Check Engine Light

There is an OBD I plug somewhere on the vehicle.

Either the bulb is bad or a previous owner disconnected it because it would not go out with the vehicle running.

hOW DO YOU GET TO THE BULB??

The check engine light is on because there is a problem with the system. Until the problem is corrected the light will remain on even if you reset it. Most code readers can reset the light but you will need to fix the problem first. Have your local auto parts store read the code(s) set to help you determine what is wrong.

You can get the trouble code if your check engine light is on as follows: 1) On the passenger side below the glove compartment, remove the plastic cover that would be near your right foot if you were sitting in the seat. 2) There is a grey or blue plug in there with two wires running to it but it isn't connected to anything. You need to take a wire (or a paperclip) and connect the two terminals of the plug. 3) Turn your key on without starting the car. The check engine light will flash the trouble code. example: 4 - would be four quick flashes 14 - would be one long flash followed by four quick flashes. If you have multiple trouble codes, there will be a pause in between them.

sounds like you have air in your engine coolant. you should have a bleeder valve somewhere near the thermostat housing metric size 12 nut , with engine off and cool remove radiator cap and loosen bleeder bolt add coolant to radiator until solid stream of coolant comes out bleeder then tighten bolt repeat if necessary, until all air is removed. hope this helps

that might be it but from my experience with hondas and especially preludes it is either the IAC valve located on the front of the intake manifold or the FIT valve located on the bottom of the throttle bodie. if you unplug the IAC it should be a very fast idol up and down that means that's not ur problem. if that's not it next check the FIT. there will be 2 coolant lines running to the valve and 2 10mm bolts holding it on. pull the FIt off and there will be 2 8mm bolts on the end will also have a Philips head. use the *mm to take the plate of and there will be a big white ring with a silver dome shaped piece of metal in the middle take a big screw driver and stick it in the slot on the white ring, and tighten the ring back down. over time these things come loose and will cause idol surge. preludes are nitorious for it.

29s here the TCS button (traction control system) is for you to enable or disable the computer controlled slip-differental or simply put the thing that senses if one of the drive wheels are spinning faster than the other(usually do to the other wheel slipping). the system when engauged will slow the other wheel or wheels down to match the slow so that you dont get an sliding affect (most noticable in snow and ice). if the light is on and you cant turn it off by pressing the button it usually means that your vehicle sensed a problem somewhere in that system during its pre-ignition check and it will automatically disable it to prevent a malfunction. as for possible causes pherhaps a speed sensor malfunction or internal trans problem a diagnostic would be ness to determine or you could try reseting your cars memory by removing your battery cables for a few minutes. beware some cars have a self locking radio that will require a code to unlock.

It's indicating a problem with the ABS. You'll need a code reader to figure out what's wrong. BTW, brake code readers are usually different than engine code readers. As with most ABS systems the wire is broken at the point of the wheel when it goes into the body of the hub. With constant turning back and forth the wire finally breaks, causing the light to come on and losing any ABS function. The brakes still work fine but not the pulsating effect from the ABS. You might try to have someone string another wire but I would suspect that it will break again in the future. Good luck.

I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 4x4 and it was stalling for no apparent reason, I finally gave up and changed out the ecu (the computer). If your having the same issue a quick fix is to turn your ignition off, then back on and leave it on, disconnect the wiring harness from the ecu unit, then plug them back in.(The ecu unit is on the passenger side firewall under the hood). You will see your gauges come back on. If the gauges are not on, you have to redo the process. JWFryer

There are a large number of reasons for why the check engine light would come on. Most are minor, simple things, such as not having the gas cap properly secured. Others may be more serious, such as having a transmission going bad. The only way to know for sure is to hook a code reader to the vehicle, which can scan the car's computer for error codes. You do not need to go to a dealer or a garage to do this. Just drive to your local Auto Zone or similar auto parts dealer. They will hook a code reader to the car for free and tell you what error code(s) the computer is producing. They will have a book inside that tells you what the code means. They will also ask if you would like to erase the code from the computer, which will turn off the check engine light. It will probably come back after 50-75 miles, if the problem has not been corrected.

Possibly a wheel sensor, VSS or other problem. Check the computer diagnostic code to find out what's going on.

Have a look here;

http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/The_Exhaustive_Database_of_OBDI_and_OBDII_Engine_Codes.htm

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

Gas Cap is not on tight, or the seal leaks and you need to replace the cap.

it is possible for a bad battery to make check engine light come on. if the battery wont hold a charge and the car is running mostly off the alternator current. the car usually will idle fine, but when you go to drive it the gauges will do strange things and the car wont run very well when you step on the gas. take it to advance and they will ck the battery for free, if the car will run long enough take the whole car, and they can scan it for stored codes and give you a general idea whats wrong with it

there are two senors that could be bad or installed wrong. if you have had your tranny removed for work or a new one installed the relay wire can be put in the wrong way it installs both ways and the rams have it go in a certain direction, also there is a bellhousing sensor that tells the engine what to do thay causes issues if bad.

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle.

Generally, a check engine light is lit when there is a problem in the emissions or somthing that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions.

If the check engine light is flashing a misfire has been detected

In pa it will pass an inspection

A flashing check engine light means that an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected . You can drive it in for repair , just avoid any rapid acceleration

or deceleration because you can damage the catalytic converter

P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)

You use the computer... current versions of Cummins Insite are backwards compatible with older engines... you'd need that, and either an Inline or NexIQ diagnostic connector with the J1772 connection.

A check engine light flashes when an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected . You need to have the vehicle scanned for any trouble codes to help

diagnose and then repair the problem . You can drive the vehicle in for repair ,

just avoid any rapid acceleration or deceleration to avoid damaging the

catalytic converter

Disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for 2 minutes will reset the check engine light, but if the problem that caused it to turn on originally still exists, it will come on again.

That requires a scan tool.

P0442 = EVAP Emission Control System Leak (small).

Fix the leak and the light will go away. Could be as simple as a loose or defective fuel cap.