Car Stalling Problems

Depends on if your vehicle is carbureted or has EFI. If it's a carbureted engine, then the carburetor's choke valve may need tuning. If it's EFI, then the voltage regulator could have shorted and that would cause a certain spark plug to short out so when that spark plug would attempt to fire, the ignition order would blow out of sequence and cause a stall in the car. If your car is EFI, then remove your suppression cables and check the spark plugs. If you have a bad spark plug, replace the spark plug and if the problem persists or if the same spark plug goes bad shortly after, then have a mechanic look at your voltage regulator, ignition coil, starter solenoid, starter relay, and ignition module.

on a vacuum type booster there is usually a vacuum leak. either on the rubber line that runs from the booster to the engine, or a hole in the diaphragm inside the booster. the rubber line is easy and inexpensive to replace so i would check it first. if you have a hole in the diaphragm the only way to fix it is to replace the booster.

check for a crack in the distributor cap

replace the distrubator cap and rotor could have a crack in it

If You Have A Car With A Fuel Injection System On It And The Fuel Pump Is Electric, Located In The Tank. Turn The Key On And OFF. Five Or Six Times, But Don`t Try To Start Car When Doing This. In Doing This It Will Allow The Fuel Pump To Run And Fill Fuel Line. Next There Should Be A Pressure Test Port Located In The Fuel Rail On top Of The Engine. Looks Like A Tire Valve. After Doing The Thing With The Fuel Pump, By Way Of The Ignition. Use A Small Screwdriver & Push In On Valve In The Test Port Fuel & Air Will Come Out. If You Do Not Get Fuel Like A Good Spray From Test Port. 1. You May Be Out Of Gas 2. Your Fuel Pump May Be Bad 3. Your Fuse May Be Bad, Or Bad Relay. Have A GOOD MECHANIC LOOK AT THIS FOR YOU. GOOD LUCK

More than likely the loss of fuel or air. What year is the vehicle.

It could be the Crank Position Sensor on the front of the motor. easy change, 2 bolts and a electrical connector.

this truck is a2000

Above answer is good, however I run a wrecker company and most of the time when one of the 7.3's stopped, they were low on oil. Simple, but check the oil first. Fuel pump can also cause it, plus the above.

try a new coilpack assembly ,,it worked for me I had a similar problem on my 87 Century 3.8l. My Cam Position Sensor was overheating which changed the voltage and kept the car from running. I diagnosed it by pouring some cold water on the sensor when the vehicle wouldn't start and when it did I knew it was that sensor. It could also have been the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I would have chilled it next to determine this. I would also test that the the Fuel Pressure is accurate. My fuel pump worked intermittently causing the car to be hard starting when hot. ( I replaced the fuel pump and then found out about the sensors.) Good Luck!

Not all 2000 saturns have been recalled or so Im told I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that ignition just stopped suddenlly one day turned over and nothing (good thing I have remote start)but when trying to get it fixed with recall they said there were very few affected by recall;;;let me know if you come up with ANY solutions,,thanks

Dont replace it!!! Take it to Saturn - ITS FREE - WAS RECALLED, goto the dealer and I am almost sure they will do it free of charge.

Yes, summer weight oil can get too thick in the cold and prevent the engine from turning over fast enough to start. This is a big problem in many diesel cars and trucks.

The question simply doesn't have enough information; but after all it is being asked in AUGUST so I seriously doubt thick oil is your actual problem. If the engine turns over too slowly to start, check out the starting circuit - battery, cables, starter solenoid, starter - and you'll probably find the problem (if slow cranking is the issue). Alternately, it depends on how the problem began (slow cranking). Could be a bearing almost seized up or some component in the serpentine belt drive that is already seized up (release tension on the belt to determine if that is the problem by releasing the idler (tensioner) pulley and dropping the belt loose before cranking. GOOD LUCK.

If your car hesitates when the brakes are applied, and or when you are driving it acts like it is giving itself gas, or accelarating on its own, The problem is your Throttle Position Sensor(TPS). It costs about $34.00 at autozone, and only takes about 10minutes to replace. sounds like you need a tune up. could possible be fuel filter or fuel pump. sounds like you need to replace fuel filter, air cleaner, and maybe a tune up

i had the same problem with my car i had to change the fuel pump

have had to do this many times first i would check the fuel pressure regulator it is located in the fuel rail

remove the small hose, vacume line see if fuel comes out of it if so it needs to be replaced

on intrepid at the back of the motor hard to get that's where i would start if no fuel leaking out of the hose or the regulator then i would do a fuel pressure test cold and hot to see if there is a leak down problem for some reason the fuel is leaking into the intake making it hard to start hot good luck also could be fuel injectors fuel pressure should tell if you know how to do a leak down test

What kind of car & year. Could be the idle air bypass valve. It is located on the throttle body. If you remove the hose and look in the throttle body, you can see a hole in there. Try to clean it with air intake cleaner first. Clean the throttle body with it about 25% of the can, then use the rest of the can into that hole! Do this with the vehicle is running. You may have to play with the throttle to do this. Try to keep the idle as low as possible. When done, stop the vehicle for 10 mins. then rev it up a lot and get all the black out.

There are two under the car, one is right inder the front passanger and another one that is right under the back seat.on the right side.

Looking into the bonnet it is inside the black plastic box on the right

my 93 grand am was doing something similar to the question you ask. It would drive fine at times and then it would die and when restarting would buck, jerk, etc. and had a had time restarting. After sitting it would seem fine. I had to have my crank case heater assembly replaced and now it seems to be running fine.

My 93 SOHC 2.3l did this and I replaced coil pack housing (Actually mechanics shop replaced after testing) and it fixed problem. These engines are notorious for cracked coil pack 'housing' because of coil on plug design the housing takes alot of heat. Let us know what fixed cause it helps others looking for answers. Good luck

It is possible the torque converter clutch is staying engaged, there is a solenoid in the transmission that sticks and wont let the converter release. there is also a plastic orifice that breaks off and becomes lodged in the solenoid causing the same problem. This usually can be distinguished from an engine problem by noting whether the engine runs normally until you actually put the car in gear

The most likely cause is a dilution of the fuel/ air mixture caused by a vacumn leak. check for a hissing sound near the top center of the engine.

Stop running or stop moving? Anyway, not likely unless it's a big truck with a hydovac break system.

You can tell if you have a stall converter by observing the engine's RPM behavior during acceleration. If the engine RPM increases significantly before the vehicle begins to move, it indicates a higher stall speed typical of a stall converter. Additionally, if the car feels like it takes longer to engage or move from a stop, that could suggest the presence of a stall converter. Lastly, checking the specifications or design of your transmission can confirm whether it includes a stall converter.

Yes there is a crankshaft sensor

start the car and let it idle while the car is running unplug the mass airflow sensor if the idle does not change then the sensor is probably bad if the idle does change or the engine dies out then it is working so leave it alone cause they arent cheap.

A Chrysler Cirrus does not use a maf.

More than likely. Get the clamp fixed! When going at speed, the clamp will vibrate, and will only be half re-charging the battery (the alternator re-charges it during operation). This means that when you slow down, you may not be getting any charge to it at all. Either that, or its just not making contact with the terminal when you have slowed down.

check your mass air flow sensor