Car Starting Problems

Are you are talking about the block heater or the heater fan. It looks like a two part question. The block heater plugs into a house outlet. The cord starts at the front bumper area and goes to the block. A element goes into the block to heat the engine coolant. To trouble shoot: Power from the house plug in a lamp. Cord from the bumper to block heater, Inspect for damage & ohm out the wires. If all checks fine the block heater maybe defective. Now for the fuse. Is it blowing out all the time & does it go to the heater fan.

Haynes manuals -- they're the best.

The starter celinoid is attached to the starter itself.

Check the charge on the battery, it may be faulty even though its not old. If the battery is charged then the starter motor may be old, brushes wear out over time.

The coefficient of friction between a tire and a wet road is LOWER than the coefficient of friction between a tire and a dry road.

It should also be noted that during a dry period, roads are covered by a thin film of dust as well as oil that has leaked from vehicles. At first the rain mixes with these and creates a very slick surface, even further reducing the coefficient of friction. After the rain has washed away some of the dust and oil the roads are slightly less slippery, but still much more so than on a dry road.

Note too that standing water can cause a tire to "Hydroplane" at high speed, with "high speed" being a variable that depends on the condition of your tires and the amount of standing water. Hydroplaning is a condition in which the tire is literally lifted off the surface of the road and rides entirely on a film of water.

Low fuel pressure.

my 97 ford probe GT does not start sorry for the mistakes

Could be the fusible link from the starter solenoid to the starter itself. Also, other fusible links are installed by the manufacturer of the vehicle to protect your entire electrical system. A wiring diagram will be a great help in finding where all you fusible links are installed.

it could be a bad fuel filter and fuel pump

Yes, one O2 sensor and it's on the exhaust manifold. It has two nuts that hold it on and has a connector which unplugs to replace it.

Remove the airbag and steering wheel, remove the torx screws from the steering housing and remove the housing, remove the screws from the signal and wiper switch, and remove the screws above the ignition switch and remove the switch. Replace the switch and replace everything in reverse.Ê

check to see if your distributor has a TFI module, if so it might be bad.

The two usual reasons a car won't start are either lack of fuel or lack of spark (ignition). Pull a spark plug (pull off the plug wire boot, then get a spark plug socket and a ratchet handle and unscrew the spark plug). Reconnect the plug wire to the spark plug and hold the metal base of the spark plug against the metal valve cover or the engine block (something grounded) while someone else cranks the engine over with the ignition switch for a few seconds. If you don't see a spark jump the gap in the plug, you have an ignition problem. If you do have a spark, it's probably either lack of fuel to the cylinders or a timing problem that is causing the problem.

If the starter is functioning properly and the engine doesn't engage, the it's ALWAYS one of the following:

# Compression # Ignition (spark) # Fuel If the engine has all three and in the proper timing and/or amount, the engine runs.

# Poor or low compression will make an engine difficult or impossible to start, and can be caused by wear, valve problems or a slipped timing belt/chain. # If spark (ignition) is not delivered to the plugs at the right time or if the spark is weak or non-existent, the engine will not run. # If too much or too little fuel is delivered, the engine will not run.

carburetor

Remove the air filter and inlet duct to the throttle chamber. Starter is located top front of the transmission it is held on with 17mm bolts and one 12mm battery cable always set the steering wheel straight close the windows and sunroof before disconnecting the battery. Resetting a ABS slip light or making the sunroof or windows to open close properly afterward might cost more at the Dealership than the money your trying to save by Doing the starter your self. Those big bolts are very tight better have good wrenches.

It is a pain in the butt however: 1. disconnect battery terminal 2. raise and properly support vehicle. 3. remove mounting bolts from starter (2 in bell housing 1 front support on starter) 4. lower starter and disconnect wires from starter. 5. slide out starter towards rear of vehicle (it is very tight fit but will come out) 6. installation is reverse ( have fun!)

Sounds like the ignition switch is bad

Replace that relay that is connected to the pos batt cable; I believe that's your problem.

the teeth on the starter could be worn out or the teeth on the flywheel could be worn out ... hopefully for you its just the starter if its the flywheel you will have to pull the tranny ...

Just give me the car, dude, okay? I promise to take good care of her.

^douche bag.

if the car still has the original catalytic convertor. Starter is easy to unbolt, but will not come out until the right front exhaust springs are detached (thats the pain!!) to allow pulling the convertor down so the starter can come out on that side.

Sounds like the starter is "dragging" - happens when the bushings are worn. Can be overhauled if you are mechanicaly inclined, otherwise replace the starter.

Make sure battery and charging system are working. Are battery contacts clean and on firmly? Is battery holding a charge, not going dead after a few days of no activity? Is the alternator delivering 13 or 14 volts? Are wires to starter clean and on firmly? If yes to all, suspect starter. A starter can fail different ways: With worn internal contacts it will click but not turn over. With stuck solenoid drive, may whirr but not engage. With faulty solenoid may do nothing. Remove starter and bring to auto parts store for testing

answer would depend of type of car and the fuel system setup if it is a multipoint injection system (has multiple injectors instead of one) then the fuel rail is sitting just above the engine which would cause fuel to vaporise when engine is worm and fuel is not flowing (turned off) to combat this the fuel pressure should stay at 1 to 2 bar (14 to 28psi) for at least half an hour after the engine is turned off this is facilitated using a one way valve which is usually situated in the electric fuel pump and can be tested by rigging a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and turning the ignition on to prime it and then off to moniter the pressure drop. if it is an older vehicle with carburettors we used to have a problem with the base of the carb distorting in the heat of a turned off engine (no air flow) which was rectified using a thick rubber base gasket robb

what kind of car? could be sucurity issue, does sucurity ligth flash if equipped.gmjim its a 94 e320 6cyl. it has problem starting and no fue; preshure. but if we un hook computer let sit for min then replug it will start and we replaced computer still does it

the first thing I would check is, fuel, spark, coil, ignition module