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Car Shaking Problems

Car shaking problems are usually the results of mechanical problems. Out of adjustment tires or suspension will make the car shake after reaching a certain speed. Warped brake rotors will also make the car shake when it’s slowing down.

2,252 Questions

Why do my brakes vibrate so bad when I stop on my 1997 Volvo 850?

Vibrating brakes are almost always a symptom of worn rotors. When the rotor wears down, or has grooves, the brake pad can no longer make a flush connection with the rotor. This will cause the caliper (which holds the brake pad) to move in and out as it tries to establish a flush connection with the rotor. The rapid movement of the caliper is what causes your brake pedal to vibrate.

Why would new tires shake at high speeds even after balancing when they didn't shake before?

Usually when new tires are installed, they will be put 35 psi of air pressure in them. Look at the label inside the drivers door to see what tire pressure your manufacture recommends for you vehicles suspension setup, and then check your tire pressure. If lower tire pressure will dampen the shake, then it is an undesirable product of the vehicles design.

Then again, I have had carelessly installed balancing weights fly off a tire before. If this happens to a front tire, it will be much more noticeable, especially if it was a large weight that was used to balance the tire. More information would help, vehicle make and model, number of doors.

If tires shake after a new install, there are quite a few possibilites. These are the most common. The car needs to be taken back to the place of the install and all tires spin checked on the tire balancer for a good smooth roll and perfect balance. If by chance you bought the lower price tires they sold you may have out of round tires. This makes the tires hop no matter how well balanced, and they will shake until they are turned on the wheel to cancel the "bad roll". This doesn't mean you have bad or defective tires. You have to understand that all wheels and tires have a high spot on a 360 degree circle. Nothing is perfectly round. On problematic tires this can be fixed. If the appropriate measures when taken to cure the problem, and it didn't fix it....That tire must be replaced. Full warranty of course. This happens with Michelin and some other top brands...not just your cheaper lines. If you have custom wheels, these require two plane balancing with sticky weights. You might need a more qualified shop to cure this, as it gets tricky. With fancy wheels, find a good tire shop and stick with them if you have good experiences with them. Rotate every 6,000 miles religiously! Some people do more often and some less, but with 6,000 you can't go wrong and will have decent life and tire wear. Combine this service with oil changes to save time and money. Change your oil every 3,000mi and rotate your tires every other oil change. You can't go wrong with those basic rules. Good Luck!

Why does the check engine light flash when accelerating and the car sputters and jerks?

AnswerA flashing check engine light means that something serious is wrong with the vehicle and you should not be driving it. Being that the vehicle sputters and jerks under acceleration, I would assume that you have a failure in your ignition system. Always have the car scanned when your check engine light comes on to obtain diagnosetic computer codes. Most common failure is basic maintenance items, Spark plugs and wires. Simple enough to replace, and relativly cheap. Ignition coils, ignition module, and crankshaft sensor would also cause a severe misfire. again... both pretty simple to change, but these items cost more. Start by having the vehicle checked with a scan tool first.

I had the same problem. It was the timing belt. If your Miata has around 100000 miles on it and the belt has never been changed it's most likely it. Timing belts are expensive to replace. You can change it yourself and save a ton of cash but be prepared to spend a few days working on it. Check out the Miata fan sites for step by step instructions!

What can be wrong when your wheels just got balanced and aligned and the car still seems to shake?

Many factors can contribute to shaking in the front end of a vehicle; and, although an alignment coupled with balancing the tires diminishes the possibility that the components involved in these procedures may cause this problem, they are not altogether eliminated from suspicion. Let's take the tire/wheel combination. The tire/wheel combination can be balanced with something inside. If the valve stems were replaced, and the old stem was removed with the tire mounted to the wheel(but 'broken-down'), the possibility exists that a portion of this old valve stem fell into the tire when the stem was pulled out of its hole; and, the small portion inside will roll around until it reaches the same speed as the rotating tire. This is how the tire is then balanced. When the wheel is subsequently installed onto the car, with the balancing weights affixed to the rim, the small rubber stem-bottom is rolling around inside the tire. Now, when the tire rolls down the road, not only is it improperly balanced, but that little rubber gremlin adds to the problem by again moving all around until it begins to spin at the same speed as the tire--- at which time it is nowhere near any point which would balance the tire. The only cure for this is to break the tire back down, remove the rubber remnant of the valve stem, remove the balancing weights, air the tire back up, and re-balance the tire/wheel combination once more. Other possible causes have missed notice on many occasions: A separating tire, a bent wheel, an out-of-round tire, a badly seated tire, and a tire/wheel combination into which tire sealant(Fix-a-Flat?) has been introduced. Tire sealant is particularly notorious for leaving a pool of liquid inside the tire, causing much the same problem as the valve-stem scenario, but without the telltale noise of something rolling around inside when checked. This stuff has to be sopped-out of the tire with a towel. Only then can the tire be properly balanced with the rim. If the tires, wheels, and tire/wheel combinations are in good shape, an alignment can be performed--- if the suspension and steering are tight. This brings up a point: An alignment is an adjustment procedure. The purpose of an alignment is to restore the steering and suspension geometry to the specifications found by the engineers of that vehicle which provide the optimum compromise between handling, stability, control, and wear factors. This is achieved at a specific loading of the vehicle, at a specified ride-height, with a certain amount of gasoline in the tank. An alignment may also be performed on a vehicle which has suffered some types of damage which necessitate attention be given to the rear axle areas as well as the front. This introduces the four-wheel alignment and the thrust-alignment. While settings exist for effecting corrective measures where geometry can be adjusted back into line, no bent part is usable if found: It must be replaced. Much inspection, therefore, is given to parts when an alignment is performed; but, some things are not always clearly evident. When weak struts which cause a vehicle to bounce are found, the finding is usually presented to the customer, who makes the decision for or against replacement. These WILL cause tire wear; and, the cupping of the tires can cause the front end to shimmy. When tie-rod ends are inspected, they may not be loose; but, on rack-and-pinion steering, the inner tie-rod-ends often go undiagnosed as a culprit until a customer complains. At this point, a good technician can find the wear and know the customer will not feel harassed by the news. Lower ball-joints usually require a procedure to be used whereby the joint is 'unloaded' in order for wear to be determined; and, this takes time--- time many customers do not have. If there's nothing outwardly evident of joint failure, the joint is given a visual once-over and a cursory tug at the edge of the wheel. If no exotic movement is felt, all is okay--- until the customer complains. At this point, the customer has the time for the inspection; and, they are ready to make repairs. As far as control-arm bushings, much the same can be said. Ditto for sway-bar bushings. As far as connecting links for the sway-bar ends, these are visual; and, when a customer can be shown the wear, replacement is forthright. Literally, anything which is loose or worn to a certain degree that otherwise should be 'tight' in the suspension or steering can cause a shimmy. This may be observable by routine inspection or special inspection and testing. Some problems may be remedied through low-end replacements, while some may be costly. If CV-joints are coming apart, allowing the shafts to rotate in an orbit rather than concentrically, money is involved. If front wheel bearing assemblies are needed, money is involved. If a lower steering sector has a worn sector-shaft bushing, money is involved to replace the unit. If a couple of shocks are needed, the money expended is less. If the shimmy you feel is only at the times when you apply your brake, this should be conveyed to the detective(mechanic) charged with finding the problem; because, while YOU know this as a 'shimmy' in the front-end, HE knows this as 'pulsation' from warped BRAKE rotors being transmitted to the steering. In this case, a little extra in the way of communication can save a lot of time and inconvenience; and, your car will receive the proper attention sooner.

Do you have to replace timing chain on Lincoln LS?

If the timing chain on your Lincoln LS is worn out then it should be replaced. A worn out timing chain can jump a link, or more, and the engine will ultimately not be able to run. Normally the timing chain will last the life of the engine.

97 Z28 43000 Hard miles Whats the steady vibration when cars in gear at a stop Number 7 was dead replaced wires and plugs misfire is gone idles good?

hey i have a 1999 Mazda b4000 that I drive hard. Every few weeks I have to replace #4 spark plug because it gets burnt up. I was told on GM models this is typicaly related to the egr valve being stuck open. I have not tried this yet because I can't find it. my other five plugs looked good.

Why your new car vibrates at 65 mph even after the wheels were balanced?

Take it to a good tire shop and have the tires rebalanced and check the tires AND wheels for OUT OF ROUND at the same time. If you're hell bound on getting it done in one visit for sure, find a tire dealer with qualified technician with a Hunter Road Force Balancer. That machine was designed to cure all your problems, be it a wheel or tire out of round or simply out of balance. If you have a bad tire or wheel it will find it. Tell them you want a print out off that machine if they do find bad assemblies. It's the pitts to have a new car that has issues and the stealership just won't listen. I have never seen a stealership strong on tires either. That road force balancer can fix match mount problems as well when a tire just needs spun on a wheel to cancel a bad roll. Every tire and wheel has a high spot on a 360 circle. No wheel or tire is perfectly round. There are lots of bad new tires out there as well. This comes from 15 years in the tire business. Plus your factory tires as you know aren't the best anyway, even though they're new. Look at your UTQG specs on the sidewall (treadwear temp and traction,) you will see for yourself. Don't ever put the same tire on a vehicle because that's what it came with. Little do you know they just bid cheapest that year for that particular contract.....Also if your stuck on Michelin, BFG etc..........don't buy tires from Sears, Sams Club or Walmart thinking you got a smoking deal! They are called CLUB HOUSE tires and they are not first run tires like you buy from a true Michelin dealer. You can't even buy those same tires from a true Michelin dealer. They should tell you the same. Don't fool yourself.

Pedal vibration with advance trac with rsc on 2006 ford explorer?

When the system is active this is normal due to the braking system being applied to a spinning wheel or a wheel that in under or over steering.

What is the use of a oxygen sensor?

What exactly does an oxygen sensor do? The answer is in the name; An oxygen sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust system left after combustion in the engine's cylinders. Based on the amount of Oxygen present, the sensor generates a voltage which is read by the engine's fuel management system. Too much residual O2 in the exhaust, and the car's computer releases more fuel for the next combustion cycle; too little O2, and the opposite happens. This balancing act happens many times every second to maintain the optimal fuel to air ratio of 14.7 : 1. This ratio has been found to produce the most efficient combustion, and therefore, the most power, and best fuel economy.The oxygen sensor helps maintain your vehicles harmful emissions. It does not restrict the exhaust flow in any way. Oxygen sensors are typically mounted in front of your catalytic converter/converters and muffler/mufflers so that the oxygen sensor can read the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. From there, a signal is sent to the computer that makes the proper air/fuel mix, or at least makes adjustments to correct the air/fuel mix. If not taken care of in proper time, your oxygen sensor can cause other other problems like premature failure of your catalytic converter, increasing the total you will spend with the next repair. With the prices of gas as high as they are, keeping your oxygen sensor up to date, or replacing it when it's time, will save you hundreds of dollars each year just in fuel costs. The typical time to replace an oxygen sensor for vehicles made from the late mid 1970s to about 1990 is about every 30,000 to 45,000 miles. For the newer makes and models, get your oxygen sensor checked about every 80,000 to 100,000 miles. If your check engine light comes on, have your mechanic check the oxygen sensors when you take your car in.

What is the section width in regards to tires?

The section width of a tire refers to the measurement of the tire's width from sidewall to sidewall when properly inflated and not mounted on a rim. It is typically expressed in millimeters and is the first number in a tire's size designation (e.g., 205 in 205/55R16). This measurement is crucial for ensuring proper fitment on a vehicle and can affect handling, stability, and overall performance.

How much out of round is ok for a tire?

A tire is generally considered acceptable if its out-of-round condition is within 0.125 inches (1/8 inch) for passenger vehicles and up to 0.25 inches for larger tires, such as those on trucks. However, even slight out-of-roundness can lead to vibrations and uneven wear, so it's best to address any noticeable issues promptly. Regular tire inspections can help identify this problem before it affects performance. Always consult the tire manufacturer's specifications for the most accurate guidelines.

How to replace the rear spark plugs in 2003 taurus?

To replace the rear spark plugs in a 2003 Ford Taurus, first, ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove any necessary components to access the rear spark plugs, such as the intake manifold or engine cover, if applicable. Use a spark plug socket and ratchet to carefully unscrew the old spark plugs, then insert the new plugs, tightening them to the manufacturer's specifications. Finally, reconnect any components you removed and the battery terminal.

What is the firing order on a Lincoln Mark LT 5.4 engine?

The firing order for a Lincoln Mark LT with a 5.4L V8 engine is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. This firing order is typical for Ford's modular V8 engines and ensures smooth operation and balanced power delivery. It is essential for maintaining engine performance and efficiency during operation.

Why do you hear a grinding and popping sound coming from the front left wheel when you drive?

A grinding and popping sound from the front left wheel could indicate several issues, such as worn brake pads, a damaged wheel bearing, or a problem with the suspension components. If the brake pads are worn down, they may grind against the rotor, while a failing wheel bearing can create a popping noise as it loses stability. Additionally, loose or damaged suspension parts, like struts or control arms, can cause similar sounds when driving. It's essential to have the vehicle inspected by a mechanic to diagnose and address the issue promptly.