Chevy 305

you did not say if was carb but if so spray pump in the carb is a good place to start

without swaping heads or getting head work done your looking at approximatly 400 hp depending on the cam and intake and carb match.

If you are asking about the water temp, older ones were usually 180, newer ones were 195. If you are asking about the exhaust gas temp, 1350 is safe.

Remove everything in front of the timing cover. Loosen the oil pan. Remove the timing cover. Replace the chain and gears by lining up the dots on the old gears and installing the new gears with the same alignment. Clean everything real good and put it all back together.

260 HP and 330lb. tq. on the LT1 in the LS Caprice

You will have to look on the carb and get the numbers on it and then go to the Edelbrock website.

You can go to auto zone and borrow one of their compression tools, it screws into where the spark plug goes and reads compression as the motor turns over. You will need the specs for that particular motor which i am sure they can provide for you.

Most auto parts stores sell a kit that includes an air fitting adapter for the spark plug hole, an over-center tool to compress the spring, and a set of instructions. You'll need the kit, an air compressor, a set of seals, and a couple hours of your time.

That would be the 4L60E... that is what MUST be put back in it too.

How much do you want to spend?...the possibilities are endless but if you just looking for some lower cost upgrades to get a little more performance out of your 305 then adding Headers, K&N air filter, and myabe a better ignition system would be a good first step.....also a complete engine tune up fuel filter, spark plugs, etc

firing order on the cap is as follows, with the number 1 cylinder at top dead center the rotor under the cap will be pointing in the direction of a post on the cap, that post will be your number 1, then clockwise around the cap will be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

no

The word 'vortec' is the name of the cylinder heads used in Vortec Model engines in the year 96'+ The engines that use the Vortec cylinder heads are the 4.3L Vortec, 5.0L Vortec, 5.7L Vortec, and 8.1L Vortec. They were only put on Gen I small blocks. If they are any other size Chevy engines and still retain the Vortec name then it's purely a marketing name, the same goes is it is later than a Gen I engine. For example the new 4.2L I6 from GM retains the name Vortec, but it does not actually use Vortec heads as these heads were only made for OHV engines, and the I6 is an OHC engine. The Vortec heads are based on the LT1 and LT4 head after they were discontinued along with their reverse flow cooling design. It is simply an effect made in the head similar to a vortex to better atomize the fuel and air intake charge when entering the combustion chamber, it is not a different type of motor.

NO, Its a Honda motor.

No.

Practicall forever. I tore down my 87 305 at 100,000 miles and there was practically no wear at all, just some dried up valve seals.

im pritty sure it goes to your dash panel i had hooked my pro comp tach to that one.

If the transmission has a vacuum modulator you may have connected the wrong vacuum line from the carb. Otherwise, check the downshift linkage connected to the accellerator. After you've done those things, if it's still having problems, ask again. or vaccume leak

305 is the total cylinder(s) displacement volume measured in cubic inches. Newer and non-US engines are often measured in liters, or cubic centimeters for smaller engines like in motorcycles. The larger the number, the larger the engine.

Chevy made the 305, Oldsmobile made a 307v8 that was in the 1985 toronado. dextron fluid is what you want and if you have a leak it is probably pan gasket or maybe front pump seal on tranny-my front punp seal started leaking on my 1983 toronado at 300,000 miles with a 307

Advertised horsepower is....160Hp @ 4400 RPMs.

It could be your off a tooth with your distributor

.045

well if its a 1986 and back it is probaly because you have to press the accelarator all the way to the floor before you start it. that way the clutch can get set. if that ain't the problem then u might want to take it to the shop.

Could be the needle and seat is sticking, or maybe the ignition timing is way off?

top dead center for cyl. #1 is when the notch on the crank lines up exactly with "0" on the timing cover. if you have the upper timing cover off, the marks on the cam gears should be up and in line with the marks on the metal plate behind the gears. if all those things are lined up, the engine has cylinder #1 at TDC of the compression stroke. to set the distributor at this point, find where the #1 plug wire is. trace its location down to the distributor body and mark on the distributor EXACTLY where the electrode is. (you need to be able to see where its supposed to be because you cant install the distributor with the cap on) now remove the dist. cap. before installing the distributor, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise just a little to line up the notch on the crank to the 10 deg. mark. now install the distributor so when its fully seated, the rotor points directly at the mark you made on the distributor. (you may have to remove and remesh the gears a few times to make this work, you also have flexibility with the built in adjustment on the dist. itself) this will be very close to correct ignition timing. after the engine is running it should be checked with a light.

Its EASY! just connect the (usually green) wire to the negative post on the coil. Hook up the power wires and the illumination wire and ground for the tach wire and ur done its easy!