit and through the bulbs until the capacitor is completely discharged. Hope this helps!

Diagrams are under the hood usually the bottom side of the hood or on the radiator rail.