Car Heaters

Well the heater could be because you have low engine coolant or the thermostat is stuck open so the coolant will not get heated up. As for the AC sounds like you are all out of free-on.

it's best to get a new blower and replace it. you have to access it from under the hood about half way across the firewall there will be an access panel that has to be reomved. it takes about 2 hrs. if you are mechanically inclined go for it.

your blend door is vacuum operated, most likely your machanic forgot to hook up the vacuum hose to the blend door, the actuator is designed to operate on 5inch pounds of vacuum so you should not notice any engine performance problems.

Could have a blockage in the heater core. Or simply need a coolant flush or another item. To be safe I suggest you shop around for the best price to get it fixed.

Check the easy things first. Make sure there is enough coolant in system. check for bad thermostat being stuck in fully open position. After truck runs for about 10 to 15 minutes,gauge should move up about one third. If still blowing cold air, check upper radiator hose to see if it's hot, also check that water is flowing through system by squeezing hose and releasing it. You should feel water flowing and a squessing noise when releasing. If hose is hot and water is flowing, the door actuator my be faulty stuck in the AC (cold position. If you had a bad water pump, or loose belt, this would most likely cause your car to over heat. If you had a bad heater core, you would see water on floor on passenger side. This doesn't necessarily rule out heater core, cause It may be partially clogged not getting hot enough.

The heater core can be bypassed without hurting the car. You will need 2 hose clamps and one piece of pipe about 1-1/2 or 2 inches long. The clamps should be able to fit on 1 to 1-1/2 diameter and the pipe should be able to fit inside the heater hoses. Remove the two heater hoses at the firewall and insert one end of the pipe on each hose to make a splice. Before making the splice, slide one hose clamp on the end of each hose for easier installation. Use the clamps to attach the hose ends on the piece of pipe. Don't forget to put some kind of plug in the open heater core holes where the hoses were installed - also don't forget to mark which hose went where so there will be no mixups at reconnection when you are ready.

Low on coolant.

Stuck open thermostat.

Plugged heater core.

Temp blend door inop.

reach up under the dash and unbolt the unit and take it out.

It is your car's cooling system that removes the excess heat from the engine. Then, by a convection process, transfers that heat to your heater core. The heater core in your car is similar to the radiator in the front of your car; in fact it looks like a small radiator. The difference is the heater is mounted inside the car and air is blown through the fins of the core. The heater hoses transfer engine coolant to the heater core, this allows the heat from the engine coolant to be utilized and warm the passenger compartment air. The heat transferred lowers the temperature of the liquid coolant, which is then circulated back to the engine to absorb excess heat again, a continuous system. Whereas the radiator is located at your car's front grill, the unit that transfers heat to the passenger cabin ( heater core) is located inside the dashboard. Heated liquid coolant circulates through tubes in the heater core, and a heater fan blowing across those tubes, as well as through little fins encasing the tubes, directs warmth through the heating vents into your car's passenger cabin.

One of the ways of stopping a car from spinning out is shifting the automatic transmission into a neutral one. The other way is by slowly lifting the foot from the accelerator.

The heater is like a small radiator(heater core) usually located in the dash. The fan blows air through it and heats the car. There are two heater hoses that carry coolant to & from the heater core.

Test the coolant freeze point to be sure the coolant is not freezing up when it is cold outside.

I have the exact same problem with my 1997 Ranger. All hot air, even when the AC is on full. I took it in to the shop for the professionals to have a look, and they determined that the problem was inside the heater box. Apparently, there's a gate that regulates how much heat gets routed into the cab. The hot/cold knob on the dash is supposed to adjust the ratio of hot to cold air. The problem with mine, they said, is that the arm connecting the actuator to the door is broken, (and just my luck, it's stuck in a position that gives me a cab full of hot air.) They told me they'd have to replace the whole heater box, which would be $800-1000 with labor. I told them I'd drive with my windows cracked open and my AC off. Now I just have to figure out how to get the heater box out and where I can get a replacement. It's probably vacuum actuated. Look for the little rubber vacuum line that goes to that door and see if you can find a leak or a disconnected hose. There may be a broken plastic "T" in there somewhere.

Probably 2 separate problems. The airbag light is on because the computer noted a problem with the airbag system while doing a self test and has shut it down (no airbags will go off). The heating problem is probably a thermostat or other cooling system problem. If you get heat while sitting with motor running & at operation temp. and it cools off while driving you probably have a thermostat stuck open.

to the person that wrote this, if you look at it at any point, YES this is a common problem, have you done anything to the fuse panel? (just be honest because this doesn't happen unless you do) I tried running a power wire from one of the fuses to a extra cig lighter and blew a wire or two! no i have ABS, Check Engine, Brake, and the Air bag light on and my truck only blows hot air!

Take a test light and find out exactly what fuses are being effected and take the fuse panel apart and see if the wire fried a little or alot. if only a little a simple new replacement will work otherwise take it to a dealership and see if someone will fix it.... if they don't your looking at a new wiring harness! (sorry) we are in the same boat!

Could use more info about the vehicle but a good place to start would be to replace the thermostat.

Have you checked the water level in the coolant expansion tank, if low this will not heat up the car. If level ok maybe thermostat is stuck Have you checked the water level in the coolant expansion tank, if low this will not heat up the car. If level ok maybe thermostat is stuck

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Low coolant, plugged heater core, failed water pump, broken temp door components inside the dash, etc.

Check fuse if ok Check to see if getting power to fan motor - if ok motor needs replacing - if not may be switch or relay

You could try checking or changing your thermostat and or check to see that there is in fact hot water from your radiator running into your engine and then through your car via 2 rad hoses located on your firewall in the engine compartment, 1 hose going to the heating system and the other hose returning from the heating system. The blower motor or heating systems in most cars have their own little radiator located most of the time just behind the blower motor inside your car. It receives hot water from the engine in order to blow out the hot air that we receive inside the car. If you don't have any hot air then check those things. Be sure to have enough water in your cooling system and that the thermostat is opening when the engine is warm for the hot water to begin circulating through your engine and through your heating system. NEVER OPEN THE RADIATER CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The hot water and pressure will spay out causing burns to your face and skin!

you need a new blower motor resistor. it is located under the passager dash and can can be replaced fairly easily for under $25 and an hour of time. It's a simple answer. When the blower motor resistor and or motor is on the way out the default is for the motor to blow on high. This was done so you would have defrost and heat and also know that somthing is up. Replace the boobs ASAP and also the resistor/temp nuts if you have one. + Answer 9/17/06 + The plastic knob may be cracked inside due to aging from UV exposure, so it is not actually turning the temperature adjustment shaft, just free-spinning. I bought new knobs for mine, at $23 apiece at the dealer, but later found that Hi-Lo/O'reilly (Texas area auto parts store) had similar knob in a GM grab bag of knobs for $7 bucks. You might check all 3 of your knobs for cracks. All 3 of mine were bad when I bought my car this year.

in some cars there is a circuit breaker for the blower motor, usually located near the fuse panel try finding it and press the red button.

There is a 1 way vacuum check valve in the eng compartment it is either disconnected or the valve is bad. comes of of the brake booster,thin vacuum line that goes into the vehical

I noticed this answer on another question. It basically states that the resistor gets too hot and therefor the fan doesn't work at any speed other than high due to the resistor not being cooled properly. IE. the cabin air filter or "pollen filter" as this person in the below comment calls it, is clogged...instructions on how to change it in the manual.

"There is a resister block that includes a thermal fuse in the vent under glove compartment on passenger side. You have to remove the foam lining to get to vent. The usual cause for this failure is a clogged pollen filter (located under cowling in front of windshield) which reduces air flow to cool resistor. The resistor is used to bleed off excess heat when fan is on speeds other than high. It has a fuse that blows if it gets too hot to keep the resister from melting and possibly catching fire. The fuse blows causing the lower speeds to fail to work. You should have high speed only if this is the cause.

There was a recall on the dash fan speed selector. Problem with that is the high speed fan setting fails and Ford considered it a safety hazard for defrosting windows properly.

Double check your chassis fuse under the steering wheel. When my resister fuse failed it blew the fuse on the fuse block too. I replaced the fuse and had high speed only, replaced the resister block and all speeds back to normal. Ford MSRP for the fuse block is about $15. Hope this helps!

It has a bad "Blower Motor Resistor" The fan switch itself is fine.