Alternators

by an amortisseur coil

Yes. It is done all the time in automotive electrical systems. The alternator, which creates AC, has its current rectified using diodes.

You would find it in the front of the engine driven by the accessory belt.

The reason why it won't start is because its your alternator...... My uncles chev truck made the same kinda sound when his alternator went....

three bolts, tensioner bolt on bottom two bolts on top, the two on top are tough, three wires ground, power, and harness, locate all bolts and wires loosen to take off. it comes off easier than it goes back on

The alternator may be putting out some amps, but the regulator inside is failed. The alternator is the first thing to replace when the battery lamp comes on in these vehicles. Also make sure the battery is not leaking acid. Remove the positive and negative cables from the battery and look for corrosion. If corrision is found, you'll need to replace the battery and also take the battery cable covers off to clean the contact pads down to bare metal. Make sure all corrosion is removed. Russtech67

Disconnect the batery cable from the battery while the vehicle is running, if it dies, you need a new alternator there, buddy.

Defective voltage rgulator? Mounted inside the alternator

Remove alternator and have it tested

also plausable you may have a poor ground. check the connection by following the neg (-) on your battery to the front radiator support behind your headlight.

Put a voltmeter on the battery.If it reads 12 volts or less,the alternator is not charging.It should read 13 or 14 volts.Make surte your belt is not loose or broken also.

You may need a new one. It might not be capable of charging as well as it used too.

should be under plastic panel that covers radiator a black 5 x5 inch squre muli function module bolted to top of radiator support, if your looking for voltage regulator is built in alternator

im not sure but in my 2000 Plymouth neon my alternator has been making squeeking noises in the morning when its cold and just recently its been making a clicking noise as the engine is ruvving down or sometime ruvving up, not sure if that has to do with the alternator

A rebuilt alternator is around $90-250 USD according to the year of the unit and whether you have A/C or not. Figure 1 hour to r&r the unit and test at $75 /hr.

You need the test equipment and a bunch of knowhow.

under the battery or close by

It's easy, you just take out the old one and put in a new one, unless the engine is installed in a vehicle! There are a few chioces to get access to the alternator. The method I used last night on my 1985 Honda Accord (carb) was to unbolt and disconnect the old alternator, move it out of the way, remove the alternator bracket, jack up the car with the left front tire floating free, unbolt the strut (the 3 nuts on top), slide the alternator out by turning it over (regulator side out first, top mounting hole down) pushing down against the axle. It is a very tight fit, I used a pry bar to walk the alternator out to the right, along the axle slowly. I think there is just enough give in the motor mounts to not dent the oil pan too much. The new one goes in in reverse order. Don't forget to reconnect the Negative battery cable. The whole job took me 3 hours. Good Luck! PS: This method works easily with a couple of extra hints. 1) Don't forget to disconnect the negative cable in the first place. 2) Secure the strut as far down and back as it can go. I pushed it down with my foot while reaching under the fender to wedge a stick about 10 inches long between the strut and the wheel well. 3) Remove the single bolt securing the motot mount nest to the fender and dismount the electrical connector from the radiator fan bracket to give room for the engine to be levered forward. 4) Lever the engine forward with a long crowbar placed between the driveshaft and the oil pan. With the alternator positioned as above you can wiggle it out by hand and shove the new one in with your foot. This works so well I didn't get too depressed when I realized I had bought the wrong alternator and had to do this all over again. Do compare your new alternator to the old one before you install it. The difference is that carb models have a three-wire connector and fuel-injected models have a four-wire connector.

I hope that i can be of help. I had to replace my alternator. First remove the positive and the negative cables from battery. Take time to look at manner inwhich the belt is woven around the alternator and the pulley, it will have to go back on the same way. Remove the air intake nozzle by removing the 2-10mm bolts on the radiator support. Remove the electrical plug from the back of the alternator. squeeze white clip down with small flat bladed screwdriver and then squeeze the dark gray clip, I found it easier to remove after the belt and bolts were removed. There are two bolts that are holding on the alternator. The top one is a 14mm and the bottom one is a 12mm. The belt tensioner is located between the alternator and the crank pulley. You need to jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the splash pan (4-14mm bolts). Look up and you will see a hex headed bolt on the bottom of the tensioner pulley. Again, 14mm, a little awkward, but a socket and extentsion will clear the lines. Back off generously and you will have enough slack to remove the belt. When replacing, put the top bolt first, then the bottom. Belt back on, double check for alignment, and then go underneath and tighten the bolt to the tensioner until snug, not too tight. The other two belts on this engine all remove and tighten with the same proces. Once you have the correct tension reattach battery cables.

The voltage is written on the fuse.

What type of alternator do you want to install? if you have not got one yet, purchase a 1wire self energizing alternator from any good farm parts store, we sell Dixie part number #A1133-1ws, for about $110.00 65amp

Your electrical elements are going up and you need new ones.. same problem happened to me!

It's kinda of a rough job to do it cuz the alternator is placed at an odd spot. You can get at it from the top but you'd have to take the rad out. If you want , get the car on a hoist and go from under but the a/c compressor would have to be moved.

I had to do this about a year ago, and it was actually very simple. If you go out and buy an alternator, there are basic directions of what to do, and also having a Haynes manual to fill in the gaps will get you there. I know very little about car repair/maintenance and was able to do this mainly by myself (you might want another person to add some muscle for getting some parts off). even easier, make sure you have the appropriate wrenches, disconnect your battery before doing any work, you can shock yourself... disconnect wires from the alternator, use a wrench on the bolt to losen the belt (follow the belt to the passenger side, it's the next one, now go down about 4-5 inches) remove belt off of alternator, now it's just two bolts on the alternator to take out and you're good to put the new one in... just reverse the process for putting the new one in... i did mine last week... this is exactly how it happened... took about 20 minutes maybe

If it has gone bad, you should probably replace it. However, if you want to attempt the repair, it would depend on what is wrong with it. Like an electric motor, a voltage regulator commonly has brushes which wear down over time. Perhaps these brushes have worn to the point that they need to be replaced. If this is the case, I recommend changing them at a small repair shop that does that sort of work. Ask around with local handymen or guys at the autoparts store. Someone does it and it will probably cost $20. I don't know if you can buy the brushes to change yourself. You could also replace the voltage regulator by finding one at a junk yard.