Car Starting Problems

Maybe the computer,is happening with my 98,Fuel system ok ,batt ok.

Get a standard 12v test light. Ground the clip and verify the ground by touching the positive battery terminal with the probe end. With the ignition switch turned to the run position, starting with the larger main fuse links use the probe to verify power on both sides of the fuses.

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If car won't start, either battery is dead, or starter has failed, or fuel is bad, or fuel line is blocked, or spark plug has no spark. Cannot diagnose further without more details about the symptoms, such as EXACTLY what happens when you try to start it - what lights light up? Do headlights work at normal full brightness? Does enging make any clicking sound? Does engine turn over?

Do you mean "jump start"? If so, yes- it requires a car with a good battery, and a set of jumper cables- connected the RIGHT way between the two vehicles. With older vehicle, it was possible to "push start" the car with the dead battery- but with modern electronics, and a completely dead battery, will not work.

Yes, a loose distributor can rotate so that the ignition timing for the engine is lost.

It is very possibly the ignition switch but there are certainly other possibilities as well. In any case, you'll need to learn some electrical diagnostic skills. The ignition switch appears faulty.

I did not sign in as a user. Our e-mail address is chiefelec@gpcom.net Please let me know if you have any suggestions on what might be going on! Thank You!!

Seized Engine? Flat spot on starter? Bad Starter solenoid? Loose or corroded battery cable? Bad ignition switch? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch?

Unfortuneately the most likely (only) problem is the ignition switch shorted internally If you look at the wires going into the switch you will most likely see that a black wire is melted This is a ground wire for the switch All the insulation may be bubbled or melted right off You need a switch and that wire replaced if you see this. Either way i think you need a switch

If you're certain the battery is up, and the engine runs normally after you bypass the solenoid, you need to find out which part has failed. Check the solenoid first, then the keyswitch, and finally make sure the neutral lockout is functioning properly.

most likely a loose or worn belt.

Unless your car is a diesel, they can certainly keep your car from starting if they're missing. They can also become fouled or badly worn, which, again, could keep your car from starting.

should be a witch hidden under the driver side dash near the fuse box it would be tiny like the size of the tip of your pinky finger

The crankshaft sensor is on the side of the engine behind the alternator. It is mounted close to the oil filter,

vrooom vroom?........

You can run a compression test, check for carbon monoxide in the coolant, ask the shaman to "throw the bones"... sometimes it doesn't matter what you do, the problem might not show up for as much as a few months.

If the compression is okay and you don't have carbon monoxide in the coolant, just drive it and enjoy.

Just to be clear, I don't have much confidence in the shaman.

Then your battery is still not charged. The clicking sound is the solenoid that has a little gear on it that engages with the ring gear of the engine to spin it. There is a certain amount of voltage needed to push that solenoid into the ring gear and your battery isn't putting out enough. You'll need a jump to get started and then need to consider the battery.

Sounds like it could be a bad earth, i would check the connections going to the starter and clean them up with sandpaper or similer and try that.

Bad fuel pump? Bad pump relay

You need a spark, a fuel / air mixture supply to have combustion in the combustion chamber.

Retrieve the code that is causing the MIL to illuminate and you will be pointed in the right direction. There are thousands of different parameters being monitored by the car's computer so it is impossible to guess which one is causing the MIL.

Any auto parts store (Autozone, Oreilly, NAPA, etc.) will connect to your OBDII port for free to retrieve the code for you, and you'll have a gearhead that may be able to give you advice and help you diagnose the problem, also for free. A garage may and a dealership WILL charge you to retrieve the code, and they sure wont tell you how to go about fixing it.

This sounds like the anti-theft mechanism. Inside the ignition switch, there's a circuit that tells the computer that the key was properly used to start the car. It's basically just a resistor that completes the circuit and the computer is looking for this after the car starts. If the resistance is not seen, the computer assumes that somebody has hotwired the vehicle and shuts the engine off. When I install remote starters on Aleros, I have to first figure out what the resistance is using a multimeter. Then a relay activated by the remote starter must break the existing security circuit and switch in the proper resistor value. If you're having a problem starting your vehicle after a remote starter has been installed, or the remote start feature does this, bring the car back to the installer and have it checked.

== == I have seen most times when there are multiple clicks and only catches once in a while, it usually is the starter. It needs replacement. Usually it's a fairly simple DIY job. You also do need to check the battery as stated above and possibly the alternator as well. If the car starts while the battery is hooked up and immediately dies when you unhook it, check your alternator. It should still have a minimal amount of power even with the battery unhooked.

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