VW New Beetle

I would suspect that the alarm system is not arming. Typically this is caused by a missing hood switch bumper.

If you open the hood of the car - you can remove the bulb from the light unit. It is a bit tough because there is not much room. Find where the bulb enters the light unit and twist it about 1/4 turn and it will come out. Find the replacement bulb (I suggest taking the old one with you) to the auto parts store. I think they are about $7.00 each.

Yes, you must use G12 type antifreeze which is similar to Dex-cool but they are not the same. But that doesn't mean you have to buy it from the dealer at $25. There may be other sources. PEAK® Global LifeTime™ claims to be a replacement for G12 but considering the importance of using the proper coolant, I would use only a G12 coolant.

You can't, unless you're an engineer and proficient at welding. Well I guess if you really really wanted too you could. It would be a major under taking to say the least. They have two different front suspensions and they both mount differently. Not to mention the steering, etc. If you're looking at wanting a "beam" axle for a Baja, just get a standard beetle. If the Super body is good and the pan is bad you can just get a donor car and replace the pan. The Super is a couple feet longer so the '60 pan wouldn't fit either.

Not enough weight in the back.

Consult your user manual.

First, Open the trunk and locate the general area where the taillight is located and wired, IE Right or left. Then look on the inside wall of the trunk, there should be a small area that can be removed, like a small cover. Remove the cover, this will allow you to reach inside Once inside locate a small thumb wheel type knob, un loosen it, righty tighty, lefty loosey. Once this is loosen, remove the knob. Now return to the outside part of the tail light, find an area where the plastic rim of the light cover meets the metal of the car, place your fingernail or small screwdriver in between the cover and car, gently pry enough to get a grip on the light cover and pull away from the car. The whole taillight cover should now be removed. Now remove the bad bulb, pushing down on the bulb and turning a 1/4 turn left. Replace with new bulb, first pushing down then 1/4 turn right.

The Suzuki LTR450 is extremely quick, but with stock gearing will run 20 mph, due its low gearing for tracks.

That is BS i own one and i toped it out at 87 off the showroom floor dead stock.

I can't give you the technical jargon, but let me give this a shot. First off, you don't need a screwdriver, so don't look for any screws. Open the hood and look straight down at the headlight assembly. On each side of the assembly, at the top, you will see what looks like the short end of a rather large Allen wrench. Turn both of these "L" shaped rods toward you, and then pull them straight up and out. They literally hold the headlight assembly in place. Pay attention to how they come out - they're a bit more difficult to put back than they are to get out. Once the rods are out the assembly can be popped out, and the bulb is easily replaced. Be sure not to touch the new bulb with your fingers. The oil from your hands can ruin it. At least that's what the guy from Auto Zone told me.

The key to replacing the assembly is aligning it properly so that the rods can slide easily back in place.

1 Disconnect the battery. 2 Unplugg the three electrical wires.(one may have a bolt) 3 Loosen the three support bolt. 4 Lift the alternater slightly with a crowbar to release the tension on the belt. 5 Remove the belt. 6 Remove the three support bolt and the alternater should come right off. If the engine is in the car..... after step 2 insert the following 2a. Remove Carburator and Intake manifolds where connected to the heads. This also means you remove the heater pipe and the rubber fittings. Make sure nothing falls into the resulting intakes in the heads after removing the intake pipes. Now loosen the alternator from the alternator stand and remove the belt. Also. remove 4 nuts that hold the cooling fan assembly(still connected to the alternator) to the doghouse. OK everything is loose now. 2b. Loosen the screws at the base of the doghouse- one on each side Maybe a short screwdriver will do it, maybe a wrench. 2c. Get a piece of wood and get ready.. now lift the doghouse and shove the wood in to raise the doghouse a couple inches. 2d. Loosen the nuts at the base of the generator stand and remove stand. Now everything falls out. 3. The alternator comes out with the cooling fan attached in the rear; this needs to be removed and reused, as does the inner pully. You will need a 36mm socket for the fan end and a flat screwdriver jammed between the alternator housing and inner pully on the other end to successfully break it free. You may also need a gear puller if the fan and inner pully do not agree with coming off the alternator shaft once the nuts are removed. Also be aware that there is a Woodruff key on both ends which will likely fall off; they must be reused (it prevents the fan/pully from spinning on the shaft.) (Note: If you end up buying a large 36mm socket, it can also used to remove the rear wheel drums when doing brake/bearing replacement. You'll probably find it needs a large 3/4" drive, but a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter will do, assuming you have a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar.) Its a frustrating job that will take you several hours, but very satisfying when you realize how much money you saved doing it yourself, and hey, You Did IT!

You should in the UK, as your car will fail the MOT test if your horn does not work.

The red battery symbol indicates that there is a problem with the charging system.

It could be the alternator (faulty), voltage regulator (old), bad battery (old). or a blown fuse.

If possible, after checking the fuses, you may have to recharge the battery overnight and then drive the vehicle to an automotive store (a close one) that can test the suspected equipment. I say this because it is near impossible to remove the alternator on a 2001 beetle (I had the same problem) and could not remove it myself to take in for testing, due to the tight space of its location and the other systems that were blocking access to the 2 bolts.

If the alternator tests good, look at replacing the voltage regulator. The alternator can still be putting out the correct amount of charge and be good, but if the regulator goes out it may not show on the test. The voltage regulator is a small voltage sensor with brushes in it...should be around $75

pop the lense off from the out side of the car. Once the lense is off unplug the wires from the bulb plug, the marker should then pull right out. If light is not working but the bulb is goof it may be the plug inside the marker light, as I just found out todday

Check under both front seats for a yellow wire. The airbag wire can become severed over time.

Mechanics will try to charge you up to $1000 to fix this. You will be able to fix this yourself if you are able to reattach the wire. At the very least, you can tell your mechanic that you found the severed wire and save yourself some serious money.

The dimmer switch is said to be included with the steering column switch. Before replacing disconnect battery and removing steering wheel. After removing the steering column switch trim, unscrew hex bolt. Remove and replace switch and return components.

It is actually very easy. Open your trunk. You will see a cap on the inside part of the rear light. It has a wing-nut that you need to turn counterclockwise and remove. That releases the tension on the outside plastic cover. Now with tender patience you will pull out the entire rear cover from the outside. It has retention spring around the outside cap that you may have to gingerly pry on with a flat-head screw driver. Be careful not to chip the body paint. Once you have removed the light fixture you will see a bulb housing that you turn a quarter turn that will allow you to replace the old bulb.

Replace everything in reverse order.

It is located on the engine block just below and to the left of the distributor. It has a big nut on it with a wire connection coming out of it. BE CAREFUL replacing this as it is very easy to break. Just hand tight, then a little more...

port elizabeth

1) remove oil cap

2) put in oil

3) marvel at your accomplishment

I'm assuming you mean the old, air-cooled beetle. First, remove the engine: Disconnect the battery under the seat, ground wire first. Then remove the wires from the alternator (or generator if it's that old), marking them to know which one goes where when you put it all back together. Then remove the wire to the coil and choke heater (if it has one). Then remove and plug the fuel line using something that keeps fuel from running all over the place. Then disconnect the accelerator cable. To make things easier, drain the oil before actually removing the engine. Then with the rear of the vehicle raised about 2 ft. on jack stands or preferably ramps, put a floor jack under the engine to support it then pull the 4 nuts off that hold the engine in. There will be 2 bolts with nuts at the top, It's easiest to have someone reach behind the engine from the top to hold the inside while someone else gets underneath the vehicle to remove loosen the nuts. Then remove the nuts from the studs on the bottom. With all engine nuts removed, work the engine backwards angling slightly down to remove the engine. With the engine removed, remove the fan belt by first removing the center bolt of the alternator which allows the split pulley to come apart then remove the strap around the generator/alternator, then remove all of the "tin work" from around the engine, first the fan tower then the tin work over the heads. Note the position of the air diverters at the bottom of the cylinders and make sure you replace them when you put the engine back together. Remove the rocker covers by prying the large wire retainer down. Remove the rocker arms. Remove the 8 head bolts. Carefully work the heads off the cylinders, using caution to not break the seal between the cylinders and the crankcase. Now you have the heads off, examine the heads for erosion around the faulty head-gasket. If there is much damage it will be necessary to take the head to a machine shop that specializes in VW engine repair. A good shop will be able to mill the head to give you a good seating surface. While the head is out, especially if you have over 50,000 miles on the engine without a valve job, have the machine shop rebuild the heads with new guides and exhaust valves. Reassembly is just a reverse of the above process, but make certain that you have a well calibrated torque wrench and do not over-tighten the head studs, since they are notorious for pulling out of the crankcase. Also, make certain that you use new push-rod tube seals on both ends and make certain that you slightly stretch the push-rod tubes before replacing the heads. The machine shop can give you the correct torque specs for the head studs and give you the correct valve gap for setting up the rockers. VW engines work well when given the attention that they disserve, but are notoriously picky if you do it wrong. It's easy to mess one up, but it's a lot of fun when you put it back together and it runs well. BTW, if the engine has over 100,000 miles on it you will probably want to rebuild the lower end too. Make certain that any lower end rebuild includes a machinist checking the case to determin if it's necessary to have an align-bore and always have the rods re-conditioned, both little AND big end. Use all new parts when working the lower end, including new oil pump, new pistons and cylinders and a gasket set from a reputable manufacturer. Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

Remove Wolfsburg badge, remove brown cable. Unscrew nut size 32 from the shaft. Take away the wheel. On some models (Type I's and Karmann Ghias), the brown cable is not connected to anything, it sits in an insulating sleeve in the end of the shaft and all you see is a brass contact. If you ground the brown wire with your wrench/socket, the horn will sound. A little penetrating oil between the shaft splines and the wheel hub will make life easier.

2000 VWs use ODB2. There are some test equipment that do not conform the initialization specs on ISO 9141-2, implemented by VW on some cars, models 1999 to 2001, resulting in a communication problem. If you are having this problem getting smog check, and you have no aftermarket equipment on the car that could be incorrectly installed, then I would suggest to stop by the dealership.

Erm yes that should be your brake pads, you should get them replaced quick or the damage will be even worse! Or Could be your engine, so i would get them both replaced promptly.