VW Polo

Change at 60,000 miles.

You must remove the skid plate to access the oil filter.

There is a black triangle at the front of the side window inside. pry or pop off that black triangle off and you will find screws that hold the mirror on. Unscrew the screws and gently pull the mirror until you find the elctrical connection plug, undo that....and your mirror is free. If it is only the mirror (glass part) that is broke, go to Pep Boys or Autozone and see if they sell replacement mirrors. I am talking about a thin piece of mirror with double sided tape that you peel off and put over the broken mirror glass. It saved me a lot of bucks from changing out mirrors when all that was broken was the (glass) part.

It's a big job and you'll need a service manual to find all the right disconnects and fasteners.

Remove wheels Re-Install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body Replace pads inner and outer Re-Install caliper on rotor PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIO TO MOVING VEHICLE

could be instrument panel 15amp

You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

could you display a diagram of a timing chain for vw polo 1.2 12 valve

there is a way by opening the cap manually from inside the port bagage there is a refer in the owners manual

The best way is to just get a new cup holder to put in between the seats. If this does not work, then you can get a replacement part.

Several locations may provide theÊengine number but look at the engine itself. The correct number should be near the conjunction of itsÊcylinder and the block.

Small screwdriver to try and flick the C clip off from behind the winding handle. There is big plastic washer between handle and door panel. Clip is between washer and handle.

autizone or junk yard

check the fuel pipe immediately behind the fuel injector, to the right. The flexible plastic or rubber pipe tends to wear of over time. check all clamps around the pipes. the problem (leaks) are only apparent when the engine is running, and only if something moves the pipes, where internal pressure will make fuel leak.

Hi my had the same problem the window went down and occasionally would go up, when the door panel came off water had corroded the door wiring harness but it was easily and cheaply repaired with a used part .

Jack up truck pull front wheels reach in back of brake caliper insert a 3/8 Allen wrench losen both Allen head cap screws top and bottom remove caliper from brackets and over top of disc rotor don't take old pads out yet using large plyers squeeze pad back into caliper remove old pads install new pads with new tin brackets place pad and caliper back over disc and replace Allen bolts

It is OBD2 in models after 1995.5

on the drivers side dash open the front door anthere is a panel on the side take it of an there it is

Yes you can just by using science and doing some research

Generally when your engine is up to temperature the needle should sit in the middle of the gauge. If your getting an abnormal engine temperature reading check the engine coolant level and thermostat. Also if the fan isn't engaging the engine could overheat (if you drive round in heavy city traffic and you cant hear the fan kicking in this could be the reason for the abnormal reading.

when i first got my polo (2000 model) the temperature reading would read normal but would suddenly drop down to zero, changing the temperature sensor in the engine remedied this.

hope this helps!

I agree this is correct, In addition to what he saidyou can also check the main hose of the radiator - the hose going toward the radiator. If you feel to much pressure even if you just drove for 10mins on average weather then radiator must be clogged and needs to be cleaned

You don't.The unit is integrated and the whole thing has to be replaced.Sneaky VW

I'd have to say your alternator needs replacing. And your battery probably does too. This is a relatively easy job to do yourself. Plus it will save you about $2-300. The mechanics would charge over $300 parts and labor to fix this! If you do decide to take it to a shop, please find one that will put on parts that you purchase yourself from another vendor! And don't take it to a dealer!!! They will rob you, trust me!

Before you decide to fix anything, and if you are able to get your car started, take it to Advance Auto or another parts store and have a battery test done to see if your battery has gone bad or needs a charge. Plus they can run a series of tests on your engine's electrical system to see if the alternator is operating with a proper voltage. If I remember correctly, the voltage for a good alternator should be 12-14 volts. The store should do these tests at no cost to you.

You can find a decent remanufactured alternator for around $80 - $130 at an auto parts store or online. A new battery will run you about $60. You will need a decent socket wrench (ratchet) set to do this, plus a medium-sized breaker bar with either a 14 mm or 9/16" socket to loosen and maneuver the serpentine belt tensioner pulley ( Advance Auto has a belt tensioner tool which they rent out for about $30; you get your money back when you return it). I believe you'll need a 1/2" socket to undo the bolts holding the alternator to its bracket (other socket sizes will be needed for smaller bolts involved...it's trial and error at that point...I can't remember off the top of my head what socket sizes you'll otherwise need). WD-40 comes in handy for loosening up those tight bolts, and you'll almost certainly need some pumice-based hand cleaner...this can be a dirty job!

This job is a relative piece of cake (at least you'll think so once it's all over with). A Chilton manual for your model car is the best reference for repairs I have come across. They run from $15-$30 online (ebay is a great place to look for one!)

The job basically involves removing the serpentine belt from the alternator, removing the alternator bolts, loosening the bolts for the bracket's heat shield and the bracket itself (notice I said "loosen", not "remove"), swiveling the bracket up and away from the alternator. Then you remove the electrical wiring (just 2 cables!) from the alternator, installing your new one, and doing everything I just said in reverse. It's a little more complicated than that (you'll see once you get started) but don't be discouraged...common sense will tell you what to do. Just two things: Only do this work when the engine is completely cold, and make sure that the electrical wires are put back within the heat shield when you put your new alternator on. The wires are very close to the exhaust manifold, which gets extremely hot, and you don't want those wires to melt!)

You can do this!!! This is FUN!!! I bet that if you fix this yourself, you'll be so proud and exhilarated that you'll start to wonder what else you can fix :) Just be safe, above all, and try to have the manual handy and an experienced pair of eyes over your shoulder. Go have at it! Best of luck!

Walmart also sells the tool for removal for 'bout $3. I bought a single CD player to replace the changer from Crutchfield and they supplied the tool as part of the package. My CD changer failed due to one of the black plastic trays that holds the CD.

You just need a DIN tool for factory stereo removal. I know Best Buy sells them, also Crutchfield sells them. They should only be several dollars. Once you have them, you'll just put them into the those little squarish holes on the right and left side of the stereo. Since the tools are U-shaped, one point goes into each hole. Then, you should feel a little spring-resistance and when the points are as far as you can push without too much effort, you pull them outwards (towards the left and right) and then pull the stereo out. On the back of the stereo you'll find the wiring harness and antenna wire. Pull those, and you're all set.

Also, don't forget to turn off your car and since power still goes into the stereo while the car is off, so take proper precautions to prevent shocking yourself or damaging the unit.

instead of buying a tool, all I had to do was take my car to a local Ford dealer and they pulled it out right there for me

There are two belts on that car the v belt has a tensioner under the car and the multirib has a spring tensioner located just above the a/c compressor you release with a shifting spanner.

This should be located under the steering wheel to the right in the fusebox. The relays are easily distinguishable from fuses as they are grey in colour and the fuel pump relay tends to have smaller contacts (visible once pulled out) then others such as the indicator relay.