VW Cabriolet

yes, that's why it is an ANTI-THEFT system. You must stand outside the car, use the key in the driver's door and lock the car, then unlock the car. This should reset the alarm and allow for starting the car.

mine does the exact same thing, Your ventilation is operated on a vacuum system. when you open your hood, on the underside there is a black plastic piece that looks like balls grouped together, that is your vacuum system. you need to start there. follow all the litttle hoses and check there connections, and the hoses for leaks, if the hoses are old they often crack, and all you need is a small air leak for them not to work. I still cant find where my problem is, all my hoses are new, so good luck, if you have any in sight after post it here to help the next guy, i am a newbie You have to check the vacuum motor(s) under the dash - mine had the spring rot out & not function. The normal positon is spring on - vacuum retract (what you want to select). Parts cost $110 at dealer - you have to remove the upper dash cover - plan most of a Saturday. Remove radio / console / etc. first. This would be about an hour job IF the factory allowed for removal of the glove box. You can break off the plastic clove box tabs in the back of the cover & use 4x tinnermans & phillps screws to re-assemble. Glove box door covers everything & makes re-assembly easier too. Stupid design by VW

Clean the switches and check that the harness on the switches is tight, its usually just the power seat ajustment switches that are at fault and not the seat at all.

Karmann is the factory in Germany where the car was built,. VW had more than one production factory in Germany that built VW golf's. There is a great website called VW cabby that has all the history of VW golf's dating back to the 60's.

Lift the hood and behind the headlamps there are two L shaped rods that insert into the harness of the head lamps. Rotate the rods toward the grill, this unlocks the rods. Next remove the rods and this frees up the head lamps. Remove the headlamps from the grill allowing for access to the daytime running lamps. I left the headlamp wiring harnesses intact. The daytime running lamps have a lever that you push to unlock and then rotate to release and then you can change out the bulb easily. Reverse steps to replace lamp assemblies. This was a difficult find until I caught on to the above and then took less than five minutes. Have fun.

1986 volkswagen cabriolet karmann convertable drivers door remopval instructions

Coolant is getting into your oil because you've probably blown your head gasket. This is usually caused by a warped head the result of improperly torqued head bolts or severe overheating of the motor.

I went to the public library and found the maintenance book will all the diagrams needed. I went to the public library and found the maintenance book will all the diagrams needed.

You can, but it's not recommended. The best sizes for the Cabriolets are 13"-15".

It's under the bonnet, at the base of the coolant reservoir. There is a 30a strip fuse, and a 20a fuse behind it.

On the VW automatic transmission of this generation vehicle, the transmission is supposed to be serviced only by VW, so there is not the typical dip stick tube that comes up into the engine compartment. You can check the fluid and add if needed through the fill spout, under the car, located directly on the transmission pan. There is a short 2" tube with a red cap, unscrew the cap which also has a fluid level indicator attached, similar to a power steering dipstick. To add fluid you will need to pump it in with a hose attached to your container. Regards. BDBENZ

the wiring should be checked- voltage to the starter and also to the solenoid when the key's in the crank position. Other possibilities include battery and terminals. The "new" starter is suspect too, especially if this is an automatic VW Cabriolet. If the problem is a failure to turn over when an attempt is made to start the car when it's hot, definitely suspect the starter. There's a relay kit to remedy this problem too.

Getting to the ignition switch housing is going to be a task in itself however once you get there you will need to drill a small hole into the houseing of the ignition switch small enough to push a retaining clip down in order to remove the ignition (key). Drilling the hole in the right place is critical, you have to measure approximately 1/4" back from the edge of the lock from the top of the off position (when you remove the key), now measure about 3/16" left of that mark and make a mark, this will be where you will drill a 1/16" hole, becareful not to go deeper than an 1/8" (tip: just drill slowley pull back and check to see if you've got past the housing. Now look down the cylinder (where you removed the lock from) and you will see a retaining screw which holds the ignition switch, unscrew it and replace. Now put it all back together again. Another Answer....I just replaced the ignition switch on my 91 Cabriolet...didn't need to do the drilling thing as mentioned above...Just remove the steering wheel..and remove everything else on your way down the steering column..then loosen and slide the entire lock cylinder off the shaft...unplug the ignition switch (and all the other connectors you've met along the way ie. turn signal and windshield wiper).....then unscrew the ignition switch...replace and reassemble in the reverse order...not the easiest project....and some how I managed to goof up my dimmer switch and turn signal return (must be those 2 little pieces that landed on the floor....: )...good luck!

simple. you see a black round cover on the back of the headlight. unscrew it and pull it off. now the connector is VERY breakable (trust me i know!) so gently take it off. now is the hard part as its a tight fit and you cant see what you need the part you need to get to so feel with your hands around the bulb. you will feel a hinged hook that you can pull backwards (away from the front of the car). after you do that the bulb should slide right out. to install slide the new bulb in close the hook, reinstall the connector and put the cap back on! have fun!

Front of the transmition

Many cars may stall because the idle air control valve has failed or is failing. Carbon build up is one of the common culprits. A dealer can correct this problem by replacing the valve and cleaning the carbon out of the engine using chemicals. I just got my 1998 Crown Victoria back from the Ford dealer, and it runs great. It was worth the $496+ dollars.

there are alot of reasons a car may stall from something as simple as a dirty air filter, or sensor to an injector pump, or electrical fault. if the check engine light is on most auto parts store will check it for free, otherwise go to a mechanic.

This problem usually is a victim of a massive vacuume leak. Usually from either the idle air control motor or, the fuel distrabution box itself.

Slide seat back as far as it will go.Look under the middle of the front of the seat and you will find a acorn nut and bolt ,remove same.Lift/raise the seat slide handle up and push the seat back off the center slider. Note there is a spring loaded pin up front that will release the seat fully and then lift the sucker out

For a 1.8 Liter engine 0.028 to 0.035 inch. A 2.0 Liter engine 0.024 inch is the gap.

0.70mm +/- 0.10mm or .028 in +/- .004 in Check the Emission Control Information label under the hood for your specific model. No sticker? Well, .028 - .036 will get you in the ballpark. If you buy Bosch W7DC or W7DTC spark plugs (the preferred brand), they are pre-gapped.

If your Jetta came with 16 inch wheels as original equipment the correct tire pressure is located on a plaque mounted on the driver's side door post. If the 16 inch tires are not original to your car, the tire pressure on my 2007 jetta with 16 inch wheels is 34 pounds front and rear.

I have been told to use synthetics because of the turbo, but it seems that the slipperiness of the synthetic seems to cause some leakage from my 2002 TDI Golf's oil cap, that did not occur before. I have found regular changes at regular intervals with regular 10-30 weight oil have created 90k trouble free miles. I thought about trying a blend but it doesn't seem worth it...

one of the sensors are between the two fans with wires going into it