Toyota T100

might as well do the hard side first. move the airbox tube out of the way. taking off as few bolts and vacuum lines and electrical connects as possible remove the plume in two parts. tie them up out of the way. loosen the fuel fed to the rail. loosen the fuel rail and lift it up. take out the bad injector(s). put the good injector(s) in the fuel rail and put the three injectors into the engine head. do the passenger side too abpout the same way only it is easier to get to. put every thing back.

note: keep your bolts for different areas in different cans or bags. put bolts back in their holes when you can so as not to get them mixed up. some kind of lube may help the o-rings on the injectors slide in...ask around...maybe gojo hand cleaner I have heard works...

There is one, if that is your question.
You can buy one yes, if that is your question.

After recently completely changing out a 1992 cab to a 1995 cab, there insn't anything i dont know about this year of cab (89-95). there is a slight problem with this, they don't use cables, they use electrical impulses, so if your speedometer doesn't work then when you get your dash tore apart then make sure your main connections are tight, but if they are then when your get your guage cluster out, the speedometer is only held in with 4 screws, and sadly the same 4 screws that it needs for signals, so if any of theses look bad or coroded, repalce the stuff, any more questions you can e-mail me at kc0tdw@kc0tmo.com

In a chiltons or a haynes book you can get at your local parts store.

sub woofer from Toyota

The small black (either rubber or plastic) hose attached to your cars blower motor is a cooling tube for the blower motor.

The t100 does not have a distributor. Instead it uses 3 ignition coils ( 2 spark plugs per coil) and the computer fires the primary of the correct coil at the appropriate time. This change was primarily done to improve the ability of the computer to optimize the timing for all the variables (especially smog and performance).

I have had the check engine light come on twice in my 95 T-100 and both times it was a faulty oxygen sensor. My vehicle which is the 6 cyl model has two of these sensors. Both are quit pricy so it is best to have a service garage check to see which one is faulty before you replace them yourself.

Also if you have removed the housing for the air filter this can cause a check engine light. Check to ensure that the housing is properly seated and the light should go out eventually.

Changing the third brake light is fairly easy! Unscrew the 2 screws and you should be able to take the lense off. Once you've done that, there should be 3 little bulbs in there. The bulbs should just pull right out of the fixture!

1. New gas cap. Plastic screw assembly to cap may be old/cracked. 2. Overfilling. There is a drain hole inside cab next to fuel filler tube. This can cause gas to stay inside housing until fumes evaporate. Need to check/repair. Fumes are EXPLOSIVE!

I dont know. I am researching the same for my 1995. Crutchfield sell speakers and also will send free pictured instructions on your app. if you buy from them. Might try that myself. Hear its quite involved.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/fe/2a/0900823d8015fe2a.jsp

Nope 91 was the last year of that

Change it as quick as possible, and have plenty of rags on you, or crack the lines and just let the lines completely drain out into a bucket.

The flasher unit on T100 is located under the instrument panel, behind the lower left finish panel.

Crawl under the vehicle and locate the slave cylinder it is usually on the passenger side of the clutch. there is a fluid line and 2 bolts. First remove the hydralic line and then the 2 bolts and the slave cylinder will fall right out. Installation is in reverse order. then get a helper to bleed the clutch. First have the helper pump up the clutch and then you crack open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Remember don't let the reservoir go dry Keep doing this process until you get the clutch you like and top off the reservoir and put the cap back on the reservoir

The expansion valve is located inside the evaporator box either behind the glove box or inside the mid dash console behind the radio and climate control. It has to be removed to gain access to the valve. Not a job for the weak at heart. Take it to a reputable repair shop or dealer. There should not be a need to replace the expansion valve. If your A/C experiences moments of being clogged, (which is exhibited by warm air blowing from the A/C vents) but then after a while the A/C blows cool again from the vents, you probably need to evacuate the system and pump it down to vacuum out any contaminants and to remove the moisture. Recharge until there are no more bubbles or a foam stream present at the site glass on top of the accumulator. If those were the symptoms, the only other suggestion would be to reverse blast the expansion valve with nitrogen prior to sucking down the system, which should dislodge anything blocking the expansion valve orifice. Just because an expansion valve is partially blocked, doesn't mean it won't still function; moisture in the system is the culprit which turns to ice and completely blocks the opening. After it has been blocked for a while, the ice will melt unclogging the opening and the freon will start to flow again into the evaporator - the system will again function blowing cool air from the vents. Up until the moment moisture contamination makes its way around back to the small orifice to freeze again, blocking the flow of freon to the evaporator.

It's real simple, Just unhook the negitave terminal on the battery for a minute or so and then hook it back up. This emptys the computer memory. The light should now be off, but it will probably come back on sooner or later. My 1999 Rodeo has had the CEL on for over a year. Could be gas cap, EGR valve being dirty, EGR tube being pluged, clean um with carb cleaner. If the truck also uses lots of oil, check the above EGR problems. Some say ISUZU used the CEL (check engine light) to get owners to bring their trucks in to get high dollar service done on otherwise undamaged trucks. You be the judge. This is not an uncommon problem.

A 85 model will have r-12 type refigerant, unfortanatly even if you find the freon finding hoses to charge the system can be costly and you would have to buy additional adapters if you ever tried to charge a r-134a system. The best recomendation I can give you is to convert your r-12 system to a r134a sytem. The parts are readily available and with the cost of r134-a being much cheaper it will probably cost about the same. Note this however! DO NOT put the same amount of r134a in the system as you would r-12! it should only hold about 85% as much to acheive the same pressure. Most r134a converion kits come with a gauge so you put in the right amount. Good luck with your A/C.........Im doing mine today as well

32, when I replaced the ones in my truck the guy at the auto parts store told me that they should have the correct gap from the factory and it should be 32mm. They actually had it. 32, when I replaced the ones in my truck the guy at the auto parts store told me that they should have the correct gap from the factory and it should be 32mm. They actually had it.

There could be a few causes for a car to spit and sputter on acceleration. One common cause would be the engine not getting enough fuel, so it could be a problem in the fuel line, fuel filter, or fuel pump.

Remove it using a screwdriver, a set of nails and prob a good mechanic

It should be directly on the outside of the Air Intake box (where your air filter is). It is a small (about 2.5-3 in long) black sensor that fits into a hole on the Air Intake box. It has two (2) female connectors that accommodate the a two-pronged plug. (there are only two wires on this year model)

In later models, (like my 95 T100) the IAT sensor is built into (and part of) the MAF sensor, located right behind the Air Intake box.

There are good pictures of it (and the location) in the Haynes Repair manual for 93-98 T100 (and also Tacomas, and Fore-Runners) on page 6-14

I paid about $20 at Advance Auto (or maybe it was AutoZone) and has been well worth it.

5 w 30

You would need someone to look under the vehicle at the drive shaft while you try to move.

If the drive shaft spins, but you don't move, its the rear end. No spinning drive shaft, then you have no clutch.