VW New Beetle

As long as it is out of gear and the brakes are off.

If it's an Old Beetle then you should buy the Bently manual for your year bug. It has all the info you need and is actually pretty informative. It's really not that hard. Mainly just need to jack the engine up far enough to clear the mount bolts and put in new ones. I think you don't need to pull the motor.

In order to lubricate a car window, simply spray some WD-40 inside the window. If you do not have WD-40, rubbing butter on the inside of the window will also work.

The spark plug gap for a 2000 VW Jetta 2.0L is .040"

sounds like a bad headlight turnsignal combo switch,,,,i just replaced mine cause the high beams was not coming on, got a used 1 for 50 bucks works fine now!

Oxygen Sensor is in the exhaust system. It measure the amount of chemicals in you exhaust and then tells the computer to either turn on the EGR or adjust the air/fuel mix. There will be 2 on the exhaust system. One before the catalytic converter and one after it.

How do you rebuild a carburetor on a 1989 corolla?" http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006f351 full guide, but you need a kit to do it, you cant really just use all of your old o-ring and expendable parts.

30 -35 mpg

its about $200

buying the tune up kit is about $90. in New York it costs about $250 at a workshop including the parts.

If it is a new beetle you use G12 mixed half and half with distilled water.

I bought a Haynes manual to answer this question and guess what? IT DOESN'T ANSWER IT!!!! If you ever find an answer for this, let me know too! fall-apart-Dave@hotmail.co.UK

Hi. There is a drain plug at the bottom of your manual transmission. And there is another plug with17 mm opening for an Allen wrench. It is located on the front side of your transmission. When you take the plug out, there should be the oil just level with the bottom of the hole. Haynes manuals used to be good.

FYI - The bulb for the 2006 is DIFFERENT than the 98-05 beetles

GE - H7 55w I will start with the tools I used: (Locking mechanism)

1/4" drive ratchet with a 10" extension and a 3/16" socket. I found my 3/16 socket would not fit, I had to use a 6mm

* A 3/16" bit driver will also work if the handle is long enough (secondary locking mechanism)

wooden paint stir stick (freebie from your local hardware or paint store)

Passenger's Side

This is the easiest of the two as there is not as much in your way of both locking mechanisms. If you shine a light towards the front of the bottom of the light housing inside the engine compartment you will see a small silver pin with a 3/16" head that has instructions on how to lock/unlock the primary locking mechanism printed on the black plastic above the pin. Turn the pin ONLY 1/2 a turn and take care as the pin should turn VERY EASILY. Now the light housing should be able to move slightly out of it's seat, but it will not come more than about 1" out of the front of the car. A secondary locking mechanism still holds it in place. If you look a little further back, about 3" - 4", from the primary locking pin; behind a wrapped wire, a/c line, and the power steering reservoir; you will see a horizontal silver lever, about 3" - 4" in length, pointing towards the front of the car. Just simply hold this lever down about 1" to 2" and pull out the light housing at the same time. The entire housing should freely and easily come completely out of the front of the car. Take care removing it as there are no wires connected to it and it will fall to the floor if you are not holding on to it. Just open the back of the housing and replace the bulb that is out.

Driver's Side

This is the most difficult one. The battery location is your enemy. In front of the battery, if you look with a flashlight, you will see the primary locking mechanism. It is the only silver looking pin there with a 3/16" head. It looks like the headlamp adjusters on other cars. There are instructions printed on the black plastic above it. You should ONLY turn this 1/2 a turn, and you will NOT need to put much effort into turning it as it should turn very easily. You are not done yet. The entire headlamp assembly should be able to pull out of the fender about 1" now, then it will stop as if something else is holding it. There is a secondary locking mechanism that is just a simple metal lever. If you look on the back of the battery, between the air filter housing and the battery, you should see the end of the small shiny silver lever. Just simply hold this lever down about 1" to 2" and pull out the light housing at the same time. The entire housing should freely and easily come completely out of the front of the car. Take care removing it as there are no wires connected to it and it will fall to the floor if you are not holding on to it. Just open the back of the housing and replace the bulb that is out. Putting the housing back to the assembly. It is not as simple as reverse the procedure above. there is no guard or anything helping you to slide it in correctly. There is a chance of misalignment that the light would not come on. The key is to ask someone to pressure the lever down, or with a stick thick enough to hold the lever down by pressure on the stick by the battery and air filter housing (about 1.5" wide). Try to align visually or use marker(s) on housing and car body before removal to help you align. carefully slide it in. This is the only way I find that work satisfactory. Once it is tight fit (if it is not aligned right, there is gap between body and head light cover), turn the lock nut counter-clockwise to lock it in place. The last thing is to remove the stick. then test headlight.

Get John Muirs -"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, a manual for the Compleat Idiot" and Bentleys "workshop manual". They have a huge amount of info, John Muir is a "real world" work-book and the Bently Manual is the VW "Official Workshop Manual" . It's actually a Generator on early '72's and earlier unless it's been retrofitted already I believe, but any way they are removed the same. Mark the wires so you know where they go when you get it back together. Take the pulleys off, and then the band that holds the gen/alt to the stand and then take the four bolts off of the fan shroud. The fan is connected to the other side of that panel. That whole thing comes out so move what ever you can to be able to pull it out. When you have it out look on the other side and in the middle of the fan is a BIG nut. Take that off and the panels come loose. If it's an Alternator then remember how the panels are assembled as they also are set a certain way for the cooling of the Alternator.

Take to Dealership!

Yes it does.

See related link for a picture of one.

You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type You simply unbolt the two floor bolts, remove the shifter, and install the new one the same way. Be aware early (65 and older?) are a pin type, later are the more common ball type

I have a 1998 VW beetle and my dipstick tube fell apart too. I cannot recall exactly where on the web that I ordered one, but I just found one at "rapid parts". Put in your make/year/model and search for "dipstick"...I did this and up popped part number

VWW067751, the tube for about $8.50 plus shipping. To make the shipping more worthwhile, you may want to order new wiper blades, air filter, etc.

The work was very simple. The tube is just seated in the engine and stays there with gravity and a bit of tube pressure. I took a long set of needle nose plyers and removed the remnant of the old tube and then just put the new tube in. It was prettty simple stuff....kind of like human birds and bees activity.

Good luck...on all fronts.

KHN

as long as you take car of it, forever... I have a 68 running strong.

I did a spark plug change on my 1998 VW beetle. It's very tedious and time consuming. My brother who is a mechanic helped me and he broke my spark plugs wires. It better to find a shop that you can trust to do the work. Make sure that you get the NGK spark plugs and I telling you know you might want to get spark plug wires. The run around 100.00 because of the metal tips. If you can help it don't go the dealer.

the 1994 oldsmobile lss has both the computer controlls the govenor

The air bag light is illuminating because the restraint control module has detected a problem in the airbag system. In this case, the airbags may not deploy in the event of a collision. The only way to properly "turn out" the light, is to get the problem fixed. If a technician were to disable the system or just remove the bulb, there could be legal problems later, especially if someone were hurt or killed due to this act. My recommendation then, is to stop by your local repair shop, and have it checked.

fuse or broken ground in wires

Absolutely. We had the engine light go on, on two consecutive trips to do maintenance and oil changes to our 2004 Touareg here in NM, were told to ignore the message, it didn't mean anything, and 3 days later the engine blew. They said it was because the engine was oil-poor, even though the oil dipstick always showed full, even when the engine blew.

Volswagen Corp and the dealer will take no responsibility for this car - they say it's just a design flaw they're not responsible for!

Try that on in the middle of a recession and being unemployed!

terratoppers@windstream.net

None of this information is guaranteed, and if you don't know what you're doing, I suggest you ask a qualified shop to do it. Remember, you're playing with enough current in an automobile battery to injure you seriously or even kill you. Obviously I take no responsibility for you or for the information in this post. But if you're crazy enough to try...

Remove the battery cover by pushing on the tab toward the front end that says "Push." It just lifts off.

Remove the two battery leads using a 10mm socket. Do NOT over-loosen, as the bolts contain stops for the nuts and you'll jam the nuts or strip the heads of the bolts.

The battery is surrounded by two items, a hard plastic "cage" and an insulating sleeve (which is inside the "cage"). Remove the front half of the cage by lifting straight up. It takes a little pressure -- not a lot -- because there are plastic tabs which snap in below. Then remove the rear half. They look very similar, so be sure to note which is front and which is rear. This will save you some grief when you go to reinstall them.

Finally, remove the insulating sleeve by lifting straight up. It also has a simple closure on one corner (in my case the front driver's side), but it seems like it doesn't matter where that goes.

Now you're looking at the bare battery. Look down the left (US passenger) side of the battery. At the bottom, 1-2 inches from the battery itself, is a 13mm bolt which holds a bracket to keep the battery from wobbling. You'll need an extension for your ratchet to remove this, as it's about 9-10 inches down.

REMOVE THIS BOLT CAREFULLY! If you drop it, you won't get it back without a trip to your local mechanic.

Once you lift the bolt out, you can remove the rectangular bracket by reaching down and sliding it out to the left. REMOVE THIS BRACKET CAREFULLY. If you drop it, you won't get it back without a trip to your local mechanic. Not that I'd know, of course.

Once the bracket has fallen down into the pan -- er, I mean, once you lift the bracket out -- the battery is held with very slight tension by plastic clips on the right (US driver) bottom side. There is nothing to remove, but if you lift the battery straight up, you may break the clips. Instead, lift up gently on the left (US passenger) side of the battery first, and the right side should follow.

To reinstall, just reverse the order. The biggest pain is getting the two parts of the plastic cage back together, but the whole procedure is really just a five-minute shot. They key is the 13mm bolt and bracket under the battery.