VW Cabriolet

Front of the transmition

Many cars may stall because the idle air control valve has failed or is failing. Carbon build up is one of the common culprits. A dealer can correct this problem by replacing the valve and cleaning the carbon out of the engine using chemicals. I just got my 1998 Crown Victoria back from the Ford dealer, and it runs great. It was worth the $496+ dollars.

there are alot of reasons a car may stall from something as simple as a dirty air filter, or sensor to an injector pump, or electrical fault. if the check engine light is on most auto parts store will check it for free, otherwise go to a mechanic.

This problem usually is a victim of a massive vacuume leak. Usually from either the idle air control motor or, the fuel distrabution box itself.

Slide seat back as far as it will go.Look under the middle of the front of the seat and you will find a acorn nut and bolt ,remove same.Lift/raise the seat slide handle up and push the seat back off the center slider. Note there is a spring loaded pin up front that will release the seat fully and then lift the sucker out

For a 1.8 Liter engine 0.028 to 0.035 inch. A 2.0 Liter engine 0.024 inch is the gap.

0.70mm +/- 0.10mm or .028 in +/- .004 in Check the Emission Control Information label under the hood for your specific model. No sticker? Well, .028 - .036 will get you in the ballpark. If you buy Bosch W7DC or W7DTC spark plugs (the preferred brand), they are pre-gapped.

If your Jetta came with 16 inch wheels as original equipment the correct tire pressure is located on a plaque mounted on the driver's side door post. If the 16 inch tires are not original to your car, the tire pressure on my 2007 jetta with 16 inch wheels is 34 pounds front and rear.

I have been told to use synthetics because of the turbo, but it seems that the slipperiness of the synthetic seems to cause some leakage from my 2002 TDI Golf's oil cap, that did not occur before. I have found regular changes at regular intervals with regular 10-30 weight oil have created 90k trouble free miles. I thought about trying a blend but it doesn't seem worth it...

one of the sensors are between the two fans with wires going into it

Unfortunately the heater box as a whole needs to be deinstalled. Even though you can see the motor from the engine compartment, it will not fit up and out of the cowl vent area...( I've tried twice...)

If the car has A/C, its a bit more difficult. The non-A/C version is simpler, the flimsy plastic tray must carefully be removed from the cowl area under the hood. The radiator must be drained. There are two medium size hoses that run from the engine compartment through the firewall and to the heater core. You can find them and the clamps that hold them very near the gas pedal. Its a good idea to just cut them and replace them with new ones so they don't fail later. If you want to reuse the ones you've got, you must be VERY careful to loosen the hose from the pipe that goes inside it after you loosen the clamp. Sometimes I resort to using a small screwdriver to slide between the hose and pipe to break the friction of years of attachment. You will also need to deinstall the radio to access the two screws that hold the heater control mechanism in place. The fan knob and vent/heat control knobs just pull straight out of the dash. There is also a pair of wiring plugs above the gas pedal that must be disconnected. (yellow, brown, and white wires?) There is a plastic bracket between the dashpad and the heater unit that has one screw through it. There are 4 screws with 8mm heads under the hood near the fan motor itself that are probably obscured with sealant. They hold the heater unit in place. I've found that a 1/4" drive ratchet, short extension, and short socket work best for removing these screws. the unit will likely be held in place by the sealant around the mounting flange after you remove all the screws. When you dislodge it, be careful of the control tab on the bottom of the unit that opens and closes the floor heat flapper, its easy to break it off. The blower motor itself is held in the heater unit by only one screw.

Reinstallation is mostly just the reversal of the procedure. You will need to apply some sort of sealant to the mounting flange to keep water from getting into the car after your done. I often use weatherstripping ribbon that you might get from a home improvement or hardware store.

If your car has the knee bar/ tray under the dash... you should try to find a Bentley Manual to follow the removal procedure. I have found that you have to disassemble a major portion of the dash to access the mounting screws for the kneebar.

What about it?

Check the fan's fuse in the fuse box. it may be a bad one.

Chances are the lense is just stuck in place. You will probably need to pry up on it a little from all corners to avoid cracking it.

It is a factory sensor that reminds you to get your maintenance tune-ups. Generally it goes off about every 15,000 miles, and when it happens people are forced to take it into the shop (they assumed dealer) and there they would tell you about all the wonderful things you need to replace and repair, or they would turn it off and send you home after a quick exam. Depending on how you feel about it you yourself can turn it off. There is a little black box the size of about two decks of cards and on the broadside of it a little white button. Hold that down for a little while, 10-30 secs, and it should go off. If you are concerned deeply about your 23yr old cars performance- take it into your local dealer or VW mechanic and they will, should, turn it off and check out your car. Good luck. When the OXS (aka oxygen sensor) light comes on, it means 30,000 miles have passed since the last OXS counter box reset (when the oxygen sensor was last replaced, or should have been replaced). The one-wire oxygen sensors on 1980-1987 Cabriolets should be replaced every 30,000 miles; the light on the dash is your reminder to do so.

1) The injector is pulled from the insert, with main O-ring and end cap/small O-ring together

2) The end cap is removed from the injector with plyers. Replace the O-ring now, or before installing the injector)

3) Remove the "C" clip (the old, large O-ring can just be cut or pried off - mine were dried and brittle)

4) Take the new O-ring (after soaking in a little gas) and slide it over the injector until it seats in it's groove

5) Reinstall the "C" clip

6) Reinstall the end cap

7) Remove/install inserts if you want to clean them

8) Smear a little oil on the O-rings and insert the injectors

The availability of diagrams will depend on a few variables including the year of your vehicle and how much of the vehicle is factory original. For original equipment diagrams, check your local auto parts stores for repair books for your specific vehicle published by companies such as Chilton's or Haynes. You may also order or download many repair manuals and individual diagrams online.

High idle problem- There is a setscrew at the back of the throttle body that adjust idle basic idle. there is not really an idle control motor per say. there is a valve that turns on and lets air through it and thus adjusting idle. setting idle is kind of a big job. i would suggest getting a Bentley manual. they are a bit expensive but A MUST HAVE IF YOU ARE GOING TO FIX YOUR OWN CAR!!!

other high idle causes-
Vacuum leaks- check all the hoses that come off the intake manifold to what ever component they go to. I like to spray brake cleaner over the hoses the idle should smooth out when you hit a leak. another common problem with 8v's is the auxiliary air regulator it is behind the intake manifold on the left side. this allows the engine to idle faster while in its warm up cycle it should get hot and close up if it does not close it will cause the engine to idle fast. use a vise grips or something similar to pinch off the hose that goes into the intake manifold from the air regulator.

1. dirty gas filter

2.fuel pump getting old

3.fuel relay switch getting ready to die

you should check the steering wheel gasket first. if that's not it, then you should check the blinker fluid

The control module is on the passenger side up under the knee guard. You have to take out the front passenger seat, lay on your back and look up.

Yes, push down the 2 buttons on top of the seatback.

There could be several reason that I can think. I am sure there are more.

1 - Possible Vacuum leak (it has happened to me)

2 - Possible bad ground (check all of them)

3 - Possible fuel starvation (fuel pump or pumps faulty or blown fuses or relays)

4 - Possible faulty fuel gauge or indicator problem (empty but not showing)

5 - Possible Alternator bad (not charging or bad connections)

6 - Possible bad battery

I am sure there are several other things that could cause it. Is it automatic or standard? Also are there any other symptoms or anything that has happened to the vehicle recently? Answering some of these questions and using the process of elimination will eventually lead you to find the specific reason your VW is stalling.

To everytome, feel free to correct me if I am mistaken. I am writing this because of my many years of owning and personal experiences with VWs and a Cabriolet I currently have.

The immobilizer can not be disabled, You will need to go to the VW dealer and have the key re-programmed. If it is the correct key.
This problem can occur when the dealer replaces the ECU module - they sometimes forget to tell you that they will need ALL the keys to get them recognized as valid by the ECU.

It's the drawing the shows which fuses in the fuse box are for which systems in the car.