Brake Pads and Rotors

Shoes or Pads??

Most likely pads

Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Loosen caliper holding bolts (2) Remove 1 only to allow caliper to swing away from rotor Remove front pad Use "C" clamp against rear pad to retract piston in caliper Remove "c" clamp and rear pad Install new rear pad Install new front pad swing caliper and secure back in place Remove lug nuts Install wheel

DO NOT MOVE VEHICLE UNTIL BRAKES ARE PUMPED TO RESET PADS AGAINST ROTORS

The self adjusting screw needs to be readjusted for the new shoes OR somebody has adjusted the EMERGENCY Brake cable OR the Cable is Frozen OR the star wheel needs 2 b backed off more OR in ONE job - the lining was 2 THICK (per the person who relined the cheep shoes.

If your not used to working with antilock/traction control vehicles, you may want to leave this job to a professional. There are some things that you need to be aware of before proceeding with the job. But, if you decide to go on with this, You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

on front of a 2k1 v6 4x4 LXT Escape, loosen all 5 lugnuts, jack up vehicle, and place on a jack stand, remove wheel, using a T47 star tool unbolt caliperfrom it's mounting point ater removing the 2 plastic caps, caliper would move out of the way, the front side pad would come out easily, the inside pad is held on by 3 thin metal taps inside the caliper wich that pad is also easly removed.

all is reverse as removal.

Most cars have 4 brake pads in the front two per side of the car

check for loose caliper bolts, brake pad may be moving around in caliper or caliper bracket. missing or broken brake hardware.

The average cost of a regular car tire is 58 dollars

That usually means that the pad is worn down and you're getting metal against metal (bad). You should replace your pads before you have to replace both pads and rotors.

Yes

something was not installed correctly when brakes were being fixed. pull wheel of and check for loose parts

It sounds like it could be a rust build up on the backing plate. best to have it checked out.

I think you should contact your auto shop, they should be able to help. If not just go back to the store that you got the brake pads from and get a new one.

Hope this helped.

-Anwers.com

If the wheel is not out of round & if the size is not smaller than stock, look & see if they used stick on wheel weights to balance. Those are usually placed inside for appearance reasons & may be hitting caliper.. The caliper even if it's bad won't move. You may have snapped the rotor or you could be metal to metal due to worn out pads. See if you have any material left on them, that may also be where the sound is coming from.

The question you ask is pretty involved. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library first to assist you with the project.

Parts needed:

4 x Rotors

1 x front set of brake pads

1 x rear set of break pads

Tools Needed:

Jack, Jack stand, Socket set, breaker bar, and ratchet, Torque wrench (or take car to tire store to get the lugs torqued afterwards), rubber mallet or hammer.

First, you want to remove the wheels. Loosen the lugs and jack it up. Once you have the car jacked up and the wheels removed (which you may need to do one at a time), look behind the caliper (the part which strattle's the rotor), there should be 2 bolts holding the caliper assembly on to the hub. Remove those 2 bolts but do not remove the brake line from the caliper because you will have to bleed the brakes if you do. Just move the caliper out of the way carefully making sure not to damage the brake line or bleeder valve on the caliper (wire works good for this).

Now that everything is out of the way, you can just pull the rotor off. You may have to break it free (from rusting). You can use a rubber mallet or carefully use a hammer if needed. It shouldn't be too stuck.

Now you are ready for new parts. Slide the new rotor on to the studs, and push it into place. You may want to put one of the wheel lugs on to hold the rotor in place while you bolt the caliper back on. Before you go putting everything back together, you are prolly going to want to get new pads too... so just replace the pads before you put the caliper back on... bolt everything back down nice and tight... spin the rotor by the studs with your hand and make sure nothing is scraping. If all looks good, replace your wheels and tires with the 5 bolts, and torque them to spec. It is always a good idea to check the bolts after 1 or 2 days on the wheels to make sure they are still tight.

Hit it with a hammer

if it is a light drag, that is normal, however if it is a hard drag or wheel stays locked the brake hoses are probably flaking in side and act as a check valve not letting pressure release. Had it happen a couple of times.

Mike B.

If I heard any "grinding" whatsoever, I'd check everything to be sure nothing fell off/broke etc. == ==

It's a good idea to lube the door hinges every time you change the oil or lube your chassis. Once the hinge pins are worn to to the point that they make noise, you'll need to replace the hinge pins and bushings.

Because of high chlorine content in the mud (chlorine as a stripping agent for chrome)

You need to bleed the brakes. Loosen the bleeder valve on one of the calipers and have someone press and hold the brake pedal. Tighten the valve and release the brake pedal. (If you let off of the pedal with the valve loose, air will be drawn into the system and make the problem worse.)

check for a worn lower ball joint. use a floor jack under problem and lift from lower a rm grip the tire in the 12 and 6 o clock position and try to see if wheel moves and rocks if it does have some one look to see what part is worn check ball joint then check for loose wheel bearing if all seems tight someone could have slid into a curb and bent lower a arm also check to see if brake rotors were just changed,it could be a different size offset on rotor. sometime the ball joint stud actually oblongs the hole the ball joint go in and causes the spindle assy to wander around. this should be taken seriously and fixed right away,its no fun losing a wheel and hub assembly when your on the highway

It sounds like you still have a little air in the brake lines. You probably need to bleed them again. Or you have the pads installed improperly.

We can not do pictures yet, sorry.

No just put them on. If they were bad they could be sued for a defective product.

Actually Honda/Acura specify that NEW rotors be "refinished" with an on-car brake lathe...