VW Polo

You don't.The unit is integrated and the whole thing has to be replaced.Sneaky VW

I'd have to say your alternator needs replacing. And your battery probably does too. This is a relatively easy job to do yourself. Plus it will save you about $2-300. The mechanics would charge over $300 parts and labor to fix this! If you do decide to take it to a shop, please find one that will put on parts that you purchase yourself from another vendor! And don't take it to a dealer!!! They will rob you, trust me!

Before you decide to fix anything, and if you are able to get your car started, take it to Advance Auto or another parts store and have a battery test done to see if your battery has gone bad or needs a charge. Plus they can run a series of tests on your engine's electrical system to see if the alternator is operating with a proper voltage. If I remember correctly, the voltage for a good alternator should be 12-14 volts. The store should do these tests at no cost to you.

You can find a decent remanufactured alternator for around $80 - $130 at an auto parts store or online. A new battery will run you about $60. You will need a decent socket wrench (ratchet) set to do this, plus a medium-sized breaker bar with either a 14 mm or 9/16" socket to loosen and maneuver the serpentine belt tensioner pulley ( Advance Auto has a belt tensioner tool which they rent out for about $30; you get your money back when you return it). I believe you'll need a 1/2" socket to undo the bolts holding the alternator to its bracket (other socket sizes will be needed for smaller bolts involved...it's trial and error at that point...I can't remember off the top of my head what socket sizes you'll otherwise need). WD-40 comes in handy for loosening up those tight bolts, and you'll almost certainly need some pumice-based hand cleaner...this can be a dirty job!

This job is a relative piece of cake (at least you'll think so once it's all over with). A Chilton manual for your model car is the best reference for repairs I have come across. They run from $15-$30 online (ebay is a great place to look for one!)

The job basically involves removing the serpentine belt from the alternator, removing the alternator bolts, loosening the bolts for the bracket's heat shield and the bracket itself (notice I said "loosen", not "remove"), swiveling the bracket up and away from the alternator. Then you remove the electrical wiring (just 2 cables!) from the alternator, installing your new one, and doing everything I just said in reverse. It's a little more complicated than that (you'll see once you get started) but don't be discouraged...common sense will tell you what to do. Just two things: Only do this work when the engine is completely cold, and make sure that the electrical wires are put back within the heat shield when you put your new alternator on. The wires are very close to the exhaust manifold, which gets extremely hot, and you don't want those wires to melt!)

You can do this!!! This is FUN!!! I bet that if you fix this yourself, you'll be so proud and exhilarated that you'll start to wonder what else you can fix :) Just be safe, above all, and try to have the manual handy and an experienced pair of eyes over your shoulder. Go have at it! Best of luck!

Walmart also sells the tool for removal for 'bout $3. I bought a single CD player to replace the changer from Crutchfield and they supplied the tool as part of the package. My CD changer failed due to one of the black plastic trays that holds the CD.

You just need a DIN tool for factory stereo removal. I know Best Buy sells them, also Crutchfield sells them. They should only be several dollars. Once you have them, you'll just put them into the those little squarish holes on the right and left side of the stereo. Since the tools are U-shaped, one point goes into each hole. Then, you should feel a little spring-resistance and when the points are as far as you can push without too much effort, you pull them outwards (towards the left and right) and then pull the stereo out. On the back of the stereo you'll find the wiring harness and antenna wire. Pull those, and you're all set.

Also, don't forget to turn off your car and since power still goes into the stereo while the car is off, so take proper precautions to prevent shocking yourself or damaging the unit.

instead of buying a tool, all I had to do was take my car to a local Ford dealer and they pulled it out right there for me

There are two belts on that car the v belt has a tensioner under the car and the multirib has a spring tensioner located just above the a/c compressor you release with a shifting spanner.

This should be located under the steering wheel to the right in the fusebox. The relays are easily distinguishable from fuses as they are grey in colour and the fuel pump relay tends to have smaller contacts (visible once pulled out) then others such as the indicator relay.

Press and hold Reset button which is the button immediately below the speedometer. Switch the ignition on and keep the button depressed until "---" appears in the display. Release the button and switch the ignition off. If required clear the "OIL" indication from the display in the same way.

Take a look under the cover of the fuse box cover...the layout should be there

Directly below the light, under the bumper cover, is a black triangular piece of plastic. Remove the 3 screws with the proper sized torx bit. This will give you access to the lamp wiring. Turn the light housing counter clockwise about a quarter inch and remove. Lamp can then be replaced. After doing so, rub the lamp with a alcohol wipe to remove any oils left from your finger, as not doing so will severely shorten the life of the lamp by creating a hot spot. Installation is the reverse of removal.

It means it has an error, it can be several things. Hopefully it is just a sensor error which is cheap to fix vs a new computer system which can run $2k plus. Best bet is to replace the brake position sensor first and if that does not fix the problem then you have to go to the dealer and have them diagnose the car for you, most dealers will do that for free and if it seems like an easy problem that you can fix just buy the parts and make it an afternoon DIY.

After replacing the break switch if problem continues to exist then replace the relay that can be found under the hood inside the fuse box. look for (esp/bas or I guess #38).

1., Lower the steering wheel to limit and set it dead straight 2., Remove the two screws holding the shroud. 3., Pull the shroud outwards, (two nibs around the bolts and

a clip at he bottom will work against you). 4., Lift out the shroud up behind the steering wheel 5., Unscrew further two screws (identical to previous two). 6., Tilt the speedo towards yourself and manoevre it out.

Unclip the two connectors while doing it. 7., It should just fit through the steering wheel sideways.

yes engine damage will occur should the timing belt snap in service

The cost of an oil seal for a VW Polo can vary depending on factors such as the specific model year, the type of oil seal needed, and where you purchase it. Generally, prices can range from $5 to $30 for the part itself. If you include labor costs for installation, the total expense may increase significantly, potentially reaching $100 or more. It's advisable to check with local auto parts stores or online retailers for specific pricing.

On a 1997 VW Polo 1.0, the clutch is located on the left side of the driver's footwell, operated by a pedal. The clutch assembly itself is situated inside the engine compartment, mounted on the transmission. To access it for maintenance or replacement, the gearbox typically needs to be removed. Always consult the vehicle's service manual for specific guidance and safety precautions.