Car Starting Problems

Remove the air filter and inlet duct to the throttle chamber. Starter is located top front of the transmission it is held on with 17mm bolts and one 12mm battery cable always set the steering wheel straight close the windows and sunroof before disconnecting the battery. Resetting a ABS slip light or making the sunroof or windows to open close properly afterward might cost more at the Dealership than the money your trying to save by Doing the starter your self. Those big bolts are very tight better have good wrenches.

It is a pain in the butt however: 1. disconnect battery terminal 2. raise and properly support vehicle. 3. remove mounting bolts from starter (2 in bell housing 1 front support on starter) 4. lower starter and disconnect wires from starter. 5. slide out starter towards rear of vehicle (it is very tight fit but will come out) 6. installation is reverse ( have fun!)

Sounds like the ignition switch is bad

Replace that relay that is connected to the pos batt cable; I believe that's your problem.

the teeth on the starter could be worn out or the teeth on the flywheel could be worn out ... hopefully for you its just the starter if its the flywheel you will have to pull the tranny ...

Just give me the car, dude, okay? I promise to take good care of her.

^douche bag.

if the car still has the original catalytic convertor. Starter is easy to unbolt, but will not come out until the right front exhaust springs are detached (thats the pain!!) to allow pulling the convertor down so the starter can come out on that side.

Sounds like the starter is "dragging" - happens when the bushings are worn. Can be overhauled if you are mechanicaly inclined, otherwise replace the starter.

Make sure battery and charging system are working. Are battery contacts clean and on firmly? Is battery holding a charge, not going dead after a few days of no activity? Is the alternator delivering 13 or 14 volts? Are wires to starter clean and on firmly? If yes to all, suspect starter. A starter can fail different ways: With worn internal contacts it will click but not turn over. With stuck solenoid drive, may whirr but not engage. With faulty solenoid may do nothing. Remove starter and bring to auto parts store for testing

answer would depend of type of car and the fuel system setup if it is a multipoint injection system (has multiple injectors instead of one) then the fuel rail is sitting just above the engine which would cause fuel to vaporise when engine is worm and fuel is not flowing (turned off) to combat this the fuel pressure should stay at 1 to 2 bar (14 to 28psi) for at least half an hour after the engine is turned off this is facilitated using a one way valve which is usually situated in the electric fuel pump and can be tested by rigging a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and turning the ignition on to prime it and then off to moniter the pressure drop. if it is an older vehicle with carburettors we used to have a problem with the base of the carb distorting in the heat of a turned off engine (no air flow) which was rectified using a thick rubber base gasket robb

what kind of car? could be sucurity issue, does sucurity ligth flash if equipped.gmjim its a 94 e320 6cyl. it has problem starting and no fue; preshure. but if we un hook computer let sit for min then replug it will start and we replaced computer still does it

the first thing I would check is, fuel, spark, coil, ignition module

siéra 1500

3 cylinder engine 1 2 3

4 cylinder petrol and diesel engines 1 3 4 2.

because your starting motor don´t work, maybe it is damage

Several things could cause this. Some of the possibilities are; contaminated or old fuel, no ignition (spark) or ignition timing incorrect, incorrect cam timing, problems in the fuel management or delivery system (fuel pump not working or low pressure, fuel filter clogged, bad control computer or wiring, bad injector(s) or wiring, very low or no compression, ect)

I would put on new fuel filters and use some fuel conditioner.

you will have to buy a new motor they are only 7 pound same happened to mine

Is it cranking or not cranking? It could be spark plugs that are getting old or spark plug wire problem . Your battery goes down because you try to start the engine to many time. is this a new car with electric anti corosion system this system will drain your battery. the problem is the charging system The alternator may need to be replaced. (A local mechanic or parts shop may sell you a rebuilt one and give you some money back for the old one.) It may just be that the alternator belt needs to be tightened. If you're able to turn the wheel (belt drive) on the outside of the alternator with your own hand (while the car is not running, of course), then the belt is too loose. If you have a crowbar and a wrench and a little bit of muscle, you can tighten the belt yourself.

Not knowing the year or if carb or injected ill answer both ways Carb, it is because when a car shuts off the few revolutions it makes before a full stop draws some fuel into cyl so restart takes no more fuel, after a short period the gas evaperates so need to pump pedal to start. Injected ( MPI , TBI ) It means the fuel system is leaking down pressure, this can be the fuel pump itself or can be the pressure regulator that holds pressure on return side on shut down. The reason it starts on second crank and not first is that first crank gets pressure back up( pump only runs few a few seconds at start Even if cranked for 60 seconds pump wont restat till engine starts ) then second crank accually gets fuel in cyl. You can get it primed by turning key on for 5 seconds ( NOT to start mode just so lights and such come on) turn off for 5 seconds then Start it. This will be like the second cranking when starts.

If getting spark and fuel, then it MAY be your crank position sensor. I believe it is around 1200 ohms +/-10%, but double check that number via internet or dealership. I hope this gives you a better chance. There is also a camshaft sensor, but the crankshaft sensor is usually the culprit.

the question is faulty. if a timing belt what is broken??? is jumped ??? is missing ??? is misaligned????

If it breaks yes it will not start. it usually will turn over a lot faster as well.

if misaligned or jumped making it out of time. no start to back fires when accelerating or just no power at low end speeds.

Most of the time ,it's because engine is catching air .check for a hissing noise. a soapy solution in a spray bottle .while engine is running will find where the leak is .engine sound will change when you find the spot .

Hi - Below the push button boot release is a key lock, under the lip between the number plate lights. Seems obvious but it is well hidden - I had to ring Lancaster Jaguar in Sidcup to ask where it was!

Your birthplace is exactly what the word says. It is the place you were born. The city, town, county, parish, etc where you were brought into the world.

A common problem is the alternator. If one or more of the diodes are bad it can cause a power drain. You can have your alternator tested at many of the auto parts retailers, they'll do it for free especially if they think you might buy the replacment parts from them. If that isn't it, it could be that the accessory contacts on your ignition switch have shorted and are remaining on after you turn off the key. If that's the case you'll need to replace the contacts. Last option is the possibility that someone has added after-market devices that run straight to the battery or other circuit that is energized constantly. On the other hand it could also be that your mechanic is clueless and the real problem is in the battery. When some batteries get older the plates start to drop pieces of lead sulphide. If that material builds up in the bottom of the cell sufficiently to make contact with both a positive and a negative plate, it will cause the cell to discharge rapidly. If you don't test the battery properly you can't know that a cell is shorted. When they test the charging system they also test the battery for your, so that solves your problem. Whichever it is, I'm quite surprised that the "mechanic" didn't bother to tell you which "something" is running. Isn't that HIS job?