VW New Beetle

A 111 is a regular VW Beetle, a 113 is a super beetle (mcpherson struts instead of torsion bar, larger drums on the rear brakes, longer front end etc.)

The prior answer is incorrect;

111 is a 2 door Sedan; Standard Model LHD

113 is a 2 door Sedan; Deluxe Model LHD (Dished steering wheel, shiny trim, etc.)

112 and 114 would be the right-hand drive equivalents

If you need to replace your tail light bulb, first remove the cover (it's round) from the inside of your trunk. There will be a black knob that needs to be unscrewed totally to release the back light casing. The screw is spring loaded so it is not going to fall. Be sure to hold on to the black knob. If you drop it you can retrieve it, but it's best to not drop it. Next pry the light casing from the fender with a knife or some other sturdy object. It is best to pry the light out from the line that runs from the light to the hatchback door. Don't be afraid, it takes a little force to pull out. After you pull out casing, you'll find two light switches. The one with one filament is for the turn signals and the one with two filaments is for the break light. Turn the light switch counter clockwise and remove. Switch out light bulb with new one (AutoZone has them for about $5.00 - package of 2). Replace every thing back as you uninstalled it. It is recommended that you replace all bulbs, that way it you don't have to do it again later when they go out. It'll save you the time and hassle of doing this again. Hope this will help anyone so print and save in your manual for later use.

a old one

It is possible one of the left side light bulbs is burnt out. A burbt out bulb will cause a higher current to pass through the flasher component and the flasher will rapidly cycle on and off.

has an alternator

the vw engine code on most models is on the white sticker on the boot floor (sometimes in the spare wheel well). The sticker is a replica of the one on the inside front page of the service book.

Importer's suggested retail price without accessories at port of entry: $2,849.

how do you replace the spark plugs on a vw beetle

There is sring clip on the front of the seat on the right hand side (if you are sitting on the seat your right hand side). Move the seat as far forward as you can and then with a scredriver press the clip towards the floor. You will need a light to see this clip. It took me a few days to figure out how to remove the seta.

Good Luck

Murray

First before you do any of the things below, check and see if your turn signal and headlight lever are bad. This is on the left side of the steering wheel, opposite of the the intermittent windshield wiper on the right side. VERY COMMON PROBLEM! The connection(s) inside the component go bad. It could be the opposite to where you will have DRL and low beams, but not high beams depending on which connection point has burned out. Its just a connection problem. Take off the cover that encases the steering column and there should be two screws and a wiring harness holding the turn signal lever in place. Get one at a junk yard for $10-15. Cheap fix and then you have lights again! If this doesn't work get a wiring diagram and figure it out. Then move on from here.

It could be a bad dimmer switch.

Probably not though. I have the same problem on my 97 Cavalier. I replaced the headlight/cruise switch assembly, it didn't help matters. I have read that it is the Daytime Running Light module, located in front of the car dead center, but I have not tried that. I ended up cutting the wires to the hi-beams and splicing them into the low beams. So I have no hi-beams now but at least I'm not making other drivers mad with the highs. I've had it that way for 3 years now, because nobody can answer this question accurrately!!!

UPDATE (6/7/08):

Well, believe it or not, there is a pin-out connector/harness under the battery box (located in the front on the driver's side) that may be corroded. It is attached to the underside, and not easy to see without a mirror. If there is corrosion on the battery box, this connector is probably corroded as well.

To me, this is a MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE, because all of your lights come into this harness/connector and could go out at any time while driving down the road.

I have a 2002 Cavalier, and I was experiencing the exact same problem with the flickering (when started), non-functional DRL, and my high-beams being out. This was also accompanied by a 'Service' light on the dash.

I later found that the reason for the DRL going out first, is that the DRL ground wire is the closest to the post-side of the battery, where the acid leaks from. No ground = no lights!!! Different people will experience similar problems, sometimes with the low-beams, sometimes with the highs, because of different corrosion patterns and the DRLs being run from different bulbs.

Now for The Fix:

1. Check the battery box (under the battery) for corrosion. Chances are, it's corroded, batteries leak, it's what they do.

2. Take a small mirror on a stick, and look underneath the battery for the wires running into a black blob. That used to be your front-end light connector/harness (now corroded). If it is intact, stop here.

3. Remove headlight assembly (optional for more workspace).

4. Remove Battery & Air Box.

5. Get the connector/harness from under the battery box.

6. Get enough wire for 13-wires in total. 11- 18 guage wires, and 2- 16 guage wires (for the main positive and ground). Each wire should be similar in length and about 8"-12" long (so you can avoid putting the wires back under the battery box where they could get damaged again). Color coding is optional, but handy if you don't want to get lost.

7. Clip, strip, and connect (I used solderless connectors) each wire individually if you can to avoid getting them mixed-up. (NOTE: You do not need the connector/harness, and I'm REALLY not sure why they even put it in there... but it is the source of the problem as it is easily corroded).

8. Make sure your connections are sealed well and wrap them up/bind them together with electrical tape for extra protection. Snake tubing, although optional, will also help avoid any future problems. Plus, it looks cool.

9. Put everything back where it should be.

...and before you know it, it's as good as new!

As an after-thought (to everyone else who reads this):

If it's just your high-beams, low-beams, or DRL that are out (just one), start with the DRL relay (in the fuse box). If that's not it, and it's not the DRL, try the multi-function switch (the thing attached to the left of your steering wheel, the headlight switch/cruise control switch). If that's not it, it's probably the problem I've just gone over.

to remove distributer from old engine, remove distributer cap, noting the position of rotar button. remove one bolt that secures distributor to block. lift ditributer out paying attention to the movement of rotor button. u need to note this when re installing so as distributor goes back in, close to same timing setting. replace bolt but do not tighten fully you will then need to recheck timing. if timing is correct engine will start. if backfiing occurs, your distributor is in , 180 degrees wrong. remove distributer, turn rotor 180 degrees then reinstall. check timing again

I have got close to 400 miles on a full tank with my 02 Beetle

The flasher is part of the hazard light switch.

Yes !

Open the hood(front). Pull out the spare tire. On the drivers side, you'll see a round plate held in by a sheet metal screw. Remove the screw, and plates, and you will be looking at the top of the steering box. There should be a plastic plug there. Pop it out with a screwdriver, and add the reqired amount. Don't fill it all the way to overflow. Plug in. Plate on. Tire in. And drive.

curb weight ranges between 1650-1750 lb.

with key on hold on to the minute and hour button at the same time count to three it should change if the clock is on 24hour with the car off do the same hope this help

Try a 'CHILTON MANUAL' located at the library the fuse box cover always has a diagram of the fuse panel on the inside

I think it is near the pivot of the brake pedal lever where it connects to the rod for the master cylinder. It's really hard to see because it is up under the dash just above the steering column shaft. It looks like a white plastic module with some wires attached. For what it's worth. I'm no mechanic.

an old one- no, just a tube going into the air filter.

The fuse for the A/C on a 2003 Volkswagen Beetle is located in the engine compartment. It is a large, square fuse. Larger fuses of this type are placed in a fuse box in the engine compartment to keep injury away from the driver if they malfunction.

finaly. I have my drivers door all tore apart. I am trying to fix my door switch. The one that tells you if the door is open or not and turns on the interior lights and the door light on the door. I have determined that the little switch that does this is bad since it fell apart when I removed the lock assembly! Does any one know where I can get a replacement switch from? I hate to replace the whole assembly when just the little switch is bad. I figure Cherry electric must make a switch like this one. Someone must have found the part number/vendor for this little switch. It will be a piece of cake to fix just this switch.

Ok, we can fix this door switch for $3 USD! You need to go to Radio Shack and purchase Part number #275-016A. This is a Submini Lever Switch. It has NO and NC contacts. Now here is what you need to do.

1) Tear the door down to the door lock assembly. This is detailed in the Bentley.

2) Remove the door lock assembly from the door carrier assembly you just removed. You will need to drill out a rivit to do this as detailed in Bentley.

3) Once you have the door lock assembly out, you will see the switch in question. It is the one that has a red and blue wire going to it. Mine was ruined as outlined above.

4) You will need a dremel tool to slot out the holes that hold the switch in place to the new switch fits in.

4) Observe the posistion and how the old switch works.Then remove the old switch. It is held in place by two plastic plugs that are melted to hold the switch. Pry it out with a small flat bladed screwdriver and clip the wires at the switch. Then slot out the holes for the new switch with your dremel. You will be able to see what you need to slot by comparing the two switches.

5) Take the new switch and remove the lever by slowly twisting it out with a pliers. You don't need it, just the main body of the switch.

6) You will need two tiny screws and nuts, which I had laying around, otherwise you can get them at the hardware store. Attatch the new switch and solder the red and blur wires to the switch. One to the Common and one to the NO (normally open). Plug the electrical plug back in and test the operation of the switch.

7) Button it all back up and rejoice in the money you saved!

I also lubed the new switch with electrical grease and hopefully it will last for awhile. Now that it is all modified, I can slug a new one in if it fails again in the future. (hopefully I wont have to!)

I know these instructions are very basic, but if you have the ability to get all of this apart, you can change out this switch.

taken from the tdiclub forum.

OK, be careful. Do this away from your car, so not to set off the alarm. Open the key. In the grove where the key is stored there is a seam. Pry with a flat head screw driver. The front half and back half will separate. This takes a little wiggling to get them apart. Then, take the button end, the back part, and pull up at the seam. Start up front where the numbers are. once it gives a little try prying with a finger nail around the edges. Watch out so not to damage the water resistant seal. Once open the battery is on the inside of the lid. DO NOT touch the IC chip. One static discharge and it is destroyed. NO VACUUMING! Replace the battery with CR2032 or equivalent. 3 vdc. Positive (+) side goes down. Negative side goes toward the electronics. Put the lid back on. Test a button and see if the red light flashes. If not, recheck the battery installation or check the battery for voltage, you may have got a bad one. Now, put the key and button halves together. The only damage should be widening at the seam in the key storage area. Take your time! Good Luck

1900lbs