0
Air Filters and Intake Manifolds
Air filters are devices that remove solid particles such as dust, mold, and bacteria from the air. Used in building ventilation systems and engines, they contain an intake manifold that is primarily tasked to optimize the system/engine’s performance and efficiency.
2,054 Questions
Try the link below, you can plug in the year, make, model of your car and it will tell you if this fits your car. If that doesn't help, the second link is to Fram's product assistance 800 number.
What will happen with the intake manifold runner stuck closed?
car wont run its like a carb if the choke is close the car cant breath
Where is the cab air filter on a kenworth?
Which model? There are different cab filters for different models.. on the T660, it's encased in a plastic enclosure on the right hand side of the vehicle.. you pull the rubber detention strap to access it.. those can simply be washed out and reused if not damaged. On the T700, it's on the right side of the vehicle, at the top of the firewall. The 680 uses a two piece cab filter in a plastic enclosure on the right side of the vehicle by the firewall... you slide a plate to the left and remove it, then you can pull them out.
Where can one purchase a portable cabin?
General Shelters website has a wide variety of portable cabin's to choose from. To name a few, the Texas Two Step, Corner Suite, the Cottage, and the Blue Bonnet.
How do you replace the air filter on a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica?
There are three screws that need to be taken off when changing the filter; the two that hold the top down(located on the left and right side of the casing as you are looking down at it from the passenger side of vehicle) and the one that is mounted on to the frame. Once these are taken off, you can maneuver the top of the case off and replace the filter.
F150 removal intake manifold 302 engine to replace valve cover gaskets?
you do not need to remove intake manifold to change valve cover gaskets. intake bolts to the block. valve covers bolt to the heads
EDIT: Theirs some clearance issues but you can maneuver the valve cover out.
3624 Tokyo Roki air filter found on my Satoh Tractor. Probably other 3 cylinder Mitsubishi diesel engines. Crosses to a NAPA #6436. Available locally or for order. $33.69 on 2/7/09.
How do you remove the air filter cover on a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE?
What you are seeing when you open the hood is not the air box. The air box is attached to the air hose that comes off the bottom of the air chamber, do not try to open the air chamber if you brake it you will have to replace it, so after you loosen the hose clamp off the throttle body and take the 2 10mm. bolts off the front of the air chamber and loosen the air tube hose clamps from the bottom of the air chamber you can take it off. Now you can see the Air box. On the upper side of the air box locate a metal 3/8 screw and remove, this will free up the air box and allow you to remove it. To remove, tilt air box to the left and lift out. Once you have removed the air box unlock the two clip this will allow you to open the air box so you can change the air filter.
How do you change the intake manifold gasket on a 1994 Ford F-350 5.8L 351 Windsor engine?
I dont know if you have changed the intake manifold yet on that ford but you need one special socket which is a torx socket about 5 to 5 inchs long to get one bolt which is hidden for the upper part of the intake and you will also need to plastic fuel line removal tools , a green one and a yellow one , just ask at your local parts store I'm sure they will know , other than that a normal socket set should get you on your way to removing that intake.
F 350, 351Windsor V8 manifold gasket:
This isn't necessarily in sequence, but the highlights of this job as we did it are all here.
The problem we discovered, was four of the manifold bolts, two front and two back, were corroded. One was broken, causing the coolant leak. The other broke as I was loosening it. Apparently these bolts rest IN THE COOLING JACKET, which is a rather hostile environment for a bolt. Bad design by Ford. Leaks may be caused by the untimely rusting and breaking of these bolts. They needed to be removed and replaced. To get to them, we�d have to remove the upper and lower manifolds and replace their gaskets.
What we used:
A vehicle manual. Ours is published by Haynes. No manual is perfect. Things are left out, not mentioned, glossed over...sigh.
Upper intake manifold gasket. (No sealant required).
Lower Manifold Gasket: (Ours was manufactured by �Felpro�) It should come with instructions. The manual covers installation too. Ours also came with a new distributor "O" ring.
Two or three pressurized cans of brake cleaning solution.
WD40 or similar penetrating lubricant.
Paper Towels.
Garbage bags to cover & wrap parts.
RTV gasket compound for applying the lower intake manifold gasket.
Drill, bits and screw extractor for 5/16 inch bolt.
Fuel line removal tool: NOT the fuel filter size, but for the injector fuel line rails on the manifold, two larger sizes. (My genius son made one out of a short length of copper pipe slit open and carefully filed smooth, but only because we are so far from town and THOUGHT we had all the right stuff...) And no, the manual never mentioned this.
Hex key for block engine coolant drain. In hindsight, we needed a: Face shield and rubber gloves for the engine coolant draining procedure.
Torque wrench.
A good assortment of sockets, extenders & open end wrenches.
Plastic garbage bags to protect exposed engine. A covered work area (in case the job lasts more than one day).
Oil and filter for an oil change once the job is done. We want to be sure the engine is free of coolant contaminated oil.
Timing light to re-set engine timing (the distributor has to be removed). We marked our distributor/engine position, as well as rotor/housing position. (As called for in the manual) Everything went back together perfectly.
We needed a "Torx" bit to remove one screw from the upper manifold. Of course, we didn't have one. Genius Son used a standard slot screw driver pounded into the Torx bolt head. Crude but effective. Came out and went back in fine.
Masking tape and a good felt pen to number / mark all electrical & fluid connections.
We recommend: 1. Stainless steel 5/16 inch "ready rod" (threaded rod) to replace the broken and corroded manifold bolts. Hack saw or cutting wheel to cut the ready rod. 5/16 inch nuts and washers. We used 1/4 inch bolt sized washers which fit nice.
2. Keep everything clean. Provide lots of well lit, clean places to set parts. Cover with plastic to protect from rain, dust. We used garbage bags. Brake cleaning spray kept manifolds clean. (Amazing amounts of dust and mouse poop on the manifold).
3. We marked the hood brackets with a felt pen, then removed the hood. Pretty well had to for this job. Put the hinge bolts back into the hood and set the hood down somewhere safe. Hood went back together fine, except I kept dropping the bolts into the engine compartment. Probably should have done it in daylight...
4. We took pictures with a digital camera. Turns out we only really needed the photo evidence once. Lesson: mark even the wire plug near the coil which is not plugged into anything...saves a lot of time. Advice for the inexperienced: Get a clip board and pencil and lots of paper. Take notes. Go methodically.
Bits & Pieces: We drained the radiator, as per the manual�s recommended sequence. Then we had to drain the remaining coolant that would interfere with the intake manifold removal. We removed the hex head bolt from the driver's side of the engine block. Man, did it ever spew! Wear a full face shield, gloves, have a bucket handy and keep your lips pursed tight. Have clean water handy for rinsing. When that hex bolt comes out...look out.
We WERE going to remove the passenger side hex bolt, but it required removing the starter. We decided not to go there. The first plug drained enough fluid to drop the level at the manifold sufficiently to proceed with the job. Still, we know we will need to eventually drain and replace our radiator fluid, so we got a Radiator Flush Kit (a "Y" connector, two clamps and a removable hose thread plug). We'll install and use this after the manifold job.
Upper manifold gasket. This needs no sealant. Most people would not even replace it. We chose to simply because of the work it took to do the whole job. It seemed the best thing to do. Remove the upper manifold, poke each bolt into a single piece of cardboard in the same pattern they were in the engine. Makes reassembly a snap. Do the same for the lower manifold.
We weren't able to get stainless steel studs for our manifold job, but we felt darned lucky we were able to get anything... The Ford dealer didn't have replacement bolts, neither did an engine rebuilder. Even a very well known auto parts supplier (who assured us over the phone that he had "any bolt you could ever need") failed to deliver. We ended up settling for "alloy" studs cut by a very unpleasant person at a welding shop.
We had to drill out the broken bolts (both at the front of the manifold). We drenched the broken stud with WD40 and let them sit overnight. We then used the second size from the smallest screw extractor (Required a 15/64ths drill bit). We pounded it in and eased out those bad boys with hardly any trouble.
The manifold is not heavy, but it is awkward. Young people willing to stand in the engine compartment and lift is a very handy way around using a hoist. Set the manifold down gently on clean cardboard. Follow the gasket installation instructions, which call for carefully cleaning all mating surfaces. We used lots of Brake cleaning solvent to keep things as clean as possible.
Two metal brackets which attach to one of the rear studs were almost impossible to remove. They braced two tubes which feed down to the exhaust manifold. We CUT the brackets open at the bolt hole with a hack saw, right next to the bolt. We then pried the brackets open and off the bolt. This is hard work. Remember: keep wrenches and hammers away from the fragile injectors. After the reinstall: Pried the cut bracket loops back around the (new) manifold bolt, screwed down the nut and they are holding just fine. Clean out any rust & corrosion. Thread the new studs in finger tight, with the washer and nut following closely. When you do the final torque, they will tighten just fine.
Final torquing of the lower manifold bolts took three basic passes, following the pattern given in the manual. A few light �touch up� passes were necessary as the gasket squished down.
Close the radiator drain and refill with water. (We will do a complete flush and replenish once the manifold is clear of any leaks.)
A few days now and all is still good. One small leak from a hose clamp. It�s done. We welcome anyone else's experience and opinions on this or similar jobs. Always ready to learn,
Comment:
Read this post and used it to help me remove the intake manifold on my 97 F250 5.8L engine.
My problem was a mouse nest under the upper manifold. "Mickey" made himself a nice nest in the tunnel under the upper intake manifold. (Nice design Ford!) He also chewed open one of the wires to #7 injector.
I was able to trouble shoot the problem and after removing the massive nest, was able to see the chewed wire by removing the distributor cap and usiing many light sources to see into the tunnel.
Following Manifold Monkey narrative I was able to tackle this job and restore my truck to good running order (running on all 8 cylinders).
My thanks to Manifold Monkey for providing a good set of instructions that helped me do a repair that initially I was afraid to tackle.
What is the intake manifold torque pattern for a 1977 Chevy Blazer with a 305?
start with center bolts and work your way out in a circular patternaltenating from side to side
How do you replace the air filter in a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica?
if your 04 is like my 06...stand to the passenger side of the hood near the middle theres a medium black case..should be your air filter...you will need a screwdriver or tool to remove the two screws in front of the case..the front is the side away from you''once you remove the to screws you have to push on the side nearest you to release or unsap the case..raise it up and remove filter
Can you use a 283 intake manifold fit on a 350 Chevy engine?
Yes, as long as it is a pre 87 350. In 87 Chevy changed the cylinder head configuration, and thus takes a different intake. The only isue here is the place you put the oil in. On early 283's, there was a hole in the front of the intake, to put a tube, to put opil in. There were no holes in the valve covers. Newer stuff, they eliminated that hole, and you put oil into the valve covers. Just make sure you have the proper set up. It does not matter where you put the oil, either spot, but, just so you can.
How do you change the cabin air filter on Toyota Tundra 2003?
I own a 2003 4Runner and a 2008 Tundra. Both have the cabin air filter behind the glove box. Open the glove box. release the clip on the right side. Squeeze in the sides of the glove box to let the 2 catches in the rear get past the stops. The glove box will open all the way. Behind the box you will see a compartment door. squeeze the clips open and pull out the filter. Install a new one in reverse order. It's that simple. Filters cost about $25 but is cheaper than paying $55 to have Toyota do it. I should not take you more than 15 minuets to do it.
Why does 3800 engine intake manifold water leak?
In my Chevy 1500 with the 305 Vortec, the problem was the lower intake manifold gasket, which is the one that seals it to the engine block. On your 3800 V6 (in a Silverado? I didn't know that; I thought it was the 4.3, maybe it's an older or newer year than my body style), it could very well be the same. There is also a coolant line coming out of the manifold, if I'm not mistaken. Could be to the thermostat, but I don't have the truck anymore. To the best of my knowledge, that would be the easiest and cheapest thing to check.
Does the Cabin Filter effect the air condition?
Of course it affects the air conditioning,,,it also affects the heater. Any time u have a restricted air flow it affects how heater and air conditioning works, for the worse.
Engineers have designed the heater/ac system to run on clean air, so therefore your heater/ac systems work faster and better with a clean filter. Not to mention your own physical health by breathing clean air.
Often people replace the head gasket before looking into the water pump first, every situation is unique of course, but just a suggestion, before spending lots of time (if you replace it your self) or lots of money (paying a mechanic to do it) check the water pump and or the radiator first as the water pump is know to go bad on pathfinder quite a bit.
Where can one purchase a hunter air purifier filter?
Hunter air purifiers are extremely popular. Filters for them can be found everywhere. Amazon, Lowes, Home Depot, overstock, ebay, Walmart, Target and Sam's Club are some places to find them.
What are the symptoms of manifold exhaust gasket leaks on a Chevy truck?
Intake manifold leaks will cause the engine to idle rough and get poor fuel economy. An exhaust manifold will have no symptoms other than the sound of the leak.
Is there an air filter cross reference ror a Generac 0J8478 air filter?
Replacement air filter for Generac oj8478
What is the torque specs for upper intake manifold on a 2003 Malibu?
on 3.1 v6,it is---intake 10 ft lbs-----upper intake-18 ft lbs,
How can you change the air conditioner filter in a 2002 acura tl type s?
Dust and Pollen Filter Replacement: # Remove the glove box. # Cut the plastic cross brace (A) in the glove box opening with diagonal cutters in the area shown. Remove the cross brace and the two mounting screws (B) from the glove box opening. Retain these parts to be reinstalled later. # Remove the filter lid (A) from the evaporator, then pull out the lower dust and pollen filter (B) and the upper dust and pollen filter (C). # Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace it. # Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that There is no air leaking out of the evaporator. # Install the cross brace (A) into the glove box opening by aligning the tabs (B) with the slots (C). # Secure the cross brace with the two mounting screws (D) removed in step 2. # Reinstall the glove box.
What is torque specs for n 14 Cummings rocker arm bolts?
Ah, the gentle hum of an engine at work. When tightening those N14 Cummins rocker arm bolts, remember to use a torque wrench set to 27 foot-pounds. Just a gentle touch, like painting delicate little clouds in the sky. Make sure to tighten them evenly and in the correct sequence for smooth, harmonious engine performance.
If an automatic transmission check and verify correct idle speed (RPMs). If they are good check for hardened or broken motor and transmission mounts. replace as required. ONLY WHEN IT'S HOT, I DON'T THINK IS A MOTOR MOUNT. A SPARKPLUG MISSFIRE, DIRTY INJECTOR, COIL PACK PROBLEM, SPARKPLUG WIRE NO GOOD. I ALREADY HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM, AND SATURN FIX IT BY CLEANING INJECTOR. AT COLD, HE DON'T DO THAT BECAUSE IT RUN ''RICH'' IN GAS, BUT WHEN HOT, WITH LESS GAS, THE PROBLEM OCCUR. 80$ AND YOU'RE SAFE. LOL
Will stop leak help your minor coolant leak from lower intake gasket 3.1?
Try Bars Stop Leak; its` worked wonders for some, none for others. Worth a shot though.
Does the turbonator work on any car?
Absolutely not. The idea behind it is convincing - placing an item in your intake system that will cause the air to 'vortex' like a tornado, thus increasing the velocity of the air coming in and increasing horsepower and mileage.
However, we all know that placing something in the intake would obstruct air flow. And when air flow is obstructed, it slows down. Not only that, but an ECU from the factory is tuned for the stock air flow coming in. Messing with this doesn't help. In the end, you can conclude that this is a scam. Simply from the fact that they state massive horsepower and fuel economy gains for such a cheap price should make you ponder its legitimacy. Simply put, putting this on your car will only worsen things, not help.
