Car Stalling Problems

If your 1996 Infiniti G20 stalls after warming up, it could be caused by a few issues. Common culprits include a failing idle air control valve, a clogged fuel filter, or a malfunctioning mass airflow sensor. Additionally, check for vacuum leaks or problems with the ignition system, such as worn spark plugs or ignition coils. A diagnostic scan can help pinpoint the exact issue.

In a 1995 Mazda Protegé, the fuel filter is typically located along the fuel line, under the vehicle, near the fuel tank. It is usually mounted on the chassis near the rear axle. To access it, you may need to lift the car for better visibility and reach. Always ensure to relieve the fuel pressure before attempting to replace the filter.

Low coolant levels can lead to engine overheating, which may cause a car to stall. When the engine overheats, it can trigger safety mechanisms that shut down the engine to prevent damage. However, low coolant alone typically doesn't cause stalling directly; it's the resulting overheating that poses the risk. It's important to maintain proper coolant levels to ensure optimal engine performance and prevent potential stalling issues.

If your Lebaron shuts off when you put it in gear, it could be related to a few issues. Common causes include a faulty transmission, a problem with the torque converter, or issues with the idle air control valve affecting engine performance under load. Additionally, check for any transmission fluid leaks or electrical problems that might be impacting the vehicle's operation. It's advisable to have a mechanic diagnose the issue for a proper fix.

The firing order for a 1991 Chevrolet Custom Cruiser station wagon, equipped with a V8 engine, is typically 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. On the distributor cap, the number 1 cylinder is generally located at the front of the engine, with the other cylinders arranged clockwise in the specified order. It's essential to ensure proper ignition timing and routing of the spark plug wires to maintain engine performance. Always refer to the vehicle's service manual for specific details and diagrams related to your model.

A 1995 Buick Regal may stall while driving due to several potential issues, including a failing fuel pump, a clogged fuel filter, or a malfunctioning ignition system. Electrical problems, such as a faulty ignition coil or bad spark plugs, can also contribute to stalling. Additionally, issues with the mass air flow sensor or vacuum leaks may disrupt the air-fuel mixture, leading to engine stalls. It's advisable to have the vehicle diagnosed by a professional mechanic to identify and address the specific cause.

Oh, dude, checking fuel pump pressure is like checking if your phone is charged - you need a tool for that. You'll need a fuel pressure gauge to hook up to the fuel system and see if it's pumping enough juice to keep your ride going. It's like giving your car a little blood pressure check, but instead of a doctor, you're the mechanic.

Could be a sign of your fuel pump about to go out. I would start by getting the injectors professionally cleaned (I don't mean that cheap bottled crap they sell at the parts store). If the problem persists, have your fuel pump pressure checked.

My 96 Eclipse has the exact same problem and it needs a new computer module. I did everything else possible for it and that's the only thing left. They're kind-of hard to find because apparently they tend to die a lot on this kind of car. Go ahead and try cleaning the fuel injectors, but it did nothing for me.

I'm dealing with the same problem with intermittent car dying and checked the wiring for shorts, checked all connections, battery and alt working properly. I think I have 3 problems actually. I believe the vapor/liquid separator is bad allowing fuel into the vapor line if I fill tank past halfway. My radiator has a leak and I'm suspicious it may be clogged and not cooling properly but sometime the car cuts off before the engine warms up or within a mile which I think is either the computer is shorting out or maybe an air sensor. Possibly coil When it dies it takes a few minutes before it will start up. When I turn key to on and the dash lights come on, if the check engine light doesn't momentarily come on I know it wont start. I see it I know it will. I checked for 12v on the coil pack power wire and when it shuts down and not immediately start there's no volts. I wait a few and then suddenly 12v again and will start. So the ASD relay might be going out or something is telling it to cut power. I'm at a loss really. I did clean out the throttle body and installed a new CAS and worked fine until I got more gas earlier and then stalls on way home after stopping kinda fast (separator valve) but even after I got it home it will idle for a number of minutes and simply die each time if at normal temp gauge reading or cooled off. So maybe not radiator. I keep topped off constantly. It's like something is just turning the power off. Going now to clean the IAC, MAF, TPS and throttle body and plate. Good luck to you and hopefully that gives you some ideas.

the following discussion is useful for answering this question:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/laundry/msg0700323110578.html

You can easily and cheaply get rid of the smell by using a product called smelly washer, go to smellywasher.com

Many vehicles have a de-icer for the air intake. When the temperaure is near freezing and there is a lot of rain or snow in the air, ice will form inside the air intake. Once ice forms, the engine will not run properly. An engine will also run poorly if moisture builds up on a damaged plug wire, distributor cap or other high-voltage areas.

If your 1989 Mercury Topaz starts but won't stay running, you should check the fuel system, including the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors. Additionally, check the ignition system for issues with the spark plugs, ignition coil, or ignition module. Finally, inspect the air intake system for any blockages or leaks that could be affecting the engine's ability to run smoothly.

The symptoms you described could indicate misfiring in the engine cylinders. This could be caused by issues such as faulty spark plugs, a failing ignition coil, or a vacuum leak. It is recommended to have the vehicle diagnosed by a mechanic to determine the exact cause of the problem and address it accordingly. Driving with a flashing check engine light can potentially cause damage to the catalytic converter.

Ignition wires and the distributor cap need to be checked for cracks that allow cross flow of electricity from one wire to another. At night spray water on the wires and cap to see the sparks while engine is running. Replace wire set and cap as needed..

Some further information would have been helpful (such as the conditions under which the condition occurred.) Assuming that the engine has for one reason or another ingested a liquid (water, oil, etc.) and siezed up because it can't compress a liquid, just remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over slowly several times manually. The liquid will be expelled. Reinstall plugs (new ones if the fluid fouled the originals) and the engine should turn freely. If the liquid came from within the engine, the source should obviously be repaired.

A 1991 Dodge Stealth stalling out and then restarting after a few minutes could be due to several issues, such as a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or overheating engine. When the engine experiences a lack of fuel or excessive heat, it may stall, but once it cools down or the fuel system resets, it can start again. Additionally, issues with ignition components like spark plugs or the ignition coil could also lead to this intermittent stalling behavior. It's advisable to have the vehicle diagnosed by a mechanic to pinpoint the exact cause.

You don't. Voltages are a nominal rating. 110 volts is within the nominal range at this potential. The voltage centre line is 115 volts. Utility companies are mandated to keep voltages locked within 5% of a centre line voltage. This means that it could be as high as 115 + 5% = 120.75 volts and as low as 115 - 5% = 109.25 volts

try a computer link device , it will read any problems with engine.youcan get them at most auto part stores

Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide. Go to newcelica.org and at the top of the screen you'll see a tab called (tech info) click on it. when at the next page scroll down and you'll see an area called maintanace, in there you will see a complete walkthrough on testing and inspecting your spark plugs. I know this is correct i just recently put some OBX racing plugs in mine and used this very guide.

You don't - according to the service manual. If you must it is located INSIDE the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assembly. The fuel tank must be drained and removed to complete the procedure.

i had this problem on a older ford it was the module in the bottom of the distributor and the same problem in a newer car and it was the module under the coil packs The last answer is correct. Although it could also be the coil pack. If the resistance is off a little bit, it will get worse as the vehicle heats up. It will then kick the auto shut down relay and your done till it resets. Check the module and the coil pack. Depending on the kind of vehicle you have it could be either or both if it's a GM car from the 1980s or 1990s the fuel filter can get clogged to the point where the engine will stall after it's warmed up even tho the fuel pump etc etc are all okay. it does this because the filter is is mounted low and it's filling up due to gravity when the car is off. this often happens on Firebirds/Camaros and can be quite a problem. try changing the fuel filter. ps The diagnostic computer will often fail to see the problem

my 87 just had this problem...it was the mass air flow sensor. if its not that try the computer my 86 had the same problem, it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor

I think so.. I put in way too much today. I know right, I'm stupid.
I started it and it ran for like 10 seconds in idle before it stalled. I tried to start it again but no luck. It does turn over though.. so that's something.
I want to know if I wrecked my car.
:cry:

happened with my dads auto transmission.. it was shot and it wouldn't shift out of the 1st automatic gear, hence, not being able to accelerate over 20/ It could also be a tranmission tourque converter failing. Also could be a broken gear inside the tranny, which will not engage no matter what. I have one cause in mind, because it's often so obscure and difficult to diagnose, yet easy to fix. It's afflicted several cars I own. There are numerous possible causes, of course, like a coil that isn't feeding enough energy to the spark plugs, a choke that's stuck, a fuel pump that's not pumping, an electrical malfunction. But the one that comes to mind is a bad "sock' in the fuel tank. This "sock" is a toothpaste-tube-like fine screen in the fuel tank that is supposed to prevent small particles of junk from entering the fuel lines and the fuel pump. Over time, the pores of this thing can become absolutely restricted--I don't know whether it's a reaction to the gasoline, or whether it's a natural result of the material aging, or what. Result: Hardly enough fuel gets to the engine for it to run. And, of course, the faster you go, the more fuel you need, and the more noticable the restriction is. I've had this happen to two of my Fords, one of my Chevies, and a Buick that a friend had--though, at the time he had his problem, I didn't realize what it was, so we went through the usual routine of replacing fuel filters and fuel pumps. I'd say it happened to my Lincoln, too, but the sock in that car actually disintegrated and wound up being jammed to the carburetor's filter by the fuel pump. Yet in the case of the Lincoln, I couldn't get past 20 mph until the problem was solved by removing the tank, flushing it, reinstalling it, and installing an in-line filter between the tank and the fuel pump. In your case, if a sock is really the problem, I'd remove the fuel sending unit in the tank, chop the sock off, and install an in-line filter. Take this course if you've determined that the car is starving for fuel and you're sure the fuel pump isn't bad. One other possible symptom of this sock problem is observed when the car runs decently in cooler weather and starves for fuel in warmer weather. Another thing is, if you tried replacing your distributor cap and spark plugs. If you did not put them back on properly, the firing order is messed up and you'll have a hard time accelerating. Another cause could be a clogged, or partially clogged, catalytic convertor. Also, a collapsed interior wall of an exhaust pipe, in which case one might hear a whooshing sound as air tries to pass by the restriction.

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Is the check engine light on? A bad speed sensor or possibly another sensor could keep the vehicle from up shifting or limiting speed to bring it home in "limp in mode" Possible bad catalytic converter.

Any number of things. Take the car and have it checked by a Tune-up shop.