Alternators

I have a 1999 VW Jetta GLS 4 cylinder 2.0liter SOHC New Body Style. My Alternator died, according to the technician at the VW Dealer. The electrical system diagnostics done by the tech indicated that the alternator was producing only 10amps and should be producing something like 14 amps. Backing up a bit; during the morning of the failure, my battery light went on. Later that night, I noticed that all interior lighting (including instrument dash-board lights) went dim. Additionally, the brake, ABS, airbag, etc. lights went off and a beeping noise occured. Long story short, my car started to sputter and eventually died on the highway. When I tried to start the car, the engine would barely turn over and the instrumentation lights flickered rapidly. I called around and found that PEPBoys or Advanced Auto Parts had Bosch alternators that fit my car for like $250. Bosch alternators at VW Dealer Parts Department costs $500 minimum. I'm not sure if it's the same one, but the VW guy on the phone said "Bosch". You do your own reasearch. Labor is 1.5 hours. Total from VW Dealer was around $750.00. I'd like to hear the experience of others as well.

1. Disconnect Battery2. Disconnect Wiring to the Alternator3. Remove Serpentine Belt by using a 1/2" drive ratchet or strong arm...Observe how the belt comes off4. Remove bolts going through the alternator and you should be able to pry or wiggle the old one out5. Use reverse proceedure to replace

sorry, donno. what i do know is that you need to take it in to a car-shop. seriously, not safe driving.

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I just paid $310 ($254 parts & shop supplies, $56 labor) to have alternator replaced on 2000 Olds Bravada.

Probably alternater if the battery is less than 5 years old, may be the battery, may be both, may be neither.

Parasitic (or ignition key off) drain is the cumulative load produced by electrical devices, for example, emissions computers, clocks, security alarms, radio presets, etc., that operate continuously after the engine is stopped and the ignition key has been switched off. Normal parasitic loads are below 75 milliamps (.075 amps). When the parasitic load is greater than 75 milliamps (.075 amps), batteries will drain more quickly. Glove box, trunk, and under hood lights that do not automatically turn off when the door is closed or shorted diodes in alternators are the most common offenders. Cooling fans, power seat belt retractors, radios and dome lights left on, alarm systems, and electric car antennas have also caused batteries to drain overnight. Leaving your headlights on will generally discharge a fully charged car battery, with 90 minutes of Reserve Capacity (36 amp hours), within a couple of hours. It is highly recommended, especially if you are using a sealed wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery, allow to thaw if frozen, fully recharge it in a well ventilated area with an external battery charger, remove the surface charge, and load tested both the battery and the charging system for latent damage from the deep discharge. You could have a damaged or bad battery. If the alternator is warm and the engine is cold, then check for a shorted diode in the alternator. Below are some methods that are used to test the parasitic load with the engine NOT running, under hood light disconnected, all accessories switched off, and the vehicle doors closed: * Connect a 12-volt bulb across the positive and negative battery terminals to test the bulb and the battery. If it glows brightly, then remove the negative battery cable and connect the bulb in series between the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal. If the bulb continues to glow brightly, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the bulb dimming. * A better approach is to use a DC ammeter, for example a Fluke 175, inserted in series with the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal or a clamp-on DC ammeter, like a Fluke 336 or i410 around the negative battery cable. Starting with the highest scale, determine the current load. If the load is above 75 milliamps (.075 amps) after the initial surge, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the parasitic load dropping to within 75 milliamps (.75 amps). ADDED 25-APR-06 BY Guycaron: For whatever it's worth, this problem came up in both my '86 LSC and '91 LSC/SE. The quick solution was a new voltage regulator. Cheap, easy to replace. Worked both times.

Do yourself a favor. When buying a New Alternator have them check it before taking it home? I had a bad incident that I ended up with, 3 bad alternators in one day, 3 different stores. Last store check it before I took it home and everything was good. I ended up changing it 3 times. Make sure they also change the pulley. Alternator Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. 3. Detach the electrical harness connectors at the alternator assembly. 4. Disconnect the positive battery cable and remove the nut and washer. 5. Remove 2 front alternator bolts. 6. Remove the rear alternator support bracket retaining bolts and the support bracket. 7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle. To install: 8. Place the alternator in position and loosely install 2 front alternator retaining bolts. 9. Install the alternator bracket and 3 alternator bracket bolts. Tighten to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm) 10. Tighten 2 front alternator retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). 11. Connect 2 electrical hardness connectors to the alternator assembly. 12. Connect the positive battery cable and install the nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 13. Rotate the drive belt tensioner away from the drive belt and install the drive belt on the alternator pulley. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. 15. Start the engine and check for proper charging system operation.

Yes, as long as they have the same engine

* Disconnect the negative battery cable * Raise the car and support it securely on jackstands.Remove the lower splash shield beneath the alternator and the right-side inner fender splash shield * Remove the drivebelt * Disconnect the electrical connector and the alternator output wire from the alternator * Remove the engine cooling fan and shroud * Remove the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts (without disconnecting the refrigerant lines) and slide the compressor forward * Remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator from the engine

Disconnect bat. Remove wires from back of alt. If serpentine, pull on idler(s) to release belt tension & remove belt. if not, Loosen alt bolt on top & swing to side to remove belt, Remove bolts 6 & 12 o' clock & remove. reverse to install. have fun:)

As you will need to disconnect the battery you will need to reprogram the preset buttons on your radio and set the clock. Other than that there is nothing else to do.

Hungarian scientist, Elmer Wavering invented the first car alternator. His invention hit the mass markets in the early 20th century.

It is located top left of the motor if you are looking at it from the front bumper

There are generally two signs that the alternator is going bad.

First is the noise. A new noise will begin to be heard. Something like a whining when the car is accelerating.

Second is the smell. You may smell burning from the engine department.

Near the headlights assembly on the passenger side of car. Remove battery to get to it. Mounted to fender.

i have a 91 i imagine that it wouldn't be much different first i removed the passenger front wheel and then i removed that part of the air dam and right up inside you can see the alternator. from the top its a tight sqeeze but take the top bolt on the alternator off and take the belt off then go underneath and remove the bottom bolt and then remove the clip on the backside of the alternator. next, remove the tubes and any other things that might get in you're way then just pull it out of the top. installation is reverse of removal just drop it down in there and reconnect all of the tubes in the same order and put it in and make sure you have the belt tight

I'm not familiary with the odyssey, but you'll need a metric wrench (I don't know what size, though, but it'll be metric.. 13mm or 15mm are the likely sizes), and a slotted screwdriver (to separate the ring terminals from the posts).

a lot! its a long process and after doing it once, i will sell the car before i put another one on. there is a lot of stuff that has to be taken off to replace it, and the only way to get to it is from under the car.... like i said, i will not do one again.

It will be mounted behind the battery where the head lights are.

It could be on the fender where the battery is.

Need to lift car. From the bottom remove the compressor it has 4 bolts, then you will be able to see the bolt that goes to alternator, also loosen the pully from the top then and bottom the botom.

Remove negative off the battery then remove air filter is in the way you got to get a 3/8 to the tension to remove the belt the the connection to the alternator the red first then 2 long screws in the bottom then 3 screws on the top they are all 10mm then you got 2 more wires a to remove from the alternator be careful and that's i hops this help.1998 e -2505.4l v8

If the jumper cables were hooked up the wrong way by mistake on a 1997 Grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2L, it might be necessary to check the alternator to make sure it is turning in the right direction. If the battery is still being charged, the vehicle should be fine. A high idle could be a problem with the EFI or Electronic Fuel Injectors.

I've found it best to connect the pos first then the negative last. If you connect the negative first there is a good chance that you might accidently ground out the positive against some part of the car.

Could be you have a bad belt or belt is loose.. Also it might be possible that the bushings are worn out of the alternator