Car Starting Problems

Retrieve the code that is causing the MIL to illuminate and you will be pointed in the right direction. There are thousands of different parameters being monitored by the car's computer so it is impossible to guess which one is causing the MIL.

Any auto parts store (Autozone, Oreilly, NAPA, etc.) will connect to your OBDII port for free to retrieve the code for you, and you'll have a gearhead that may be able to give you advice and help you diagnose the problem, also for free. A garage may and a dealership WILL charge you to retrieve the code, and they sure wont tell you how to go about fixing it.

This sounds like the anti-theft mechanism. Inside the ignition switch, there's a circuit that tells the computer that the key was properly used to start the car. It's basically just a resistor that completes the circuit and the computer is looking for this after the car starts. If the resistance is not seen, the computer assumes that somebody has hotwired the vehicle and shuts the engine off. When I install remote starters on Aleros, I have to first figure out what the resistance is using a multimeter. Then a relay activated by the remote starter must break the existing security circuit and switch in the proper resistor value. If you're having a problem starting your vehicle after a remote starter has been installed, or the remote start feature does this, bring the car back to the installer and have it checked.

== == I have seen most times when there are multiple clicks and only catches once in a while, it usually is the starter. It needs replacement. Usually it's a fairly simple DIY job. You also do need to check the battery as stated above and possibly the alternator as well. If the car starts while the battery is hooked up and immediately dies when you unhook it, check your alternator. It should still have a minimal amount of power even with the battery unhooked.

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Start with the obvious. Bear with me. Does it have fuel? Did it recently run out of fuel? Is the battery charged? Are the battery cables hooked to the correct terminals? Red should be on the + and black on the -. Are all the belts tight? The alternator needs to charge the battery after each use. If all of these are fine, it could be something electronic went on it. Have a mechanic run a diagnostic test on it.

If you are certain the battery has a good charge and the solenoid is good, then your last choice is to remove the starter for a bench test. Hold it firmly on the bench and apply 12 volts from a battery charger for a second or so. Hold negative on the casing and touch pos. to the main terminal.

Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On

The first problem was a bad ignition switch. There is a possibility that something in the key circuit has gotten bad enough that it is preventing the car from starting at all. There are a couple of connections shared between the remote start and the key start.

try to see if the battery is a little low. it happened once to my dad's 1990 miata. if not, then try to see if oil is low. then, if it still won't start, then try to take it to the dealership

My first guess would be the starter selinoid. No, I don't know where it is in your vehicle. Follow the big wire back from the starter to find it. You're going to need a test light for this. Make sure there's power on the "battery" side of the selinoid, if YES, make sure there's power on the "starter" side when the key is turned to start. If NO, replace the selinoid - If YES, make sure there's power to the starter, if YES, replace the starter.

You need a battery. There's a very small chance it could be something else, but from the symptoms you describe it is more than likely a bad battery.

Dead short between ignition switch and starter solenoid trigger wire?

I have seen this problem before. It sounds like it could be the fuel pressure regulator. They are typically located on the fuel rail. If your car is blowing black smoke and missing and is hard to start, that is a good indication that it might be the problem. You can test this by getting a fuel pressure tester and hooking it to the fuel port on the fuel rail. Turn on the key (do not start) and it will build pressure. If the pressure drops off, it may be the fuel pressure regulator. It's a cheap and simple fix. A vacuum line and a bolt is all that holds them in.

First, double check to make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct order, so that the plugs fire in the correct sequence. If those are good, it may be a crankshaft/camshaft position sensor. If they (or one) lose a signal because they are worn out, the wires are bad, or the cam/crank is out of position, it will kill a running engine and won't allow it to start. The truth is, it could be one of many problems that a certified technician can correctly diagnose. However, the two suggestions I gave, along with the information you have given, are the most common problems.

Ye, it will turn over.

Look in the back of the glove compartment.

Recharge or replace battery as needed.

Try starting while wiggling gas pedal.

Check oil level.

If extremely long time:

Replace fuel and regap spark plugs.

Chances are that the battery does not have enough power to start the vehicle. The battery can be next to dead and the interior lights and some dash lights may come on, but a fully charged battery is necessary to start the vehicle. Have someone use a DC voltmeter to determine if you have the necessary voltage to start the vehicle. The battery should normally read 12.6 volts. If the vehicle has been sitting for a while, chances are it just slowly drained. This is called parasitic drain, and is usually a result of the clock keeping time, saving your radio station presets, etc. Normally, such a small parasitic drain does not affect the battery's ability to start the engine. However, if the battery was weak to begin with, then a minor parasitic drain could weaken the battery to the point that it cannot start the vehicle. First determine the current voltage of the battery. Determine how much voltage is currently in the battery (0v-12.6v). Try charging the battery and see if it holds the charge over the course of a couple days. If it does, then the battery probably has some life left in it. If it does not hold its charge very well, such as not even overnight, then you will definetily want to replace the battery as soon as possible. Hope this helps!

I have a '92 PA that would die after it warms up. I had to have the crank sensor replaced and later had the cam sensor replaced. Either of these sensors can cause this problem. The computer needs both of these signals to send the fire signal to the correct spark plug. The old distributor used to do this function. Having the error code read out will tell you if this is the problem.

There is no relay. The solonoid is on the starter.

It is part of the fuel pump module in the tank

It is part of the fuel pump module in the tank

That depends on where it's leaking out; if it's at the master cylinder, you have a bad master cylinder, if it's at the wheel cylinder you have a bad wheel cylinder if it's at a caliper... well, you get the idea.

If you know how to repair a master cylinder, wheel cylinder or caliper, you can often get by with a little savings but it's usually best to just trot down to your local auto parts retailer and get a new or rebuilt one.

Hey Teisha===If it sounds like the noise is in the engine it can be a loose spark plug or an ex manifold gasket leaking. It really has to be heard to be diagnoised. GoodluckJoe

1.Check for corrosion on the battey terminals. 2. check fusible links and cable to starter for damage and tightness. 3.If a manual transmission the clutch must be engaged. 4.If automatic transmission try starting in neutral. More info needed: does the door open buzzer or headlight buzzer work when door is open. If not then there is a battery problem. Has the car been in an accident? There is a breaker for the fuel pump that trips when bumped from impact.

2. When the timing belt broke in my car, there was a focus safety system that would not let the car turn over until that was fixed. That way the piston wont slap valve.

Reset the electronic fuel pump there are instructions on this procedure under the hood on the radiator support. it says if vehicle does not start..... Just follow instructions and it should work. __________________________________ FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump shut-off switch may have been activated. The "Fuel Reset" indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster. The shut-off switch is a device intended to stop the electric fuel pump when your vehicle has been involved in a substantial jolt. 1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. 2. Check the fuel system for leaks. 3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by pushing in the reset button. 4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and return the key to the OFF position. 5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system. Roadside emergencies The fuel pump shut-off switch is located in the passenger's foot well, behind the kick panel.