VW Beetle Type 1

are you talking about the little arm that comes out of the door and attaches to the door frame? because that's really simple. there should be a little pin that connects the that arm to the frame of the door, you pull that out and it should come right off.

Look in your owners manual. If you don't have one, Get one from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM If you intend to do more work on your car, you may want to get a shop manual also.

On a Classic Bug, the glass is held in with gaskets. You get it out by VERY CAREFULLY sliding a razor-sharp knife between the gasket and the glass, and cutting the face of the gasket away. Extreme care must be taken to ensure you don't scratch the paint, break the glass or cut yourself to pieces. Anyway, once the face of the gasket is off the windshield just lifts off. To get it back in, start by laying the new gasket on the ground on a bright sunny day for about four hours. This softens it up and makes it easy to handle. You then put the gasket around the glass. You'll notice a groove in the back of the gasket, where the metal flange of the window hole fits; you put a piece of string in it all the way around. Someone gets in the car and someone else holds the glass up to the hole and pushes real hard against it. The person in the car uses the string to work the gasket around the metal flange. It sounds stupid but it's the only thing that works. (And can you imagine the outside-of-the-car guy at the Volkswagen factory on his first day? "Your job is to lean on this window.")

Last built 2003 in Mexico

Are the wheels locked up, won't spin? Probably the brakes are seized up, the shoes have seized on the drums. Might be the bearings rusted onto the spindles also, depends on the conditions it sat in for 10 years. Sometimes trying to rotate the wheels backwards will free them up enough to roll. Removing the brake drums on a seized up vehicle can be beyond the average hobbyist's abilities. A qualified mechanic will have to remove the drums and evaluate what's needed to be replaced, count on a full brake job and new drums at least. Try to find a shop that is familiar with older vehicles and hopefully old VW's. They can tow it to the shop.

I'm a 1999 volkswagen beetle owner, this car holds 14 gallons and gives about 22miles/gallon. hope this helps

between August 1997 and July 1998, i think.

You either have a bad relay, wiper motor, or bad switch.

On the top of the dash by the windshield, also on the front apron inside trunk area as well as under rear seat in front of transmission access panel on chassis.

all 1979 bettles are fuel injection

Each piston has an arrow on top. Point it at the flywheel end.

its either 8.5 or 9.5 gallons!

this is an easy way take the 2 in 1/2 and and divide 134 by it ex: 134/2=67 get it

There are two screws in the back on either side. You may need to move some wiring out of the way to get to it. Once you can see the two screws (at 3 and 9 o'clock. Simply loosen them and you wil be able to turn the speedo counterclockwise without fully removing the screws.

1967 through 1969.

The horn sits under the front of the car, and it's bolted to the "frame". Undo the wires that are on the old horn, and remember where the came from so you can put them in the same order on the new horn. If you have the correct horn, the same wiring configuration should work, and you just bolt it on.

You could do as the last guy suggested, which would be a good idea...BUT...in the case that you pull all these plugs out at on time, here are a few good ways to know what firing order they go in:

1. You can go off of the length of the wires. The wires only reach so far and non of them should be over stretched or dangling.

2. The cylinder's order is [5] [6] <---back of engine

[3] [4]

[1] [2] <---front of engine

3. Cylinder 1 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 4

Cylinder 3 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 6

Cylinder 5 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 2

This is a funky order set up, but that is how it is on the 3.4L V6 engine of my 96 Toyota T100. Hopefully that helps.

the 16 inch steel rim is about 9.4kg

Loosen of the distributor so that it will move a little start the engine and get and turn the distributor until the engine runs as smoothly as yo can get it. Take it for a run around the block and see how it accelerates and how the torque feels. If it is not quite right move the timing back a little until you are happy with it.

a generator is the same diameter all the way to the fan shroud and usually has a voltage regulator fastened to the fan shroud where a alternator is bigger where the pulley goes than where it goes into the fan shroud

There are two types of distributors that can be used, the original vacuum advance type and the Bosch mechanical advance distributor that does not use vacuum. The Bosch is best for high performance use, but the vacuum advance delivers the best city driving performance. Users of the mechanical advance typically complain about the 'flat spot' or hesitation on take off, but the flat out acceleration is superior. Electronic ignition distributors are now available in both types for conversion from the antiquated 'points' type ignition. The "standard" aftermarket distributor is the Bosch 009. They are very good and reliable and I have installed the Pertronics electronic ignition module instead of points and condenser and am very happy with it. I use a high output coil and can increase my spark plug gap to get better spark and better ignition and combustion. I have never noticed a decrease in gas mileage simply by replacing the distributor. The funny thing about the 009 is this; it's a great distributor, it works well, and has a great acceleration curve, but the standard single vacuum advance distributor works BETTER in most cases. I'm currently experimenting with changing out my 009 with a stock single vacuum advance 049. I've heard good things about them. Basically, if you can fit the distributor in the hole, the distributor should work just fine for your VW.

owners manual is a valuable source. any auto parts store with haynes or chilton auto manuals should have it or can get it.

1974 was the first year of energy absorbing Beetle bumpers. You can't use earlier bumpers on 1974s.

The engine case is split, correct? Having a magic marker, bottle of nail polish, or whatever will make this job easier, but it's not mandatory. For extra entertainment, go buy your nail polish with your hands all covered in grease. Anyway! Look very close at your camshaft's gear and you will find one tooth that has a very distinct little dimple machined into the side of it. On the crankshaft's gear, you'll find two teeth with these dimples in them. The one marked tooth on the cam gear fits between the two marked teeth on the crank gear. It's best to paint the sides of these teeth because, when you put the case together, those little dimples are very hard to see.

$1500