Car Stereos and Speakers

Not to the outputs. A band-pass equalizer works on input signals. To put it simply: if your stereo is the source of the sound, you would have to open the stereo up with schematics of its electronics in hand and find a suitable place to "pop in" an equalizer. If your stereo is only taking a signal from some other device and amplifying it (in essence doing the job of an amplifier with external signal source), put the equalizer between the source and the stereo.

Please note that an antenna is NOT an "external source" - the radio frequencies are decoded INSIDE the stereo, and only then produce a valid "input signal" - all within the electronics of the stereo.

do you have the harness that came with the radio? if so here are the color codes: yellow = 12v constant or battery power

red = 12v switched or ignition power

black = 12v ground or chassis ground

blue = power antenna turn on

blue/white = amplifier turn on

white = left front speaker +

white/black left front speaker -

gery = right front speaker +

grey/black= right front speaker -

green= left rear speaker +

green/black left rear speaker -

purple = right rear speaker +

purple/black= right rear speaker -

lt blue= cell phone mute input

The joint star

try the KICKER SOLO X 10000 Watt SQUARE 18" SUBWOOFER! it's HUGE and loud

It's best to install new speakers and your own amplifier. The stock system in these cars might say JBL but it's junk and you will see this when you remove one of the speakers.

If you want to use existing speakers and amp no need to bypass amp. All that is needed is 12 volt switched power source to the amp through the harness(blue wire). Just completed on my 91 mercury grand marquis.

this will all depend on what sub and what amp you want. along with how good of job you want done. you can do it your self if you purchese the sub, amp, wireing kit, and buying a sub bow or makeing one your self. it you want to be under a seet or blend in with your truck you need to eather buy a special box or make one that fits.

You cannot make a 16 ohm speaker into an 8 ohm speaker. You would need to replace the voice coil. You can, however, put two 16 ohm speakers in parallel, and the equivalent impedance would be 8 ohms. The only remaining issue is frequency response, and that's a factor of speaker and enclosure design, so best is to use the exact speaker as originally designed.

For the Sony CDX-L510X car stereo, the typical wire color codes are as follows:

• Yellow: Battery (constant power)
• Red: Ignition (switched power)
• Black: Ground
• Gray: Front right speaker positive
• Gray/Black: Front right speaker negative
• White: Front left speaker positive
• White/Black: Front left speaker negative
• Purple: Rear right speaker positive
• Purple/Black: Rear right speaker negative
• Green: Rear left speaker positive
• Green/Black: Rear left speaker negative.

Always consult the specific wiring diagram for your vehicle and stereo for accurate connections.

I have, I have even used the output for the input of the same amp, so that you only run one RCA cable to the amp, then run the output back to the other input, and it runs 4 channels..

:o)

Every place I've looked has false info for what color wires are in the door itself! It's said that there are yellow and brown wires, not true..... the rear right positive is dark blue, and the rear left positive is light blue.

Amplifier instalation is the same as any-- power wire, ground wire, wires to subwoofer. The "tricky part is taping into existing wires to get the required input signal and the remote signal to switch the amp on and off.

I have a 10" sub and an amp in my 2004 Chevy silverado. My dad got it for me but he also had to by a different stereo. I don't know if just the chevy stereo wouldn't work with it or if it's all stock stereos.

sagging right rear spring

instead of hooking up your amps remote wire to your CD player, i would run the wire to your fuse box and wrap the striped wire around a fuse for something like the windshield wipers or acc or something that turns on when you want your amp on. and then put the fuse back in and then it's the same as plugging it into your CD player, except not as much work

I just put mine in and they were 5 1/4.

This information can be found in your owner's manual. Don't have one, get one. Dealer or salvage yard is a source.

I would recommend best buy or something such as that or if u have an audio component shop locally Im sure theyll slap it in for you

The speaker impedance does not match the amplifier's specified speaker impedance.

I just did this today, for a manual-window crank system.

Tools you'll need: Two pairs of pliers, Flat-head screwdriver, star screwdriver, small pry-bar, an old rag, drill and smaller metal drillbit (if you bought 6 1/2" speakers), electrical tape and wire-cutters (depending if your new speakers have a two-wireplastic connector, or if they need to be spliced in.

REMEMBER: Always remove your battery's negative-terminal connector before doing any electrical work on your car. All you need is two pairs of pliers. I found a pair of Vice-Grip and Needle-nose worked best to power through the rust that had accumulated on the nut and bolt. It may take a little effort, but you'll eventually work it off. Just tuck it in behind the back of the battery, and make sure it won't pop out and touch the terminal at any point.

1) pull on the inside door handle. Behind that there is a torx screw. You can actually remove this easily with a flat-head screwdriver.

2) where the small arm-rest is, there's a small alcove, and inside is a star-head screw.

3) Using your rag, shimmy the edge between the handle and the small circular guard. Using a see-saw motion, work your way around the handle. BE CAREFUL. What you're waiting to happen is for the rag to catch on a small 'cir-clip' that fits into a slot on the handle, and clamps it against the small gearshaft.

http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/windows/imagesImage05.jpg That's a good image for you to understand what it looks like. Now keep a watchful eye out for where the cir-clip may go, cause you don't want to lose that. If you actually go slowly enough, you'll just have it pop off the handle slightly, and you won't have to scramble around looking for it.

Once the cir-clip pops off, you just have to pull the handle straight out. There should be very little resistance.

4) When you've removed the two screws and the window-crank, take your pry-bar and GENTLY work your way around the door, popping out the small white clips that hold the plastic panel to the frame. You'll have one at the top-side corners, one at the bottom-side corners, and three along the bottom.

Now your doorwill only be held up by two things. The first is where is sits beside the window, in a designed groove. There's a small metal clip holding the rubber and plastic together. To separate these, you just have to pull the door panel upwards while holding down the rubber liner. Not difficult.

5) DO NOT pull the door panel away yet. If you look behind the panel, there will now only be the door-handle connector rod that is hanging on to the panel. You'll see a small plastic clip that appears to be encircling the rod, but it doesn't. It's just a U-clip, and the part that faces the door is open. Just push it towards the outside of the door, and it will swing free. Now just pull up gently where the rod connects to the panel, and the panel will now be free.

6) Remove the three screws areound your stock speakers. Once those are free, it will fall out, so be careful. Remove the plastic connector clip that holds the wiring to the speakers.

As a note, in my own 98 Neon, there was only a brown and a Red wire, and a Green wire. The RED wire is the Negative, and the GREEN wire is the Positive. I was expecting the wires to be different colours on each side, but this was not the case.

7)If you bought a 6 1/2" speaker set for the front, you'll have to drill new holes for the speaker to attach to. Really, I doubt you'll be able to find 7" speakers anyways. So hold your new speaker against the hole, and make sure all the slots for screws will be on the metal. Use one of the old screws just to scratch the paint, and mark off where you'll drill the new holes. PLEASE make sure the drill bit you're using is slightly smaller than the diametre of the screws you're using. >.<

8) After you've drilled your new holes, connect your speaker wires to the stock wiring using either a twist-and-tape method, or the electrical-connectors. After those are connected, make SURE that the wires are neatly stored in the door-frame, and as compact as you can make them. Remember that the manual-window cranks might catch one part of the wire and rip the connection. Then you'll have to do this all over again just to re-attach the wire. (happened to me, actually. Hind-sight is 20/20)

9) Screw the new speakers into the door.

10) Now, if you failed to remove all the white plastic plugs, remove them from the frame now, and clip them into their proper slots on the panel. You can just use a pair of the pliers from when you dis-connected the battery's negative-terminal connector. Try not to squish them when you're pulling them out.

11) In this order now: re-connect door-handle rod and plastic U-clip, fit the door-lock button through the hole at the top, and make sure the top of the panel is resting on the designed space for it next to the window.

12)Give the panel a quick smack from the top to push it into the designed space in the rubber. Now you just have to push the white plastic bits into the holes. An easy smack over each of them will suffice.

13)Take the window-crank handle and cir-clip. You'll have to push the cir-clip into the little slots on the handle. I found it easiest to take the cir-clip in the needle-nose pliers, and push it on like that. Now place the circular-plastic bit over the gearshaft, and place the handle onto the gearshaft. A quick smack will be enough to set the handle on properly.

14) Put back the torx-screw behing the inner door handle, and the other star-screw int he arm-rest alcove.

And congrats! Now do the other door. For me, a complete amatuer, it took me 35 minutes for my first door, and 25 minutes for my second door. So if you follow this, you should be able to get both doors done in about 1-1 1/2 hours. Just remember that after you complete the second door, you've got to re-connect the battery's negative terminal connector.

-Doug Elliott, 1998 Dodge Neon, Aug 06/08 entry

where do you install a new flasher for a 1991 Acura Legend?"

a 400 watt 2 channel amp should do fine. all you need to do is bridge the sub when it is being hooked up

Marginal utility A+

Zero

the impedance of a speaker is a characteristic that is has. A 4 ohm speaker will always have a 4 ohm impedance and it cannot be changed.

If 2 speakers of 4 ohm impedance are wired in parallel, then the total impedance will be 2 ohms. Similarly, if you wire 4 speakers together, the total impedance will be 1 ohm.

Wiring a 2 ohm speaker to an amplifier rated to drive a 1 ohm load should work without any problems but expect the total power output to be somewhat lower than with a 1 ohm load.

Phoenix gold makes there own amps, well atleast they design there own amps, with the help of outside consultants. Manufacture and production are in Korea