Air Filters and Intake Manifolds

I don't believe you have one on that model; however, do check with a buick dealer and if they show one, have them show you its location.

This truly depends on the engine type. Some engines have very flat intake manifolds and a bolt can simply sit. However to err on the side of caution you should assume that this "small" bit could go into a valve. This would mean a bent valve or at the very worst it would travel all the way to the piston resulting in certain bore damage. Try a magnetic probe or , if you must, remove the manifold.

97 Camaro, Ram trucks, Jeeps, Mitsubishi truck

yes and no. which toyota?

If you are facing the car it is on the left (passenger) side of the valve cover. You won't be able to actually see it. You have to remove a plastic cover (it just unscrews) and then you can pull it right out.

I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS and the cabin air filter is located under the hood on the passenger side on top of the firewall near the windshield wiper. The cover has screws holding it down.

When you say "behind the starter", do you mean between the starter and the transmission "dust cover"? If that's where the oil is comming from, it's probably a "rear main seal" that is leaking. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap. If you see a cloud of oil vapor exiting and can feel air comming out from a few inches away you probably have "blow-by". That's a condition caused by high pressure gasses leaking past the piston rings when the engine is running. When that occurs it usually destroys the rear main seals and there just isn't much that can be done short of a replacment engine. Rear main seals can also go bad for other reasons. Also: This is a 3.1 litre V-6 and it is derived from the old 2.8L engine. The 2.8L had a distributor and it was installed at the rear of the engine- the area where the transmission is attached. The 3.1L engine shares the same basic engine "block" as the 2.8L and the hole where the distributor used to be located is now used by an oil pump drive adapter that is driven by the camshaft which then in turn drives the engine oil pump via a 6" long HEX-sided shaft. This "adapter" is sealed with a thin brown "o-ring" and they seem to be only available at the GM dealer. At least I only buy them there. The O-ring is not expensive but the replacement is too involved for someone without tools, knowledge and patience. I say this because the most aggravating thing about replacing this o-ring is that the heater pipe connector usually snaps off at the slightest touch and then you have to spend time drilling or otherwise extracting the remanants of the connector and installing a new one. I always plan on this happening, you should too. Oil leaks from this adapter and it's o-ring and then runs down the block between the engine and the transmission bellhousing and appears to be caused by a leaking rear main seal but isn't. Also, intake gasket end seal leaks can leak oil in the same way with the same diagnosis- rear main seal-NOT. Start repairing oil leaks from the top of the engine down. Gravity complicates things sometimes. Things are not always as they appear.

There is an article here on how to change an air filter ; http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_change_air_filter.htm

It needs to be charged by a specialist. There they will drain the refrigerative and compressed air and inject an ultra violet dye and new refrigerant. Then when they pressuirse it up and test it they hold out a uv lamp to see if the AC is leaking and where from...... Then charge you £1000's to fix it!!

An intake manifold directs air (air/fuel mixture on carburated engines) to the cylinder head. Depending on the runner length/diameter it can boost torque in a certain rpm range known as "manifold tuning". For example short runners works better for high rpm engines versues a long runner manifold, which is better for low/mid range power.

The car will run 'rich'. There will be more smoke from the exhaust and less power available. Fuel consumption will suffer. The engine will run poorly. If not attended to it could stop working altogether

Check fuel pump and fuel filter.

pull it up in front area just behind cooler fan(it holds on 4 rubber gasket no damage believe me) and not to much up just app 10 cm to remove safe a rubber hose.

un bolt the hose and 2 screws on the right side of the air box... pull on right side and the top of box will remove. swap filters and ur good to go..

The cabin air filter on a 2000 BMW 323ci is located under the glove compartment. It filters air which enters and is circulated through the passenger compartment.

You don't have a problem with the engine at all.

You truck came factory with a governor on it that will not let the engine run any faster. THANKS to GM.

Hello expert

Where do I find the cabin filter to replace for Lexus ES300 Yr 1998. Thanks very much.

for a 95 eclipse it cost $399 parts and labor.

I was searching for the same thing and came accross a site called "torkspecs.com" they say 33 ft/lbs but I want to make sure myself since it is a Auminum intak.e. I hope this is help to you.

No more than 35 ft/lbs. To be very accurate with the torque, use a 3/8 drive torque wrench not a 1/2 drive. The 1/2 inch drive torque wrench is long and designed to torque bolts that are at least 1/2 inch in diameter and require at least 60 lbs of torque. The intake manifold bolts are 3/8th with a flange. If you lose a bolt be sure that you use only flanged bolts. A flange bolt is a bolt with a molded flat washer. In my experience in the trade of rebuilding engines, never use a 1/2 drive torque wrench to tighten bolts under a 1/2 inch in diameter. FYI the term (drive) is the size of the square part of the socket and socket wrench. Available in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and ect.

This is fairly simple to do. First drain the radiator of coolant. Disconnect and label vacuum and fuel lines to TBI (Throttle body), as well as the throttle and kick-down cables from TBI. Label and remove spark plug wires (1-8) one at a time from the distributor. Remove the distributo cap and mark the orientation of the distributor rotor to the engine (where it points to), this is important so you can put it back exactly how it is taken out. Unplug the wires going into the base (3 wires). Loosen the hold down clamp bolt (9/16) at the base of the distributor (on the manifold). Lift the distributor straight out and set aside. There are 12 bolts that hold the intake manifold down, remove them all. Carefully pry the intake off the block and heads. set manifold aside. You'll need to clean the intake, block and heads of the old gasket material. A razor blade or sharp putyy knife works wel, just br careful not to gouge any of the mating surfaces. You also do not want any of the old material to fall inside the engine, so old rags or paper towel stuffed into the engine intake ports prevents this. Brake cleaner or Carb/choke cleaner will help get some of the residue off. Once you get all the old gaskets off everything, you can start to prep for re-assembly. Wipe the valley (area under the intake) with a lint-free rag soaked with above mentioned cleaner. The new gaskets are labeled (stamped) engine or intake side, don't put them on upside down or they WILL leak! I use aviation form-a-gasket (it looks like molasses) instead of silicone, but that's just a preference. Put the sealant of your choice around the water jacket holes (2 per side) ONLY. Also on the end pieces on the block (top and bottom). Put the gaskets on the ENGINE, then set the intake on slowly, straight down! The bolts can be started by hand until snug, then tighten them down starting in the center (under TBI) and working towards front and back, alternate from left to right. Torque to 20-25 lb/ft. This ensures an even seal and to prevent warping the intake, which WILL cause leaks! You will need new distributor and water inlet gaskets as well. Now dropping in the distributor is tricky, it has to be put in exactly as it was removed. The mark from earlier is key to the engine firing the first time. It is very easy to put a distributor in 180 Degrees out of normal. If this occurs (don't worry it happens to the best of us!) The rotor MUST point to the mark you made earlier. The trick is to set the rotor pointing BACK from your mark, as the distributor drops down it will rotate to your original mark. If it does not, pull it up and rotate back a little more and try again. If you have problems with this step, take out the #1 Spark plug and rotate engine (by hand) until the mark on the bottom pulley is on ZERO Degrees (there is a line on the pulley). The rotor should point to the #1 spark plug hole. Connect everything back on top (Throttle and kick-down cable) and anything else you disconnected and plug wires on cap (Firing Order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 , fill with fresh antifreeze and water mix. If you have done everything carefully, the engine should start right up. CHECK FOR LEAKS! If water is leaking OUTSIDE the engine, it is leaking INSIDE. Retighten bolts after engine is warm. Good Luck!

Purchase a Purolator Cabin Filter. It comes with complete instructions.

You will need to replace the intake gaskets to fix your problem. The HEAD GASKETS will not be your problem.

Here is tutorial with pics...

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/cabin_filter_removal/index.php

0.4 mm for exhaust valves and 0.35 for inlet

A throttle body can be cleaned without removal. Several spray cleaners for throttle bodies are available at your local auto parts.