Car Starting Problems

My '96 Mercedes C220 has a constant beep in the dashboard and there is no lights that indicate a problem Anyone got an answer for this???

Check the rear lower end of the engine--not sure which side, follow the + battery cable

The PGM-FI (fuel system) main relay is located inside the dash above the brake pedal, mounted on the dash frame toward the driver side wall. You can see it by laying under the dash and looking up into it.

Could be flat battery - check with a good meter, it should show at least 11.9 volts at rest. Check both terminals are clean and tight. Check ground wire where it's bolted to the frame for clean and tight.

A fully charged battery will read 12.6 volts with the engine off. At 75% charge it will read 12.4 volts, at 50% it will read 12.2 volts, & at 25% charge it will read 12 volts. Any less and the battery is basically dead. Must be checked with a digital volt meter. Can also be the starter is failing.

It sounds like you have a bad shifter cable. I had the same thing happing and i had it replaced and no proble since then. GOODLUCK

The only 100% sure way to know is to remove the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store.

Probably not. Usually it's caused when fuel leaks past a dirty injector and floods the engine. Before spending a lot of money, try adding injector cleaner with each of the next couple fill-ups. or you may check if the fuel pump is ok or not. Three reasons why an engine would be hard to start when hot: (1)Air filter clogged; (2)Fault in the fuel or electrical systems; (3)Fuel not reaching the injectors.

If your engine doe NOT turn over when you turn the key (no crank), you have 3 possible problems. First is a dead battery, though this is easy enough to detect. Second is a bad electrical connection, such as a relay or solenoid that isn't properly closing. Third is a bad starter. If it is the starter, hopefully you don't have much rust on the bolts. On older Cougars (early 90's), the starter is mounted directly to the transmission, and rusted bolts can become a real pain. I'd advise that you take it to a transmission specialist from the start, and let him know what the problem is. He should be able to test the starter while still in place, and if he has to pull it, he can.

With this symptom, if you tried to jump start the car it would start. The answer was a corroded Black/Cable going to the Negative terminal of the Battery.

CHECK FUSES then try 1 & 2 immediately below this; 1. remove the air intake duct/boot just before the throttle body/intake manifold entrance and open the throttle then spray starter fluid into the intake manifold for about 3-5 seconds. 2. put the intake duct/boot back in place and try to start the car. If the car attempts to start then it is a fuel system\delivery problem - See below for possibilities. A few possibilities are; 1. the fuel pump may work but the fuel pump pressure is to low; check the fuel pressure with a pressure gage 2. no ignition/spark; some cars will not allow the fuel system to operate without igntion available- make sure there is spark. 3. fuel injectors may be bad causing the ecm (computer) to shut down. 4. bad or inoperative starting injector - this model may or may not have a starting injector. 5. throttle position sensor bad or out of adjustment. 6. bad ecm/fuel pump relay 6. ecm (computer) is bad - (this most likely isn't the problem but is a possiblility). 7. wiring problems; open or shorted wires

pull out the fuse for the alarm and that will disable the alarm then just start it up Try unlocking the drivers door with the key, there should be a switch on the back of the key cylinder to turn alarm off.

You need 4 things for an engine to run. An unobstructed air source, compression, good fuel at the right time, strong spark at the right time. You are missing one or more of those things. If the engine is spinning over real fast without any resistance, you might have no compression, which could be due to the timing belt having jumped time. You could have no fuel pressure, due to a bad fuel pump. You could have no spark due to a bad coil. You could have no injector pulse due to a bad PCM or some other problem with the engine control system. Check air intake, fuel and fuel injector pulse, spark, and compression. Find out what you are missing, and you will be able to narrow it down to what sub-system is causing the problem.

sounds like a general tune up is due, plugs are probably worn and not sparking as hot as when new.

call around to auto part stores if you have a autozone near you they can check them for free

Check your fuel filter

i had the same problem there is no getting around it you have to get it towed to the dealer ship yes they suck :( and they have to reset the comp. this happened to me when i had a street mechanic fix my heater core. even if everything is set up right, and your missing a few vital screws it will cause the theft light to come on because its missing pieces( screws)

the firing Order is 1,3,4,2 (No 1 at flywheel endof Engine)

Lower front of the engine.

The starter is right in front on the SL2.

What vehicle is this on? Fuel injected or carburator? Engine size?

There are so many things it could be� so lets keep it simple (at first)� Are you sure there is gas in the car, if so then pull off the fuel line and make sure there is fuel coming out of it. If there is not then you could have a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump. Is there spark? Pull off one of your spark plug wires and stick you finger in it and have a friend turn over the ignition, if you dance around and scream in pain then you are getting spark. If not then you could have problems with the cap and rotor, the coil, the crank position sensor or the ignition module. These are the most simple things to check, but you question is very vague and your problem could be almost anything, from something stupid to broken timing belt to your motor having to little compression to start. Crankshaft Sensor Or Camshaft Sensor.

The coil packs are located on the driver side of the engine. Trace the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. There is one per cylinder. Check connection at pack (shoudl be a 4 prong connector) If you have a no spark conditon you will have to use and OBD diagnostic to search for additional problems

It USUALLY means you need new front disc brake pads; there is a "squeaker" on the brake pad backing that contacts the disc intermittently. When you apply the brakes, if the squeaking goes away, or becomes quieter, that is what you need to replace. Most disc brake pad sets run $13 - $40 per set (right and left). If the squeak is always on, you need to see the mechanic. If you just need pads, any auto mechanic student you may know can do a fine job for you real cheap!

your car may need a new thermostat